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#1
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HI
I was wondering in general, how best to create some VERY effective shielding between some equipment for example, I wanted to stack my powersupply ontop of a tuner while each are in metal enclousures and properly"" grounded i wanted to go further what is the best way?? would a thin sheet of lead (i'd encase in a rubber coating) or a sheet of copper? or would the only way be to say get some copper tape and wrap the unit? thanks |
#2
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The first and most important step is to heavily filter all conductors
entering and leaving both units. This is important because all wires act as antennas, efficiently radiating and receiving the interference -- it doesn't matter how good the cabinet is if you have ways for interference to get through it. Filtering can be simple or difficult depending on what lines you're filtering, and doing a really good job requires considerable skill and knowledge. For the tuner, you can't filter the differential antenna current at the frequencies you want to receive, so you'll have to put it far away and heavily filter the common mode current. In addition to heavily filtering all conductors entering or leaving, you need to enclose each unit in its own secure box. Any decent conductor (e.g., copper, aluminum, or steel) will do for MF and above. The important thing is that it can't have any holes or slots except small ones, and even those will degrade the shielding. This means that all seams have to be sealed with multiple screws or rivets and/or RF gasketing material. Any large holes like one for a meter should be covered with screen which is solidly connected all around its perimeter. Those are just some of the basics. EMC is a challenging discipline, and doing a really good job of isolation generally requires skill and knowledge beyond that which most amateurs have. Roy Lewallen, W7EL ml wrote: HI I was wondering in general, how best to create some VERY effective shielding between some equipment for example, I wanted to stack my powersupply ontop of a tuner while each are in metal enclousures and properly"" grounded i wanted to go further what is the best way?? would a thin sheet of lead (i'd encase in a rubber coating) or a sheet of copper? or would the only way be to say get some copper tape and wrap the unit? thanks |
#3
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The very first thing to do is to stack the PSU on top of the tuner and
check to see if further precautions are really necessary. I very much doubt that they will. If there IS any interference, it will be picked up wherever in the shack the boxes are placed and the only solution will be to change the type of power unit. ===================================== |
#4
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At HF most of the interference you're going to get from box to box is
either conducted along some wires connecting them or radiated by some large metallic structure (the power cord, the house wiring, etc) that is connected to wires coming out of the boxes and then picked up by the antenna. Although Roy has excellent points about what you need to do to get solid EMI shielding, you can do a lot without plugging the holes in the boxes. Reg is right about the first step. Do you need extra measures at all? The second step is plugging the BIG leaks, which would involve doing things like filtering the unshielded cables coming in and out of things (ferrites on the power cord, for example). Your boxes already have some shielding by virtue of the fact that they're in metal enclosures (I assume). If you are having problems with, say, a switching PSU and you think it's leaking in to the tuner, try this. Replace the antenna and feedline with a good, shielded dummy load. Then see if there's any change in the noise in your RX between setting the PSU on the tuner and setting it elsewhere. Dan |
#5
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Le Fri, 11 Aug 2006 02:57:00 GMT,
ml a écrit : HI I was wondering in general, how best to create some VERY effective shielding between some equipment for example, I wanted to stack my powersupply ontop of a tuner while each are in metal enclousures and properly"" grounded i wanted to go further what is the best way?? would a thin sheet of lead (i'd encase in a rubber coating) or a sheet of copper? or would the only way be to say get some copper tape and wrap the unit? thanks You must first try to stack the supply on the top of the tuner and hear what append. If it is HF EMC, Roy and Dan give you some advices for that. If it is 50 or 100Hz, only mu-metal will do something. With copper or metal, you will only get Foucault's current in the shield, and those currents will make a new EM field on the other side of the shield. Successive metal shields can even be a very good mean to transport at distance a low frequency magnetic field. So, only mu-metal will be effective in that case. Dominique |
#6
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Dominique Michel wrote:
. . . If it is 50 or 100Hz, only mu-metal will do something. With copper or metal, you will only get Foucault's current in the shield, and those currents will make a new EM field on the other side of the shield. Successive metal shields can even be a very good mean to transport at distance a low frequency magnetic field. So, only mu-metal will be effective in that case. That's absolutely right, although you might get by with a good layer of steel for mains-frequency shielding. I was thinking only of RF interference. If you're having problems with mains-frequency hum from the power supply transformer's field or the field from the conductors between the transformer and the filter, you'll need some highly permeable material. Steel might be adequate, but mu-metal is better. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
#7
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![]() What are the pro's and con's of lengenthing a mobile antenna? I have a travel trailer that I would like to operate from with a mobile vertical antenna off the back bumper. I standard 8' Huslter type mobile antenna would be poor with most if its length running parallel the back side of my aluminum framed trailer body. Would it be benefitial to add about 15 or so feet of mast to the antenna below the coil? Would an additional 15 feet of mast below the coil prevent me from tuning to resonance with the adjustable whip on top? If so, any suggestions as to materials to do so? PS: I'm only planning on operating 75M and maybe 40M. Ed K7AAT |
#8
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In article 20060812010400.61fa4a39@localhost,
Dominique Michel wrote: Le Fri, 11 Aug 2006 02:57:00 GMT, ml a écrit : HI I was wondering in general, how best to create some VERY effective shielding between some equipment for example, I wanted to stack my powersupply ontop of a tuner while each are in metal enclousures and properly"" grounded i wanted to go further what is the best way?? would a thin sheet of lead (i'd encase in a rubber coating) or a sheet of copper? or would the only way be to say get some copper tape and wrap the unit? thanks You must first try to stack the supply on the top of the tuner and hear what append. If it is HF EMC, Roy and Dan give you some advices for that. If it is 50 or 100Hz, only mu-metal will do something. With copper or metal, you will only get Foucault's current in the shield, and those currents will make a new EM field on the other side of the shield. Successive metal shields can even be a very good mean to transport at distance a low frequency magnetic field. So, only mu-metal will be effective in that case. Dominique what is mu metal? |
#9
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ml wrote:
what is mu metal? Doing a google search is a good skill to know. This would be an ideal opportunity to learn it. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
#10
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On 12 Aug 2006 01:02:27 GMT, Ed
wrote: What are the pro's and con's of lengenthing a mobile antenna? I have a travel trailer that I would like to operate from with a mobile vertical antenna off the back bumper. I standard 8' Huslter type mobile antenna would be poor with most if its length running parallel the back side of my aluminum framed trailer body. Would it be benefitial to add about 15 or so feet of mast to the antenna below the coil? Would an additional 15 feet of mast below the coil prevent me from tuning to resonance with the adjustable whip on top? If so, any suggestions as to materials to do so? PS: I'm only planning on operating 75M and maybe 40M. Ed K7AAT Ed, I am assuming you are operating from a fixed location as the height would exceed that of many bridges on the highway. Can you get to the roof of the motor home easily enough? If so, I would mount a bracket on the roof with a quick-disconnect on it. Then when you reach your location, you can just climb up and mount the antenna there fro the duration of your visit. Then when mobiling, move the antenna back to the bumper. I have operated a lot of mobile 80 and 40 meters. First of all, don't expect miracles, especially on 80 meters. The placement of either antenna on the center of the roof of my car has always been noticeably better than the bumper mount version. I now drive a van and the antenna is mounted on side of the van. Again, it is much better on the roof and tunes more easily there too. However, i cannot drive with it on my roof (I use Hamsticks). As for your specific question, I don't know the answer, but if you can find a piece of extension to test it with temporarily, such as a piece of copper pipe, you might get an answer at an inexpensive cost. Good luck, Buck n4pgw -- 73 for now Buck N4PGW |