In article t3ali.3392$Y_3.570@trnddc04, "Woody"
wrote:

Well.. a million thanks for that. Quite a cool history lesson as well. So
now I'm looking for an SEA tuner... LOL...

Listen, that all makes perfect sense but just to clarify, a.) now I know why
that triton did so poorly when tested. We calc'd 1/2 wavelength for the
longwire, and b.) Again, for continuity and clarity of this thread for
future surfers...... what then, considering our discussed auto-tuners, would
be the optimal length for a longwire that would be used for amateur/MARS,
3-30MHz?
Pick 1/2wavelength on say 2.8Mhz and just cut it? Or calc 1/2wavelength on
the lowest and add 5% or some arbitrary odd number??
Which plan will offer the least chance of dropping a 1/2wl further up the
band on a desired frequency?
thanks,
Woody


What we did, is to try and have a Longwire with a 1/4 Wave Point near
the lowest Operating Frequency like for the 2006Khz Alaska Private
Fixed Frequency, then calculate the Natural 1/2 Wave Point for that
Wire, then adjust the 1/4 Wave Length, SHORTER, until the 1/2 Wave Point
DeadBand (2.5% or so) was in a part of the speectrum the Station wasn't
Licensed for, Marine and Alaska Private Fixed have specific Channels,
and Bands in the MF/HF Spectrum, and it isn't to hard to move the
DeadBand to a nonused portion of the Spectrum. For the HAMS, that want
a "Do everything, cover the whole Dc to Light Spectrum, with one
Longwire Tunter", the answer is "Design and Build your own Dam Tuner
with an integrate Longwire Switch and put up Multiple lengths of wire",
because there isn't a product out there, that I am aware, of that does
this, YET....

Bruce in alaska
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add a 2 before @