Checking Coax Connextion
 

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 23:29:36 -0700, Richard Clark
wrote:

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 22:39:21 -0700, Andiroo
wrote:

All

Is it possible to check the quality of a coax connection to a PL259
plug without taking the plug apart - i.e. simply by using a
multimeter?

Hi-potting would be better as it *may* find whiskers which the
multimeter will not, but the multimeter will find the majority of
problems.

73

Roger (K8RI)

Hi Andy,

With both ends in your lap:
shells, end to end - very low Ohms;
pins, end to end - very low Ohms;
shell to pin, either end - infinite Ohms.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC

Checking Coax Connextion
 

Bryan wrote:
There are many ways to install the 83-1SP/PL-259 plugs. The
instructions given on the Amphenol website
(http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf) will
show the basics. In addition to what Tam says (use LOTS of soldering
iron/gun heat, and get in/out fast), I found a way to solder the plugs
that have nickel plating on the connector body.

Nickel doesn't like to solder worth a darn, and it will take lots of
heat to burn through it. By the time you do, the cable dielectric (and
possibly the insulator on the cheaper plugs) will turn to mush. It's
worse with foamed polyethylene vs solid polyethylene coaxial cable.
Before assembling the plug onto the cable, remove the plating on the
inside circumference of the plug. A small round file, X-acto knife, or
1/8" drill bit will do the trick.

An even better way is to file *across* the holes, cutting the brass body
down to two thin feather edges which are easier to solder.

My soldering "weapon of choice" is a Weller #8200 100/140W unit.

For anyone who doesn't already have a large iron, I'd recommend buying
an inexpensive hot air gun instead.

If you use the hot air gun to pre-heat the connector body, your existing
25W iron can handle the soldering part.

Another use for the hot air gun is with heat-shrink tubing, so it's $20
well spent. The only risk is that someone may ask you to strip paint
with it.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Checking Coax Connextion
 

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
Bryan wrote:
There are many ways to install the 83-1SP/PL-259 plugs. The
instructions given on the Amphenol website
(http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf) will
show the basics. In addition to what Tam says (use LOTS of soldering
iron/gun heat, and get in/out fast), I found a way to solder the plugs
that have nickel plating on the connector body.

Nickel doesn't like to solder worth a darn, and it will take lots of
heat to burn through it. By the time you do, the cable dielectric (and
possibly the insulator on the cheaper plugs) will turn to mush. It's
worse with foamed polyethylene vs solid polyethylene coaxial cable.
Before assembling the plug onto the cable, remove the plating on the
inside circumference of the plug. A small round file, X-acto knife, or
1/8" drill bit will do the trick.

An even better way is to file *across* the holes, cutting the brass body
down to two thin feather edges which are easier to solder.

Even better is to do both. Removing the plating inside the hole will
promote the flow of solder across the junction of connector body to shield,
which is what we want.

My soldering "weapon of choice" is a Weller #8200 100/140W unit.

For anyone who doesn't already have a large iron, I'd recommend buying
an inexpensive hot air gun instead.

If you use the hot air gun to pre-heat the connector body, your existing
25W iron can handle the soldering part.

Preheating the connector is a technique I've used, when I didn't have a
large iron handy.

Another use for the hot air gun is with heat-shrink tubing, so it's $20
well spent. The only risk is that someone may ask you to strip paint
with it.
--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Bryan WA7PRC

Checking Coax Connextion
 

Bryan wrote:
An even better way is to file *across* the holes, cutting the brass body
down to two thin feather edges which are easier to solder.

Even better is to do both. Removing the plating inside the hole will
promote the flow of solder across the junction of connector body to
shield, which is what we want.

Sorry, I cannot have explained that clearly enough.

If you do what I suggested, there is no point in removing the plating
from the inside wall of the hole first, because you're going to file all
of that metal away.

Keep filing until the inside wall is completely gone, and the hole is
surrounded by a sharp edge that tapers to zero. At that point, stop
filing - it's ready for soldering.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Checking Coax Connextion
 

"Ian White GM3SEK" wrote in message
...
Bryan wrote:
An even better way is to file *across* the holes, cutting the brass body
down to two thin feather edges which are easier to solder.

Even better is to do both. Removing the plating inside the hole will
promote the flow of solder across the junction of connector body to
shield, which is what we want.

Sorry, I cannot have explained that clearly enough.

If you do what I suggested, there is no point in removing the plating from
the inside wall of the hole first, because you're going to file all of
that metal away.

Keep filing until the inside wall is completely gone, and the hole is
surrounded by a sharp edge that tapers to zero. At that point, stop
filing - it's ready for soldering.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Let me see if I have this straight. You are filing on the round part of the
connector barrel where it has the 2, 3, or 4 holes for soldering to the
shield. You use a narrow flat file, and file just short of the point where
the holes would become oblong?

Tam/WB2TT

Checking Coax Connextion
 

Tam/WB2TT wrote:

Let me see if I have this straight. You are filing on the round part of
the connector barrel where it has the 2, 3, or 4 holes for soldering to
the shield. You use a narrow flat file, and file just short of the
point where the holes would become oblong?

Pretty much... I hope this picture helps make more sense of it:
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/misc/pl259.jpg

I actually use a 5/32 round file or rasp. Stop filing when the hole is
just beginning to become larger, and has thin, sharp edges all round.
The thin edges and bare brass make soldering much easier.


--

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

Checking Coax Connextion
 

Wouldn't it be simpler, cheaper, and easier to just use crimp
connectors? There is the cost of the crimping tool and die set, but
it's a one time investment, The cable is much easier to prepare
whether you strip it by hand or use a stripper, and the connections
are much more mechanically sound than the standard PL-259.

BTW I do solder the center pin even after crimping.

Good, silver plated PL-259s run on the order of $2.50 each (give or
take depending on how many you purchase. Silver plated N-type
connectors run around $5.00 USD, again give or take depending on how
many you purchase and they use the same die set as the PL-259s.

Considering cost and durability I've gone to all crimp connectors in
place of the solder type.

I water proof connectors and splices with MMM, flooded heat shrink
tubing. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/connectors.htm shows
the application of the tubing although that was before I went to the
crimp connectors.

73

Roger (K8RI)