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Old February 14th 08, 02:54 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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Default High ohm connections

Daddy always said the solder joint oughta be mechanically sound before you
even put the heat to it.
Use an abrasive and clean the wires to be joined.
Join them mechanically (like a good twist or compression connector) (If the
wire is copper, this would be low-resistance in itself) - then flux it and
solder it. (use Rosin flux - not acid flux).
Then considering its for an outside antenna, dip it in 3M ScotchKote which
is like an electrical-grade varnish.
That would make a "low-ohmic" (some call it "low-resistance") connection.

Oh and considering you're only using 5 watts, you need to shake the antenna
real hard while transmitting to be sure to get every little bit of RF out of
it. :-)


"MGFoster" wrote in message
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I'm working QRP (5W max) and I'm construction my own antennas. I've
read that antenna efficiency can be degraded by "high ohmic connections"
(especially deleterious to QRP ops). I'm assuming that we shouldn't
make potato-sized solder joints when assembling the antenna. So, I was
wondering what would be the best way to connect various parts of the
antenna?

Example: I've created a 4:1 balun based on Ron's (VK2DQ) description in
his article "Understanding and building the OCF dipole." The toroid
windings had to be connected. So, rather than twist them together (they
are 18 AWG) and solder them, I laid the pieces side-by-side (abt 1/4")
and solder them together. Is that a "high ohmic" connection? If so,
what other way could the pieces be soldered together w/o creating a high
ohmic connection?

For other parts of the antenna (e.g., the feed-point) would connectors
(quick release, ring type, etc.) be better than a solder joint?

Thanks,
--
MGFoster:::mgf00 at earthlink decimal-point net
Oakland, CA (USA)
KI6OFN

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Old February 14th 08, 06:16 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Jul 2006
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Default High ohm connections

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 21:54:47 -0500, "Hal Rosser"
wrote:

Daddy always said the solder joint oughta be mechanically sound before you
even put the heat to it.


Hi Hal,

Your daddy was teaching you that solder is a gas-tight seal, not a
mechanical connection.
Use an abrasive and clean the wires to be joined.
Join them mechanically (like a good twist or compression connector) (If the
wire is copper, this would be low-resistance in itself)

To the OP: a Western Union Splice is the correct form of joining
wires, and then flooded with solder. Flooded does NOT mean like Noah
and the Ark.
Then considering its for an outside antenna, dip it in 3M ScotchKote which
is like an electrical-grade varnish.

That is more so the weather doesn't leach the solder.
That would make a "low-ohmic" (some call it "low-resistance") connection.

Quite so.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC
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Old February 14th 08, 07:26 AM posted to rec.radio.amateur.antenna
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First recorded activity by RadioBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 199
Default High ohm connections

Richard Clark wrote:
Hal Rosser wrote:

Daddy always said the solder joint oughta be mechanically sound before

you
even put the heat to it.


Hi Hal,

Your daddy was teaching you that solder is a gas-tight seal, not a
mechanical connection.
Use an abrasive and clean the wires to be joined.
Join them mechanically (like a good twist or compression connector) (If

the
wire is copper, this would be low-resistance in itself)

To the OP: a Western Union Splice is the correct form of joining
wires, and then flooded with solder. Flooded does NOT mean like Noah
and the Ark.
Then considering its for an outside antenna, dip it in 3M ScotchKote

which
is like an electrical-grade varnish.

That is more so the weather doesn't leach the solder.
That would make a "low-ohmic" (some call it "low-resistance") connection.

Quite so.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC


If the splice will be under strain, a Western Union or Lineman splice
(http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../407%20Splices
..html) is "bestest". I use such splices when there is nothing (i.e.
insulator) to take the strain. IMO, the OP's description of his splice
would not require such tensile strength. In his application, anything that
prevents oxidation of the mating surfaces would suffice.

73,
Bryan WA7PRC


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