Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article ,
Ian White GM3SEK wrote:

The SDS+ system is the Bosch company's patented method to build
hand-held electric drills with a *serious* high-impact hammer action.
The system has been widely licensed to other manufacturers, so all SDS+
drills are basically the same. They all have a snap-lock chuck (if it
has a 3-jaw chuck, it ain't SDS) that takes a wide range of heavy-duty
drill bits and tools. Most have a shift lever that gives you the choice
between rotary action on its own, hammer action on its own, or both
together - all in a drill that you can hold in one hand.

Ian-

Local stores carry the SDS+ drills, but I have been unable to locate a
local source for the 1/2 inch nut driver (socket adapter) to use with it.

I did find a Hitachi part number. A Hitachi dealer called the company
to see about ordering one. Hitachi agreed it was a good number, but
they didn't have any and didn't know how to get them!

There is a company in the UK called ScrewFix.com that advertises them.

That's where I bought mine. I have posted a photograph of the whole
setup at:
www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/misc/rod-driver.jpg

The adapter is the object between the socket and the chuck (not quite in
its original condition - the rust and weld spatter are aftermarket
accessories).

As I said earlier, the socket is only there to prevent the driver from
jumping off the end of the ground rod, so it only needs to be a very
loose fit.

However, I don't know how to handle the conversion between dollars and
pounds when paying. I wonder if the credit card company can take care
of that automatically?

Yes, that is done automatically. However, you may pay more in shipping
charges and US Customs duty than the cost of the item itself.

Rather than go to all that trouble, you might do better to have
something made locally.

The only special part is the slotted shank that snaps into the chuck.
This is exactly the same on every SDS+ drill bit and tool, so you can
simply buy the cheapest item you can find (probably a small masonry bit)
and chop off the end that you don't need.

Then find a short piece of steel tubing that will slide loosely over the
end of your ground rods, and have the two parts welded together.



--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

I've never paid attention to the tool they use
when they put up the tent at the Charlotte show,
but it'll drive a 1 inch solid tent stake through
the asphalt parking lot like it's butter.

I've never been there to see what they have to do to pull
them out when the tent comes down.
The stakes sure hold the tent fine.

I'd like to drive a ground rod near the point where
the coax hooks to the ladder line from my G5RV,
but it's next to a large oak tree.
I can just imagine what getting through all those
roots would be like.

73, Ron

I've never paid attention to the tool they use
when they put up the tent at the Charlotte show,
but it'll drive a 1 inch solid tent stake through
the asphalt parking lot like it's butter.

I've never been there to see what they have to do to pull
them out when the tent comes down.
The stakes sure hold the tent fine.

I'd like to drive a ground rod near the point where
the coax hooks to the ladder line from my G5RV,
but it's next to a large oak tree.
I can just imagine what getting through all those
roots would be like.
==============================
Having followed this thread for some time , my simple question is :

Are ground rods really necessary for a good " RF Earth " ?

Are buried or elevated radials or an area covered with '(galvanised)
wire mesh' not equally effective or even superior ?

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

Highland Ham wrote:
==============================
Having followed this thread for some time , my simple question is :

Are ground rods really necessary for a good " RF Earth " ?

No. But they're essential for a good lightning ground or safety (mains)
ground.

Are buried or elevated radials or an area covered with '(galvanised)
wire mesh' not equally effective or even superior ?

For RF, yes. For lightning or safety ground, no.

You should be able to find a great deal of information about the
different requirements for different grounds by searching previous
postings of this newsgroup with groups.google.com.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

"Highland Ham" wrote in message
...
I've never paid attention to the tool they use
when they put up the tent at the Charlotte show,
but it'll drive a 1 inch solid tent stake through
the asphalt parking lot like it's butter.

I've never been there to see what they have to do to pull
them out when the tent comes down.
The stakes sure hold the tent fine.

