Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Bryan wrote:
There are many ways to install the 83-1SP/PL-259 plugs. The
instructions given on the Amphenol website
(http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf) will
show the basics. In addition to what Tam says (use LOTS of soldering
iron/gun heat, and get in/out fast), I found a way to solder the plugs
that have nickel plating on the connector body.

Nickel doesn't like to solder worth a darn, and it will take lots of
heat to burn through it. By the time you do, the cable dielectric (and
possibly the insulator on the cheaper plugs) will turn to mush. It's
worse with foamed polyethylene vs solid polyethylene coaxial cable.
Before assembling the plug onto the cable, remove the plating on the
inside circumference of the plug. A small round file, X-acto knife, or
1/8" drill bit will do the trick.

An even better way is to file *across* the holes, cutting the brass body
down to two thin feather edges which are easier to solder.

Even better is to do both. Removing the plating inside the hole will
promote the flow of solder across the junction of connector body to shield,
which is what we want.

My soldering "weapon of choice" is a Weller #8200 100/140W unit.

For anyone who doesn't already have a large iron, I'd recommend buying
an inexpensive hot air gun instead.

If you use the hot air gun to pre-heat the connector body, your existing
25W iron can handle the soldering part.

Preheating the connector is a technique I've used, when I didn't have a
large iron handy.

Another use for the hot air gun is with heat-shrink tubing, so it's $20
well spent. The only risk is that someone may ask you to strip paint
with it.
--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Bryan WA7PRC