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getting bit by my FT-101EE chassis
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December 1st 05, 10:56 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors
Chuck Harris
Posts: n/a
getting bit by my FT-101EE chassis
wrote:
Okay, I fail to understand.
Formerly, the 2-wire cord was connected to pins 2 and 4 of the Yaesu
connector. These I assume correspond to the +hot and -hot of the 120V
input winding to the step up transformer, leaving the ground floating.
I looked at my 3-wire cord and determined that my hot wires were the
black and white ones for the 3-wire cord, and that neutral (chassis
ground) was green. So I connected wall ground through ground line of
the cord to chassis ground pin of the plug, leaving the hot connections
unchanged.
Is there something I should be doing different?
Thanks,
The Eternal Squire
Hi Squire,
The black wire is called Line, or we can call it hot+
The white wire is called neutral, or we can call it hot-
The green wire is the safety ground, and it goes to pretty
much any screw on a permanent part of the metal chassis.
(eg. don't use a cover screw, if you can avoid it.)
Technically, the green wire is supposed to have a crimped on
lug that is a closed circle, rather than a fork. This is
so that if the screw loosens, it won't fall off right away.
If the FT101 doesn't have markings for line and neutral, it is
usually a good idea to make sure that the line (black) goes to
the fuse. If Yuasu did things correctly, the other side of the
fuse should go to a switch, or relay contact.
[Note, if the fuse is one of the type with a screw in, or
bayonetted cap, the side of the fuse that goes closest to the
power line should be the hidden center pin. This prevents
you from getting zapped when you change the fuse. I have seen
a lot of manufacturers get this wrong.]
-Chuck
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