Dr.,
thanks ...
alternator whine ... makes sense ... I split of the + from an accessory
outlet in the boot (yes .. the cables are rated with enough AMPs), which
comes from the fuse box ... picked up a noise filter today .. will put it in
tomorrow ... sure it will work

grounding .. just double checked everything .. seems to be ok .. I think the
only way to achieve a better grounding would be to put a cable directly to
the engine block, rather through the frame ;-)

regards the 'breaking' .. it only happens with certain TXs, not all do the
'breaking-thingy' (hope that is the correct technical term)

professional assistance .. nah .. don't think so .. this is a hobby .. so I
shall learn and learn and learn until I know and can do it myself

spell-checking .. if you can get me the partnumber I order a spell-checker
with ICom .. called them today to order one.. they asked me to spell
spellchecker .. but I didn't have a spell-checker-speller .. so .. need your
assistance here .. thx

Thanks,
D.


"Dr. Anton T. Squeegee" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

Hi,
I am beginner .. sorry if some of this seems like stupid question(s):

The only "stupid" question is the one you never ask.

Frequencies used are in the 460Mhz-490Mhz range.

Since the 2010/2020 series are FCC Part 90 type accepted, this is
a good match.

The problems I am experiencing now:
- Whenever the unit is Rx ... I can hear a whisling sound, which is
only audible if I accelerate (there seems to be a relationship to the
RPMs ?)

Alternator whine. Very common. You need to check that all your
radio and antenna ground connections are clean and solid, that the body
of the car is well-bonded (electrically speaking) to the engine block,
and hence to the negative battery termimal, AND you should purchase and
install an alternator whine filter.

- If the car is stationary I can Rx ok, once the car is moving (maybe
50 kmh) the Rx is braking up

That's "breaking," BTW. Possible antenna problems. You should
check the forward and reflected power with a good-quality thruline RF
wattmeter, such as a Bird 43 series or a Telewave.

Also, the antenna's outer shell conductor may not be well grounded
to the frame of the vehicle.

If any or all of the above sounds unfamiliar or overly complex, I
would strongly recommend that you seek professional assistance from
whatever amateur radio club or two-way radio shop is local to your area.
You cannot properly troubleshoot things like antenna problems without
the proper test equipment.

Is above normal, if not .. any ideas how to fix it ?

I am aware that I should shorten the antenna cable, rather than
looping it.

Antenna cables should be cut to length unless the manufacturer of
the antenna explicitly states otherwise in their printed instructions
(which should have been included with the antenna).

Could the transmition be causing the whisling noises ?

No. That's "transmission," BTW.

Is the antenna I am using a piece of s(*^&(^ and should I use a
different one ?

No idea. Antennas are pretty simple devices. If the one you have
is built for the frequency range you're using, I don't see why it would
not work if it was properly installed.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"