I'd like to drive a ground rod near the point where
the coax hooks to the ladder line from my G5RV,
but it's next to a large oak tree.
I can just imagine what getting through all those
roots would be like.
==============================
Having followed this thread for some time , my simple question is :

Are ground rods really necessary for a good " RF Earth " ?

Are buried or elevated radials or an area covered with '(galvanised)
wire mesh' not equally effective or even superior ?

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

Frank

For RF purposes, radials or mesh are more effective than ground rods.
Radials and mesh form a 'mirror' surface at RF effectively reflecting an
image of the elevated antenna radiating element. It is not necessary to
actually have a 'good' connection to real earth, just the antenna system.
This is why elevated radials can work.

The radiating portion of the antenna needs something to 'work' against. So
you have two choices, a monopole antenna which can be thought of as working
against it's reflection in the earth, or a dipole antenna where each antenna
element works against the other. Just about all antennas are variants of
these two methods.

Mike G0ULI

I'd like to drive a ground rod near the point where
the coax hooks to the ladder line from my G5RV,
but it's next to a large oak tree.
I can just imagine what getting through all those
roots would be like.

If you have a rotary-hammer drill (as opposed to a plain hammer) you can
use a very long spiral drill bit to make a pilot hole through all the
roots, before hammering in the ground rod.

SDS masonry bits are available up to 1.0m long and will drill through
almost anything, including tree roots and even solid rock. If you can
drill a pilot hole, it almost guarantees that you'll be able to hammer
in the first 3 feet of ground rod very easily. Beyond that depth, it
depends what kind of ground you're in, and how far your luck holds out.


Highland Ham wrote:
Having followed this thread for some time , my simple question is :

Are ground rods really necessary for a good " RF Earth " ?

Are buried or elevated radials or an area covered with '(galvanised)
wire mesh' not equally effective or even superior ?

Wire mesh makes an excellent RF ground. It is particularly good for
Field Days and DXpeditions because you can quickly roll out a large area
of ground cover (typically in a '+' formation) and then roll it up again
when you're done.

But never for a permanent installation! While clearing the ground at
this new QTH, I ran into an impossible tangle of matted grass and bits
of sharp, rusty mesh that turned out to be an abandoned chicken coop. We
finally had to plane off the whole area with a dozer blade, and that
still didn't get rid of it, of course - all we could do was push the
problem out of the way.

Having experienced the legacy left by abandoned chicken mesh, I have
vowed always to use conventional wire radials that can be pulled out
easily after I'm gone.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK

Ron in Radio Heaven wrote:
I've never paid attention to the tool they use
when they put up the tent at the Charlotte show,
but it'll drive a 1 inch solid tent stake through
the asphalt parking lot like it's butter.

I've never been there to see what they have to do to pull
them out when the tent comes down.

An automobile bumper jack works fairly well as a stake puller.

Jim Lux wrote:
Ron in Radio Heaven wrote:

I've never paid attention to the tool they use
when they put up the tent at the Charlotte show,
but it'll drive a 1 inch solid tent stake through
the asphalt parking lot like it's butter.

I've never been there to see what they have to do to pull
them out when the tent comes down.


An automobile bumper jack works fairly well as a stake puller.

Fairly well? It works great! Pulls out a 10 foot ground
rod like it was set in butter. The big thing is that once
you've lifted the ground rod a foot or so, you can pretty well
pull it out by hand. I just wish there was some way to
jack it in!!

Irv Ve^BP

On Sat, 04 Aug 2007 11:27:33 -0700, Chuck Olson wrote:

is there any chance you might know what brand and model number of hammer
drill you used?

Yup, it's the Hilti TE-76-ATC.

Nobody I ever heard of... but it sure works nice.

Yup, it's the Hilti TE-76-ATC.

Nobody I ever heard of... but it sure works nice.




Google sure has heard of it! Lots of hits when I did a search on it.
Looks like a nice unit, although "quality" doesn't necessrily show up in a
picture.....

Ed K7AAT