I use the holes because I think it makes a better connection especially if the
outer cover is properly "screwed" into the connector.

I found an old 100-W soldering iron, not gun, at a yard sale for 50 cents. I
machined (filed) the tip so that it was no longer pointed but cylindrical so
that the tip would just enter one of the four holes.

I hold the hot tip in the holes until the solder flows and "tins" the braid and
the connector.

If needed I can use some non corrosive flux to make me think I did a better
job.

73 de Jack, K9CUN

You guys might want to try crimp style alternatives to the PL259. I have
used them with no problems. They might actually have an advantage when
connecting to coax that uses aluminum fail and not much braid.

Tam/WB2TT
"W7TI" wrote in message
...
Maybe this has been done before, but it's the first time I've heard of
this method.

While struggling as usual to attach some PL-259s to some Belden 9913F,
it occurred to me that the four little holes for soldering the braid
were not really needed. Instead, I soldered the braid directly to the
connector at the point where it entered. Picture at:

www.dslextreme.com/users/teeaye/coax.jpg

I soldered it all around the connector, although I suppose only one
point would be ok.

The braid is exposed so it would need weatherproofing for outside use.
But all in all, it seems to me to be far superior to trying to solder
through the little holes. It's much stronger and you can easily see if
you have a good connection.

Also, only a small-wattage iron is needed. I used a 40-watt Weller,
which is not hot enough doing it the normal way. There is less metal
acting as a heat sink.

Another advantage is you can trim the braid much farther back from where
you strip the center conductor. This helps reduce the chances of a
stray strand causing a short.

The only drawback I can see would be if the coax were hanging down and
swinging in the breeze - the solder could develop metal fatigue over
time. On the other hand, the coax should be strain-relieved anyway,
else it's just holding on by the four holes and the center conductor.
Not much better, if at all.

Comments?

--
73, Bill W7TI

On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 05:36:07 -0000, Dave Platt hath writ:

I've read recommendations that if you're going to solder a
nickel-plated PL-259, you should take a file and rough off the nickel
in the area around and in the holes, and on the adapter inside (if
present). The brass under the nickel will take the solder somewhat
more readily.

Yep. I use a half-round to 'grind' the rims of the holes down to base
metal before assy. Then, using a WAY HOT, HIGH WATT iron -- not a
gun -- I get onto and off of each hole with solder as quickly as
possible -- making sure I `fill` each hole completely.

But, as another poster mentioned: A well-done PL-259 install always
makes for a Very Difficult reclamation. HI!HI!

73
Jonesy
--
| Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | OS/2
| Gunnison, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | linux __
| 7,703' -- 2,345m | config.com | DM68mn SK

I have always tinned the braid as the third step
in the assembly process. Have I been doing things
wrong for 40 years.

--
73 es cul

wb3fup
a Salty Bear

"W7TI" wrote in message
...
On 23 Jul 2003 16:43:24 GMT, Allodoxaphobia

wrote:

I get onto and off of each hole with solder as
quickly as
possible -- making sure I `fill` each hole
completely.


__________________________________________________
_______

I've done it that way for years, too. The only
problem is not knowing
if you have a good bond to the braid, being
buried under the "pool" of
solder and therefore invisible.

I guess that's why the original designer gave
you four chances at it.
:-)

--
73, Bill W7TI

I've never soldered the outer braid either.

Folding it back and tightening down the connector
over it has worked well for me for over 20 years.

This even works well when using reducers for
58, 58 & 8X. Fold the braid back over the reducer,
tighten, solder the center pin, and your done.

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003 15:42:26 -0700, W7TI wrote:



Also, only a small-wattage iron is needed. I used a 40-watt Weller,
which is not hot enough doing it the normal way. There is less metal
acting as a heat sink.

Get a 175 watt Weller, then you'll be able to solder it through the
four holes in just a few seconds, like it's designed for.

Bob
k5qwg

W7TI wrote:
What is RG-400? Did a google search and found one reference but no
details.

Got a Wirebook III from The Wireman? RG-400 is a 0.2" 50 ohm teflon coax
with a 1900V RF tolerance. It's all I ever use anymore inside the hamshack.
Great for four foot cables and baluns.
--
73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp



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Bill,
It really is better if a connector is installed as it's
designed to be installed. It may not be the easiest way of
doing it, but it's almost always the best way.
Having said that, I've found that using a propane torch
is the easiest way I've found to put on a PL-259. Takes a
little practice (and don't use MAP gas!), but not a problem
even in high winds. It helps to pre-tin any adaptors, etc.
'Doc

You could also try LMR240. Loss at 50MHz is only 0.1db/100 more than 213,
but it is 0.24 diameter. Works with RG6/59 reducer. About $45/100 feeet. I
have some connectors with shield soldered, some not. There is also a LMR240
Flex, which is really nice for patch cords, but costs a little more. I have
put a KW through both of them at HF.

Tam/WB2TT
"W7TI" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Jul 2003 19:41:56 -0500, W5DXP
wrote:

Got a Wirebook III from The Wireman? RG-400 is a 0.2" 50 ohm teflon coax
with a 1900V RF tolerance. It's all I ever use anymore inside the
hamshack.
Great for four foot cables and baluns.

__________________________________________________ _______

Sounds like nice stuff, but at $1.62 per foot... Hmmmmmm.

--
73, bILL w7ti

W7TI wrote:
IMO, a poor design to begin with.

There is the alternative of the pressure-sleeve PL-259, which fits
regular RG213 or RG58, and you assemble it by screwing down a nut. Only
the centre conductor requires soldering.

"This is not your father's MIL cable clamp" as used on so many BNCs and
Ns of US origin, which tears off the braid and pulls out easily. This
one works - the whole cable will tear apart before it pulls out the rear
of the plug. Pressure-sleeve BNCs and Ns are so much better, I won't
ever buy the old MIL type any more.

More recently, PL-259s and cable jacks have become available with the
pressure-sleeve clamp too, mainly through the Multicomp brand sold by
Farnell in Britain. Try www.farnell.com/uk and search for order codes
724804, 724816 as examples. The product line includes plugs and cable
jacks for RG213 and for RG58 - that's two separate sizes (no adaptor).

These connectors are more expensive, but they are the only ones that
avoid the problems of heavy-duty soldering outdoors. For that situation
they can be an absolute godsend.

(Well, there's also crimp, but crimp is one of those techniques that's
useless unless it's done perfectly. The price of the correct tool to
make a full hex crimp around RG213 will buy a lot of pressure-sleeve
connectors. Also, the pressure-sleeve clamp is waterproof in its own
right, which the crimp is not.)

Last time I posted this information, about two years ago, there was a
lot of interest from the USA, so here's what I know.

Availability in the USA used to be poor... and may still be. The
pressure sleeve clamp was invented by the British company Greenpar
AFAIK, but was also licensed to G-E who used to make a PL-259 and may
still do so - so G-E is one place to look.

Otherwise you have to follow the company takeover trail, to see where
the technology went. Greenpar was bought by M/A-com and the idea seemed
to disappear; then the M/A-com connector line was bought in turn by AMP
and by Tyco.

The Greenpar name has recently resurfaced as a Tyco brand, and quite
possibly the connectors have too. Farnell now stock a "Tyco Greenpar"
PL-259 which is probably pressure-sleeve, and obviously will be
available in the USA (but even more expensive than the Multicomp
connector). Another possible lead in the USA is Newark, which is owned
by Farnell and is now beginning to stock some Multicomp parts.


--
73 from Ian G3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
Editor, 'The VHF/UHF DX Book'
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek