In article ,
Gary S. Idontwantspam@net wrote:

On Sun, 04 Apr 2004 00:50:41 -0800, Roy Lewallen
wrote:

Bob gave a very good explanation. I'll add that the term "enameled" is a
carryover also. I doubt that real enamel is used any more, and that
"enameled" wire is actually coated with plastic these days. But we still
use the term to describe wire, usually solid, with a very thin, usually
transparent, coating. And because it's by far the most commonly used
wire type for winding coils, "enameled wire" and "magnet wire" are often
used interchangeably.

Actual enamel is more easily chipped off, and a blade will scrape it
away from where you wish to solder.

The newer plastic coating is nearly indestructible, resisting scraping
with a blade, soldering iron heat, and most solvents. There is a
special solvent (rather nasty one, IIRC) which softens it up enough to
remove. Otherwise, power tools, flamethrower, or something really
serious is needed to remove it.

The simplest way is to get the special solvent, but go generous on the
ventilation.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------

The enamal is often "formvar." Check this out:
http://www.reawire.com/formvar.asp

Kapton had been used for this also.

But this would be for high end uses. The cheaper ones may actually be
varnish! As it is thin, it will bend with the wire unless the angle is
really acute. You don't want two cracks aligning with each other. But
this is the luck of the draw.

I actually used a specialized microscope at one time which allowed a 360
degree view of the wire. You would spool it through and look for
defects. Who would do this? The space program and the military for very
high reliability equipment.

Al

--
There's never enough time to do it right the first time.......