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Gene Fuller · February 25th 08, 05:38 PM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna

wrote:
On Feb 24, 11:37 am, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:
"David G. Nagel" wrote in odigy.net...

Locate a piece of rebar in the concrete and carefully chip the concrete
away until you reach the metal. Then attach a heavy gage wire to the rebar
and close the hole with concrete patch. You will now have access to the
grounding grid.
Dave WD9BDZ
One should never have any rebar exposed to the air. It will rust and expand
breaking the concrete. If put in correctly, it will be about 3 inches
inside the concrete.

Correct, Ralph. Also, NEVER allow the possibility of a lightening
strike to enter rebar in concrete. You will explode the concrete
because of the tremendous localized heating. There goes your
foundation and/or pad your house is setting on. The building
inspectors in Central Oregon do check the footings and foundation
before concrete is poured and would quickly notice a connection from
the rebar to the outside world.

Paul, KD7HB
Redmond, OR

Interesting. Here in Florida, the lightning capital of the continental
US, the ordinary electrical service grounding mechanism is *only* via
bonding to the metal in the foundation. New house construction will not
pass inspection without such a connection unless other more complex
arrangements are fashioned. There are typically no driven ground rods,
and water pipes are usually non-conductive. (The NEC no longer allows
water pipes to serve as the sole ground in any case.)

73,
Gene
W4SZ