On Tue, 22 Jul 2003 15:42:26 -0700, W7TI wrote:

Maybe this has been done before, but it's the first time I've heard of
this method.

I've used it here with no problems. Outside I use N connectors for
nearly all connections.

While struggling as usual to attach some PL-259s to some Belden 9913F,
it occurred to me that the four little holes for soldering the braid

For the purist connecting there helps keep the impedance correct, BUT
as you took the braid inside I would expect about the same.

Contrary to what some have said, I've not been able to see any bump
using a Time Domain Reflectometer (TDR) with that approach.

were not really needed. Instead, I soldered the braid directly to the
connector at the point where it entered. Picture at:

www.dslextreme.com/users/teeaye/coax.jpg

I soldered it all around the connector, although I suppose only one
point would be ok.

All around is better


The braid is exposed so it would need weatherproofing for outside use.
But all in all, it seems to me to be far superior to trying to solder
through the little holes. It's much stronger and you can easily see if
you have a good connection.

When it comes to weather proofing, PL259s are not weather proof. You
just make it a little easier for the water to get in.

I use "flooded" heat shrink tube over the connector and out onto the
coax by about an inch and a half. I purchase it in 4' lengths at the
local electrical supply house. The flooding material is pretty much
the same stuff used in hot glue guns.

You have to remember to start shrinking the tube in the middle and
work out to the ends


Also, only a small-wattage iron is needed. I used a 40-watt Weller,
which is not hot enough doing it the normal way. There is less metal
acting as a heat sink.


Another advantage is you can trim the braid much farther back from where

Here you don't want to trim it back much father than the normal
installation.

I cut and trim to length, then tin the braid. If need be (and it
usually is) I file down the solder so the braid easily fits all the
way in to the proper position and I don't have to worry about
"whiskers".

you strip the center conductor. This helps reduce the chances of a
stray strand causing a short.

The only drawback I can see would be if the coax were hanging down and
swinging in the breeze - the solder could develop metal fatigue over
time. On the other hand, the coax should be strain-relieved anyway,
else it's just holding on by the four holes and the center conductor.

Yes, Yes, and no.
Yes, the solder will eventually fatigue.
Yes the connection should be supported, or strain relieved.
No, those little solder spots are an electrical connection, not to
support the cable.

Most of what little strength a pl259 has, comes from the jacket being
screwed down into the connector.

Roger Halstead (K8RI EN73 & ARRL Life Member)
www.rogerhalstead.com
N833R World's oldest Debonair? (S# CD-2)
Not much better, if at all.

Comments?