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![]() Red, yellow, and naval brass as well as aluminum bronze alloys are marginally anodic with respect to copper so these alloys would provide minimal corrosion protection. I know it might not be obvious, but steel would make a better intermediate metal. This will make sense if the actual voltages are included in the galvanic series. These voltages are in sea water and with respect to a standard calomel electrode. Zinc -0.98 to -1.03 volts Aluminum -0.70 to -0.90 " Cast Iron -0.60 to -0.72 " Steel -0.60 to -0.70 " Red Brass, Yellow Brass, Naval Bross, Aluminum Bronze -0.30 to -0.40 " Copper -0.28 to -0.36 " 73, Barry WA4VZQ Always use Antenna Grease or equivalent on Aluminum contact points to keep the oxidation and moisture out. Steel is subject to rusting, so Stainless Steel or Galvanized Steel is best for antenna hardware to clamp to the Aluminum, and use tinned Brass or Copper loop-eye terminals soldered to the Copper wire and bolted with Stainless Steel or Galvanized hardware. Stainless should have a little Petroleum Jelly, NoAlox or Antenna Grease to keep threads from seizing. I have used Stainless Steel hose clamps and they work fine for quite a while. Aluminum house wiring has been banned a lot of places and is a bad idea all around. The problem is that the Aluminum is weaker. As it is flexed and heated at the connections, it will migrate out and the connection will get loose and you will have a cascade of oxidation and increased resistance. The recommended answer for that failure (If your house didn't burn) was to use a copper wire pigtail out to a wire-nut connection to the existing Aluminum wire with no-alox in the mix. Obviously, there is a loss of integrity and "how to jam the wire nuts into the box" issues. If you have Aluminum house wiring, you should keep an eye on line drops all through the house and run new wiring for any big draw appliance addition. |
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