On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 11:43:03 GMT, Russ wrote:

Remember that a right-angle bend is best served by 2, 45 degree bends
with a short straight section between them. This will make pulling
cable much easier. A "pull-box" at corners is a good idea as well but
environment-resistant (not "proof", that's not possible!) pull-boxes
aren't cheap or easy to find.

If you are using PVC it's fairly easy to make a pull box. Use a ' Y'
and a 45 to make each 90 degree bend. (They also make a straight
through with a 45 off one side.) Then use a cap and short piece of
pipe for the "blind side, or pull side". As you are pulling right
out of the 'Y' it is darn near a straight pull. Pull up into the 'Y'
.. Then feed the "fish tape" in from the next pulling point and pull
on.

Once past a pull point you can have an assistant either pushing the
cables toward the inside radius of the bend, squirting in wire soap,
or both. If the bundle is pulling hard just a light tap with a rubber
mallet handle can work like magic.

When finished, take a pipe/conduit cap and glue it to a short length
of conduit of the proper size. Liberally grease the end that goes
into the 'Y' and push it in as far as it will easily go.

It may not be water proof, but it can be close to it.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Russ, who is responsible for a lot of cable-pulling through conduit

On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 06:19:43 -0400, wrote:

Roger, just what is that white loamy stuff around the base of your tower
aside from ALL the coax? You need to show us a photo of the tower and
what you have hanging on it. It that sand that has blown up, opps, that
not sand. Your call tells me your in the northeast. So it must be
snnnnnow. I got COLD just looking at it. Have a nice warm day.
Marylou, N"5"XXX.

Roger Halstead wrote:

On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 21:14:06 -0400, "Tarmo Tammaru"
wrote:


"Roger Halstead" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 20:39:15 GMT, yea right wrote:
You might need to use some wire pulling soap (the gooey yellow stuff)
to push the LMR-400 through, but the stuff is stiff enough I would
expect it to go through fine.

It t takes a good can to two cans to get a cable through my 4 inch
conduit now that it has so many cables in it. The yellow stuff is
easy to clean up

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)

Roger,

If you are going to the trouble of using some kind of conduit, and assuming
it comes in 10 foot lengths, why not just push it through one piece at a
time? That is, push the coax through the pieces of pipe before you join the
pipes together. Besides, LMR400 is pretty stiff.

In my case I have 75 feet horizontal with two 45 bends at each end and
a 3 foot rise at the tower and 86 feet horizontal into the basement.
Getting more into that takes lots of soap and one hefty snake and it
still gets hung up at times.

http://www.rogerhalstead.com/cablebox.htm
There are (I'd have to go count to be sure now), 7 runs of LMR 400, 2
runs of RG-6 for the UHF TV antennas, One does everything cable to the
C/Ku band dish with rotor and polarization, two 3/8ths inch rotor
cable with one used for the rotor and the other for the remote antenna
switch.

With a single run of LMR 400 in 3/4 inch, I think pushing it through
one at a time would work fine. Although for no more than 20 or 30
feet...probably twice that you could easily push one run through the
full length. I'd guess you could push it through far longer runs than
that.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)
Tam/WB2TT