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Old October 10th 05, 04:16 AM
Sluggo
 
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Thanks for the reply, David.
I've pretty much decided to rent a tiny "track hoe" and dig
down to the hardpan, to make sure it's not just some rocks
I can remove... assuming the hardpan is, in fact, there, I'm
going to just go with whatever depth I can get, and add about
20% to the total amount of concrete the mfr stated....and also
do "overkill" on the rebar. I have both the original "T" base
the tower was mounted on, as well as a brand-new one the
fellow-ham I got it from gave me...concrete here in FL is rapidly
approaching the cost of solid gold, "IF" you can get it,
so, no room for mistakes...
He also gave me the bolts that went with the new base, abt 3'
long.... I *think* the bolts are UST items, everything else is.

Thanks for your reply; this isn't the only place I've asked the
question... and it's like pulling teeth to get a response worthy
of consideration...

Best 73,
de Sluggo


On Sat, 08 Oct 2005 22:48:34 GMT, "David Thompson"
wrote:

Either will worK OK. The main point is to get the three base pins in the
correct position and vertical. The original TX-472 came with a plywood
template with a hole for each pin. Place that on the wood surrounding the
hole. My last hole was close to 4 X 4 X 7.

If you don't have the 36 inch base pins with the bottom in a L (total length
is 42") you have two choices. You can get a new set from US Tower
(try to het HRO to order for you) or get 1" galvanized universal bolt
(probably have to order from a hardware store or Mcmaster-carr) and have the
bottom 6" bent at a right angle.

I have moved my tower 4 times and have had good luck with the universal
bolt.

73 Dave K4JRB

"Sluggo" wrote in message
.. .
I've got a TX-472; the problem is that at this QTH there is a
limestone hardpan at about 5' depth. The original engineering
drawing calls for a base of 4X4X7' deep. The latest drawing,
available in .pdf form from their website, now calls for
5X5X6.5'.

I'm hoping somebody here has run into a similar problem
and can provide dimensions; UST says their engineer
can draw it up, but for $300 or so. Needless to say, cheaper
or preferably is always better. I can afford to send 'em
the $ I bought the tower used, it's not like they "owe" me,
but if I *have to* spend the bucks, I might be inclined to
see if a local PE with the appropriate skills could do it,
just in case there ever were an issue with permitting, etc.,
although I definately don't think that will happen, no permits
req'd in this county for amateur towers below 200' at this time.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

73,
Sluggo

(the email address in the headers is bogus, email to
jrandy AT usa DOt Com if necessary)