On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 16:14:57 -0700 (PDT), DrYattz
wrote:

In fact, the best reception is when we touch the
antenna lead wire to the telescoping antenna.

I would suspect that if you simply touched the same place with your
finger (no antenna then either) you would get "the best reception."

Do you suggest:

1) an antenna tuner?

Very much suggested, yes.

2) coaxial cable running from the radio (Lo-Z input) to the end of the
75 foot run?

A move in this direction would foster more options when you experiment
with other antennas.

Also, use the LO-Z input, even if you don't choose to go with coax
cable right now.

3) a north-south run?

Sure, but that isn't the answer to your immediate problem.

Hi Rees,

The advantage found in using a tuner is that it can cure "deafness"
induced by nearby strong transmitters overloading your receiver's
front end (the first stages of amplification). Such a problem is
rarely obvious aside from the general sense of lack of sensitivity -
and yet this symptom is often the most definite cue. Many who choose
to ignore this necessity proudly proclaim how good their set is, not
knowing that it could be vastly better.

Even though you may not be tuned to the local AM transmitter a couple
of miles away, its strength can be 100,000 times stronger than what
you are attempting to tune in. This signal will force its way into
your radio and develop a voltage called AGC which lowers your radio's
sensitivity - by design.

The solution here is to exclude that signal before it gets in, and to
include that signal that you want to hear so it can get in. This is
the function of a tuner. This function used to be part and parcel to
older non-computerized receivers (read tube-sets and expensive solid
state models). You can add it back in quite simply. Shop for the
cheapest amateur radio antenna tuner that has two variable capacitors,
and a switched inductor - and WITHOUT a meter. You can buy one with a
meter, but the meter will not be functional for reception, it will
probably cost more, but it will still suit the required function of
tuning. There are sure to be SW specific tuners out there. They
don't bring anything extra to the table except for smaller size,
perhaps - and they could be expensive for no real advantage.

If you read this last paragraph closely, it gives a clue to a project
you and your son could engage in: constructing a tuner from parts.
Here's the simple list:
1. Box (any material, but metal is best);
2. Input connector;
3. Input capacitor with knob;
4. Switch with knob for coil inductor;
5. Coil inductor with taps for switch;
6. Output capacitor with knob;
7. Output connector.
That's it. Values for the components, how to arrange them, and where
to find them can be left to investigation on the Web.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC