Nope. I got it, but I see your point. The issue I was thinking of was the
fact that the hot air "pre-heat" will still take longer than a high
heat-capacity tip, thus allowing more opportunity (time) for the dielectric
to soften and deform if it isn't held well, without stress applied. I think
RG-8 size is probably less of a problem. RG-58 tends to easily allow the
center conductor to travel if given the opportunity.
My hot plate also only "warms" the ceramic so, when touched with the iron
for the heat-to-solder phase, it doesn't do that almost imperceptible
TINK! from the almost invisible crack across the ceramic due to an all to
large temp gradient.
How long do you take in the warming phase before doing the actual
heat-to-solder phase?
I have a professional resistance (dental brace) soldering machine ( by
K9PGN - SK) and it is considered tops on methods...by some, of course.
73, Steve, K9DCI
"Ian White G/GM3SEK" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:
Very good Ian.. I shold have remembered this. A good way to solder
ceramic
substrated PA modules, as well. I have a hot plate.
However, with the PL259, you may have an issue with the coax dielectric
melting.
Or the PL259 dielectric. I see mostly cheapies
selling @ hamfests - Teflon's OK, though, no?.
I think you may have the wrong impression of this. It isn't the same as
using hot air or a hotplate to do the actual soldering.
In this case you're only using the hot-air gun to give the connector
body a moderate temperature boost of maybe 100-150C. It's still the iron
that melts the solder - the difference being that you can now use your
regular 25/45W iron.
The worst that happens with solid polyethylene dielectric is that it
softens; but then it hardens again. If the coax dielectric melts and
runs, you've heated the whole thing way too much, and for way too long.
The dielectric inside the plug is even less of a problem. If it doesn't
melt when you solder the center pin, it will also handle moderate
heating of the connector body.
So in practice there aren't any problems.
"Ian White G/GM3SEK" wrote in message
...
Highland Ham wrote:
"F8BOE" wrote in message
...
Hello,
It may sound funny, but that's why I never used a soldering gun and
perhaps
never will... My 25W JBC with 0.8 and 1.2 mm tips is quite fine for
electronic components and connector soldering.
You should be the one who takes an 18 wheeler to pick up a beer
pack.
Shouldn't you? Perhaps a Mig welder could do the connector job...
Hi!
I hope you'll never mount connectors for other Hams without any
serious
DC
and HF shortcut tests.
100W+ soldering irons are pretty good for plumber jobs or for
desoldering
fast and clean, but definitely not for your aim.
73 de F8BOE Olivier ...-.-
For 'high power' soldering , I use a butane (cigarette lighter) gas
soldering iron with kathalytic burner.
Temperature can be adjusted by changing gas flowrate .
I use an iron made in Ireland ,make Portasol .High power tip/burner
can
do
up to 100 watts which is more than adequate to solder (PL259) plugs.
Also
very suitable to make small enclosures from scrap printed circuit
board
Very handy also for outdoor use .....since the tool is
self-contained.
Nowadays there are a number of makes to choose from.
I would never use an electric soldering gun.
Neither would I. A normal small iron can be used for soldering large
objects, if they are pre-heated with a hot-air ("paint stripper") gun.
To solder a PL259, for example, pre-heat the plug body with the gun
until it's good and hot, but still some way below the melting point of
solder. Then put the gun down, and switch to your regular 25/45W iron
for the actual soldering. The solder will now melt quickly and easily.
Try it - it's so much easier than using a monster iron or an electric
soldering gun.
--
73 from Ian G/GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
--
73 from Ian G/GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek