|
SG-230 problem
Hi all
I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy |
SG-230 problem
"Andy" wrote in
: Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT |
SG-230 problem
Hi Ed,
Just sent an e-mail off to them. 73 Andy "Ed_G" wrote in message . 192.196... "Andy" wrote in : Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT |
SG-230 problem
Ed_G wrote:
I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT I agree. There is also a yahoo Group for Smartuners. It is not sponsored by SGC but I have found it to be a good source of information. Good luck and 73, Tad, K3TD |
SG-230 problem
Hi Tad,
Joined that one. But I have not had much success yet. 73 Andy "Tad Danley" wrote in message news:cxaPj.11048$Zk5.1882@trnddc05... Ed_G wrote: I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT I agree. There is also a yahoo Group for Smartuners. It is not sponsored by SGC but I have found it to be a good source of information. Good luck and 73, Tad, K3TD |
SG-230 problem
Is there any where here in the UK that will repair this coupler?
Andy "Andy" wrote in message ... Hi Tad, Joined that one. But I have not had much success yet. 73 Andy "Tad Danley" wrote in message news:cxaPj.11048$Zk5.1882@trnddc05... Ed_G wrote: I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT I agree. There is also a yahoo Group for Smartuners. It is not sponsored by SGC but I have found it to be a good source of information. Good luck and 73, Tad, K3TD |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
Is there any where here in the UK that will repair this coupler? I have repaired mine a couple of times. The SGC documentation is very good. Have you checked the four lines between the Smartlock and the SGC-230? If the notune line (white wire) is at ground, the tuner is in perpetual reset. The notune line should be at a plus voltage when the reset button is not pushed and go to ground when the reset button is pushed. The digital control portion of the tuner is super easy to troubleshoot and a good technician should be able to diagnose and repair minor problems. All of my problems have been minor and easy to repair. The most nagging problem was when the tuner wouldn't tune while my pickup was in motion but would tune just as soon as I stopped the vehicle. It was a loose nut inside the box on the output feedthrough insulator. Have you tried the tuner without Smartlock in the circuit? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Just doubled checked without the Smartlock connected. No change. I did
notice that the braid of the coax where it connects to the terminal inside had broke off. Re-soldered this and its still the same. This was due to the big plastic nut on the back being lose and allowing the cable to turn. I wish I could fix it myself. But I would have to be talked through how to check the components to see if they were ok or not. 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message ... Andy wrote: Is there any where here in the UK that will repair this coupler? I have repaired mine a couple of times. The SGC documentation is very good. Have you checked the four lines between the Smartlock and the SGC-230? If the notune line (white wire) is at ground, the tuner is in perpetual reset. The notune line should be at a plus voltage when the reset button is not pushed and go to ground when the reset button is pushed. The digital control portion of the tuner is super easy to troubleshoot and a good technician should be able to diagnose and repair minor problems. All of my problems have been minor and easy to repair. The most nagging problem was when the tuner wouldn't tune while my pickup was in motion but would tune just as soon as I stopped the vehicle. It was a loose nut inside the box on the output feedthrough insulator. Have you tried the tuner without Smartlock in the circuit? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
But I would have to be talked through how to check the components to see if they were ok or not. Do you know any fellow hams who are electronic technicians or engineers, preferably electrical? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? Verify there's a good RF ground connected to the tuner. Even if you're using some kind of balanced antenna, my tuners are happier with a little metal on the ground. I have a simple, 12' piece of braid bolted to the tuner/transciever cases and simply laying on the sand. Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke www.n0eq.com |
SG-230 problem
Unfortunately I don't know anyone.
I have been off the air for a long time. After the move to here and having very good neighbours I am able to get back on the air. Well until the tuner stopped working. I did find this PDF doc just now. I have the model after the year 2000. 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message ... Andy wrote: But I would have to be talked through how to check the components to see if they were ok or not. Do you know any fellow hams who are electronic technicians or engineers, preferably electrical? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Anyone know of a shop that could repair my SG-230 coupler here in the UK?
I was told last night that SGC is now over charging there customers for repairs. 73 Andy "Lumpy" wrote in message ... Andy wrote: Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? Verify there's a good RF ground connected to the tuner. Even if you're using some kind of balanced antenna, my tuners are happier with a little metal on the ground. I have a simple, 12' piece of braid bolted to the tuner/transciever cases and simply laying on the sand. Craig 'Lumpy' Lemke www.n0eq.com |
SG-230 problem
Chris,
I will have a look, but its unlikely to be corrosion due to it being stored in its box in my cupboard for the lat 4 years. But it might help others. This might help you though. Some one did tell me once to seal the SG-230 with silica gel after putting some silica gel in side so soak up any moister. Its those little packets you get inside the box with new electrical items. Thanks "Christopher Cox" wrote in message ... Hi Andy, I had a similar problem with my SG-231. It turned out to be a corrosion problem in the power/control connector. This made a electrical connection to be made to the Reset/Hold/Tune leads. There was a little corrosion on the back side of the circuit board as well. Look up into the male connector and disassemble the female. I cleaned up the corrosion problems with a dental pick and fine wire brush. I resealed the connectors with epoxy. The silicon sealant SGC used seems to be effected by moisture as it had become milky looking till it dried out. Hope this helps. Chris Andy wrote: Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy |
SG-230 problem
It looks like some of the SM 3-pin diodes D10, D9, etc have failed. I was
only testing with a 100 watts although it was with a very high SWR at the time Do I have to go to SGC for the diodes or is there a replacement that I can use instead? 73 Andy "Andy" wrote in message ... Chris, I will have a look, but its unlikely to be corrosion due to it being stored in its box in my cupboard for the lat 4 years. But it might help others. This might help you though. Some one did tell me once to seal the SG-230 with silica gel after putting some silica gel in side so soak up any moister. Its those little packets you get inside the box with new electrical items. Thanks "Christopher Cox" wrote in message ... Hi Andy, I had a similar problem with my SG-231. It turned out to be a corrosion problem in the power/control connector. This made a electrical connection to be made to the Reset/Hold/Tune leads. There was a little corrosion on the back side of the circuit board as well. Look up into the male connector and disassemble the female. I cleaned up the corrosion problems with a dental pick and fine wire brush. I resealed the connectors with epoxy. The silicon sealant SGC used seems to be effected by moisture as it had become milky looking till it dried out. Hope this helps. Chris Andy wrote: Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
It looks like some of the SM 3-pin diodes D10, D9, etc have failed. I was only testing with a 100 watts although it was with a very high SWR at the time Do I have to go to SGC for the diodes or is there a replacement that I can use instead? My SGC-230 manual says those are 1N4148 high speed switching diodes which are one of the most popular diodes of all time. They should be readily available almost anywhere. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Cecil,
I had a look at the 1N4148, they are 2-pin. The diodes in mine are Surface mount 3-pin. Are the 1N4148 diodes for the old version board, before year 2000? My board is the newer version, after year 2000 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message . .. Andy wrote: It looks like some of the SM 3-pin diodes D10, D9, etc have failed. I was only testing with a 100 watts although it was with a very high SWR at the time Do I have to go to SGC for the diodes or is there a replacement that I can use instead? My SGC-230 manual says those are 1N4148 high speed switching diodes which are one of the most popular diodes of all time. They should be readily available almost anywhere. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
Cecil, I had a look at the 1N4148, they are 2-pin. The diodes in mine are Surface mount 3-pin. Are the 1N4148 diodes for the old version board, before year 2000? Yes, my manual is copyright 1994. My board is the newer version, after year 2000 What does your schematic say about those diodes? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
This is the problem that I have got with my SG-230.
I purchased it new myself. My PCB board is an Q50102000-E. it is what they call the newer version, after the year 2000. My manual is a Revised: November 2000. The Document number for the schematic, Q30102000E Rev: A Dated February 17, 1992. It looks to me to be the wrong schematic for my PCB board. Maybe some one might know if it is or not or have the correct one that they can send me? All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It doesn't say what they are. 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message . .. Andy wrote: Cecil, I had a look at the 1N4148, they are 2-pin. The diodes in mine are Surface mount 3-pin. Are the 1N4148 diodes for the old version board, before year 2000? Yes, my manual is copyright 1994. My board is the newer version, after year 2000 What does your schematic say about those diodes? -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
My manual is a Revised: November 2000. The Document number for the schematic, Q30102000E Rev: A Dated February 17, 1992. It looks to me to be the wrong schematic for my PCB board. Maybe some one might know if it is or not or have the correct one that they can send me? This one is copyrighted Nov. 2000 www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Manuals/230man.pdf All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It doesn't say what they are. Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will fit in the SMD pad space). -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
Yes, that is exactly the same manual as mine.
How would I connect the 1N4148 2-pin to the 3 pads that are under the SM 3-pin diodes, will this even work? If it is possible I would have to mount them vertical. 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message . .. Andy wrote: My manual is a Revised: November 2000. The Document number for the schematic, Q30102000E Rev: A Dated February 17, 1992. It looks to me to be the wrong schematic for my PCB board. Maybe some one might know if it is or not or have the correct one that they can send me? This one is copyrighted Nov. 2000 www.sgcworld.com/Publications/Manuals/230man.pdf All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It doesn't say what they are. Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will fit in the SMD pad space). -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It
doesn't say what they are. Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will fit in the SMD pad space). I wonder whether these diodes might not be MMBD4148 or some such? These are 1N4148-type fast switching diodes in an 3-pin SOT323 surface-mount package. Mouser and Digi-Key carry several variants of these. The MCC versions are $.10-$.15 each in onesies and are good to 75V, 150 mA. The Diodes INc. versions are around half a buck each in onesies, and are good to 75V, 200 mW. I'm not sure whether you'd want apples, or oranges :-) -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
SG-230 problem
In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an ID:
code of sorts. 73 Andy "Dave Platt" wrote in message ... All it says about the diodes is that they are either D5, D7, D9 etc. It doesn't say what they are. Yes, it doesn't say but if it were me, I would replace the blown diodes with 1N4148's (assuming discrete diodes will fit in the SMD pad space). I wonder whether these diodes might not be MMBD4148 or some such? These are 1N4148-type fast switching diodes in an 3-pin SOT323 surface-mount package. Mouser and Digi-Key carry several variants of these. The MCC versions are $.10-$.15 each in onesies and are good to 75V, 150 mA. The Diodes INc. versions are around half a buck each in onesies, and are good to 75V, 200 mW. I'm not sure whether you'd want apples, or oranges :-) -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
Yes, that is exactly the same manual as mine. How would I connect the 1N4148 2-pin to the 3 pads that are under the SM 3-pin diodes, will this even work? I'm pretty sure it would work if you get the pads right. One is probably grounded. One is probably the cathode. One is probably the anode. You should be able to figure out which is which using a digital ohm-meter. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
I found this just a few minutes ago, on a web site.
The diodes are in a small 3-leaded SM package. Looking down at the package with it oriented so that the single lead is on top, the cathode is the top tab and the anode is the left tab on the bottom. It looks like the bottom right out of the two is not used. Wonder if anyone can confirm the above? 73 Andy "Cecil Moore" wrote in message t... Andy wrote: Yes, that is exactly the same manual as mine. How would I connect the 1N4148 2-pin to the 3 pads that are under the SM 3-pin diodes, will this even work? I'm pretty sure it would work if you get the pads right. One is probably grounded. One is probably the cathode. One is probably the anode. You should be able to figure out which is which using a digital ohm-meter. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
In article ,
"Andy" wrote: Hi Tad, Joined that one. But I have not had much success yet. 73 Andy "Tad Danley" wrote in message news:cxaPj.11048$Zk5.1882@trnddc05... Ed_G wrote: I recommend you email your question to SGC. My recent experience with them shows they are fairly good at replies to questions, although you may have to wait a day or two for an answer. http://www.sgcworld.com Ed K7AAT I agree. There is also a yahoo Group for Smartuners. It is not sponsored by SGC but I have found it to be a good source of information. Good luck and 73, Tad, K3TD did you try asking SGC to sell you just the part? or at least confirm for you the part i bet any tech there would do that much u cuould then buy them cheep anyplace seems easiest route ? ii dunno |
SG-230 problem
In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an ID:
code of sorts. Yes, that's an ID code. According to one set of notes I've found, Fairchild use 5D as the code for an MMBD914, which is a fast switching diode similar to the 4148, in a 3-lead SOT-23 case. The MMBD4148 would have a 5H code. The two parts look *very* similar on the data sheets, and from what I've seen in practice they're interchangeable in most applications. If this is what you've got, then the pinout is as follows: if you look down from the top of the diode, with the two-leaded side on the left and the one-leaded side on the right: pin 1 at the top left is the diode's anode, pin 3 at the right center is the diode's cathode, and pin 2 at the lower left is not connected to the diode. The pinouts are the same for the MMBD914 and MMBD4148. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
SG-230 problem
In article , Andy wrote: I found this just a few minutes ago, on a web site. The diodes are in a small 3-leaded SM package. Looking down at the package with it oriented so that the single lead is on top, the cathode is the top tab and the anode is the left tab on the bottom. It looks like the bottom right out of the two is not used. Wonder if anyone can confirm the above? That's consistent with what I see in the data sheets for the surface-mount (SOT-23) switching diodes of type 914 and 4148. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
SG-230 problem
I have checked diodes D4, D5, D6, D8, D9 and D10 and all of them check out
OK. All 5 LED's are lit and stay lit when I key and de-key the transceiver. There is no clicking of the relays. In the SGC Smartuner troubleshooting that can be found here http://www.sgcworld.com/Publications...oubleshoot.pdf it says, For newer SG-230's and other SGC antenna couplers: 1. If LEDs do not light, RF sense diodes and bypass capacitors are suspect. Also check Q1 (ZN2222) and CPU chip (68HC711). 2. If LEDs do light and coupler does not initiate tuning, check the CPU chip. On rare occasions, the mixer A1 may fail. Verify if you have clock signal on the output of U3 (74HC393) chip. Verify DC voltage at U11, Pin 1 during transmit. Check R1 and if no voltage is present, check all 4 sensing signal inputs to the CPU chip - FWD, REV, PHASE, IMPEDANCE. If you have an input signal, you should see the appropriate LED light. Also verify RF PWR signal is present. How do I check the mixer A1 to find out if it's working? What equipment would I need to check for a clock signal on the output of the 74HC393 chip? What or where is U11 and how can I determine what one is pin 1? R1 has voltage. 73 Andy "Dave Platt" wrote in message ... In my SG-230, it says 5DL on the top of diode. Don't know if that is an ID: code of sorts. Yes, that's an ID code. According to one set of notes I've found, Fairchild use 5D as the code for an MMBD914, which is a fast switching diode similar to the 4148, in a 3-lead SOT-23 case. The MMBD4148 would have a 5H code. The two parts look *very* similar on the data sheets, and from what I've seen in practice they're interchangeable in most applications. If this is what you've got, then the pinout is as follows: if you look down from the top of the diode, with the two-leaded side on the left and the one-leaded side on the right: pin 1 at the top left is the diode's anode, pin 3 at the right center is the diode's cathode, and pin 2 at the lower left is not connected to the diode. The pinouts are the same for the MMBD914 and MMBD4148. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
SG-230 problem
Andy wrote:
What equipment would I need to check for a clock signal on the output of the 74HC393 chip? Unfortunately, you need an oscilloscope for troubleshooting at that level. What or where is U11 and how can I determine what one is pin 1? Good question. I don't see U11 on the schematic. -- 73, Cecil http://www.w5dxp.com |
SG-230 problem
2008년 4월 22일 화요일 오* 5시 46분 53초 UTC+9, Andy 님의 말:
Hi all I purchased the SG-230 about 4 years ago. I took it out of its box yesterday for the first time and tested it out on a light bulb as a dummy load and all worked fine. It found a match on all HF bands. I connected it to an antenna today and it would not tune. It would not reset with the Smartlock. I took the back off the 230 and noticed when I apply the 13.8 Volts all the relays click once and they all stay in that position until I disconnect the power and if I apply RF, 10-80 watts when the 230 is powered up it does nothing, it doesn't even attempt to tune.. I have also tried 2 lengths of 10ft wire and it does nothing. There are five LED's inside that are all on (green). Does anyone know what is causing this problem? 73 Andy Hi,I am Yoon Soo Choi from HL2MXRSG230 has been repaired?I have the same breakdown symptoms,I need help,Thank you. |
SG-230 problem
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:46 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
RadioBanter.com