amdx wrote:
On 10/16/2015 6:36 AM, gareth wrote:
"Brian Reay" wrote in message
...
Using a pipe cutter and the plug as a guide, cut the surplus braid
away.

To give credit where it is due, the use of a pipe cutter is a good idea.

It sure beats the gingerly use of a junior hacksaw!


I'm with him on the method, tin the shield, pipe cutter is good, but
I use en exacto or utility knife, guess my pipe cutters are to old and
dull. It's even worth it to tin the holes on the PL-259 and let it cool
before you start.
Oh, and don't forget to install the sleeve first!!

Mikek


I keep a small pipe cutter specially for the job. It is a small C type one,
rather than the larger G clamp type. A utility (we would say Stanley) knife
is a bit dangerous in my view, if it slips, used for this task. Ok for the
sheath and inner insulation of course.

Another trick is to cut slowly, so as to preserve the edge on the cutting
wheels. Several gentle cuts, rather than trying to cut too quickly. As a
guide, if you mark the inner, go easier next time. That is my rule of
thumb.

If you think about it, the braid, even when soldered, is probably no harder
than a copper pipe as lead is softer than copper and the braid isn't solid.
There is the tin, of course, but that is why I suggest several cuts.

I've used the technique for decades and I'm pretty sure I've not replaced
the pipe cutter. It has been used by myself and countless licence students
(fitting a plug is required for one of the licence assessments here).

I can't claim to have invented the technique. I'm not sure but I think I
first saw an American amateur use it in the early 80s.