Dave Platt wrote:

In article ,
kf4tun wrote:

Where does one buy aluminum solder?

See http://www.rcfaq.com/answers/engines/solderalum.htm for some
suggestions. It's definitely available.

I've even heard people report that they've been able to solder
reliably to aluminum using a combination of ordinary 64/40 solder,
activated rosin flux, and a bit of trickery involving a dentist's
pick. The trick is this: flux the joint well, heat thoroughly, apply
some solder (it'll bead up and won't stick). Then, take the dentist's
pick, and while continuing to heat the solder and junction, scrape the
pick _through_ the bead of molten solder and scratch the surface of
the aluminum underneath (naturally, the pick has to be hot enough that
it doesn't cause the solder to congeal).

The scratching action breaks up the layer of oxide on the surface of
the aluminum. If the molten solder is lying right on the metal, it
(and the remnants of the flux) will exclude oxygen long enough to
allow the solder to fuse with the aluminum.


Tin a file and use that to do the scratching. Works for bigger
stuff. Makes a better contact. Seal the joint from the weather
or you may get bad electrolytic corrosion at the joint.

vy 73

Andy, M3ABC