I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv.
The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor
service has the parts for a reasonable price.
Good luck!
WK0F, Terry

Irv Finkleman wrote in message ...
"Dick, AA5VU" wrote:

Thanks to Irv and others that responded. I plan to remove the Control
Unit from the rats nest on Monday and try spraying the Calibration pot.

I still do not understand the function of the Calibration control? It
is a push in/out (maybe for on/off) and trim pot for setting the meter.
It has very little control over the needle. At best it does a few
degrees to help zero in on South.

Irv, where is the wireround pot you mentioned?

Thanks again to all that responded.

Dick - AA5VU

Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is
not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather
the pot in the rotor itself. If you open the rotor, you can't miss it,
it is at the highest point and has a large copper wiper arm. Still, it
wouldn't hurt to spray the calibration pot just in case although I have
never heard of any problems with that particular pot.

I presume you have a manual -- if you look at the interconnection between
the control unit and the rotor unit you will see how the pot in the
rotor sends the position down to the control unit.

When you open the rotor, be very careful as there is a large bearing
with balls about 3/8 inch diameter some of which may fall out. They are
easy to set in place, but if you are working in an area where they can
roll off the workbench into awkward places -- which Murphy's Law says
they will -- the job is more difficult.

Also note the relative position of things because incorrect assembly of
the mechanical linkage between top and bottom will result in big problems.
If you are reasonably mechanically adept, you shouldn't have any
problem.

You might even consider asking around among the local hams -- there are
probably a few who have already been inside one and would be willing
to share their expertise.

Once you have fixed things up you will find the calibration control has
considerable control over the meter setting.

I hope this helps!

Irv VE6BP

--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Irv/Terry,

Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor
at this time. Talk about a PITA

dick -aa5vu

In article , Irv Finkleman
wrote:

Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is
not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather
the pot in the rotor itself.

In article ,
(Terry Ashland) wrote:

I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv.
The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor
service has the parts for a reasonable price.
Good luck!
WK0F, Terry

Irv/Terry,

Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor
at this time. Talk about a PITA

dick -aa5vu

In article , Irv Finkleman
wrote:

Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is
not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather
the pot in the rotor itself.

In article ,
(Terry Ashland) wrote:

I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv.
The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor
service has the parts for a reasonable price.
Good luck!
WK0F, Terry

Irv/Terry,

Thanks but no thanks..... I am not ready to go up and remove the rotor
at this time. Talk about a PITA

dick -aa5vu

In article , Irv Finkleman
wrote:

Dick, the pot I refer to is in the Rotor -- not the control unit. It is
not the calibration control pot which is in the control unit, but rather
the pot in the rotor itself.

In article ,
(Terry Ashland) wrote:

I've experienced the problems you have outlined. I agree with Irv.
The problem is more than likely the pot in the rotor. Norm's rotor
service has the parts for a reasonable price.
Good luck!
WK0F, Terry

I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate'
control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air?

By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of
the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably
with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb
the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal!

Dick - AA5VU

aRKay wrote:

I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate'
control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air?


Silicon spray is not a cleaner and will do little if anything and could
possibly do harm. It is not a moisture problem either so need to
dry it out. WD-40 works well as a contact cleaner and will do the trick.
Fooling around with it and occasionally seeing the correct beam position
still points to the pot in the rotor unit -- it is dirty, but does make
intermittent contact at which time you do see the correct position.

There are no shortcuts. If cleaning the calibration control pot does
not fix the problem, then you have to climb the mast! Better now than
winter -- it won't get any better just sitting up there.

You can always position a mirror outside which will give you
a convenient view of the antenna position through a handy window. Don't
laugh! That's what I did until I got the replacement part.

Irv
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate'
control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air?

I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time,
and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want
for electrical contacts.

I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication /
treatment process.

By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of
the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably
with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb
the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal!

If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the
rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control
box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the
"calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage
or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging
over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the
sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or
replace the fouled sensor.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

WD40 is awful, Get the deoxit.
"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...
I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate'
control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air?

I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time,
and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want
for electrical contacts.

I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication /
treatment process.

By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of
the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably
with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb
the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal!

If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the
rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control
box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the
"calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage
or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging
over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the
sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or
replace the fouled sensor.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

Thanks for the recommendation. FYI, the problem is history and noted in
my other posting. The combination of spraying the Calibrate pot and
fixing where he lamp was shorting to the case FIXED the problem. It now
works like new. I used the RS cleaner but will keep the deoxit in mind
for other projects. At least I did not have to climb the tower to fix
the problem

dick aa5vu

In article ,
"Jimmy" wrote:

WD40 is awful, Get the deoxit.
"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...
I wonder if there is anything other than the $8.95 Radio Shack contact
or tuner cleaner that can be used on the Control Unit 'Calibrate'
control? How about WD-40 or sylicon spay dry it out with air?

I've heard that WD-40 tends to become gummy after some amount of time,
and can attract and hold dust and grit. Probably not what you want
for electrical contacts.

I often use Caig DeOxIt for this sort of cleaning / lubrication /
treatment process.

By messing with it the meter sometimes displays the correct location of
the beam. Per the previous responses I realize the problem is probably
with calibration control located in the rotor - I am not ready to climb
the tower and remove the rotor. That is big deal!

If the actual problem is a messed-up position pot / sensor in the
rotor, then it's likely that nothign you can do down at the control
box is going to make much difference. I'd guess that by operating the
"calibrate" switch at the box, you may be sending some small voltage
or current spikes up the wire to the sensor, and temporarily bridging
over the grid or dirt or oxidation or whatever else is fouling the
sensor. If this is the case, the only real remedy is to clean or
replace the fouled sensor.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!