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Old April 25th 04, 07:54 PM
Pat Myers
 
Posts: n/a
Default Carolina Windom Problem...any suggestions

I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with, hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the tune of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up (I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent 4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So, before I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...



  #2   Report Post  
Old April 25th 04, 08:56 PM
Dave Shrader
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Pat, before you jump off the world do you live near other hams or have a
ham club nearby? The reason I ask is that an Antenna Analyzer would help
understand what's happening. Not every ham owns one, but, generally
there are several hams in a club of 50 or more hams who would own one.

Deacon Dave, W1MCE
+ + +
Pat Myers wrote:
I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with, hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the tune of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up (I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent 4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So, before I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...




  #3   Report Post  
Old April 25th 04, 10:01 PM
Richard Clark
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:54:28 -0500, "Pat Myers"
wrote:

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck.


There are simpler, cheaper ways to accomplish the same end, so let's
just make the best of what you got.

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.


A copper ground rod is only good for an AC safety ground. If you want
an RF ground, you need some radials. We will skip this for the time
being.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut down.


This is a symptom of Common Mode problems. Your feedline is
radiating. How much is immaterial until it causes the shut down. It
is apparent that the BalUn is a conventional 4:1 with no choking
action (no point in asking them why not). Put a 1:1 Current BalUn
just before it, or wrap your coax into 6-8 loops of 6 inches (at the
feed point).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.


None of these will be so disruptive. It is Common Mode problems.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".


A waste of everyone's time.

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent 4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.


The choke (or added 1:1 Current BalUn) should fix it to the point you
can tune it in. You ARE using a tuner are you not? This isn't a
magic antenna.

The only multiband wire antennas (with names) that do not require
tuners are the ones that come with resistors built in. You did not
purchase this option. You WILL need a tuner.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC
  #4   Report Post  
Old April 25th 04, 10:41 PM
les
 
Posts: n/a
Default

The advise you have been given is good.
I will tell you my experience of Windoms. I built my own via info in the
Radio communications handbook, loads of info is on the net anyway. I have a
4-1 balun at the point where the 2 horizontal wires meet and a 1-1 balun at
22ft down from this. My antenna elements run as horizontal as possible and
the downlead drops down and as far away from any object that I could make
it. It works brilliant THROUGH A TUNER. In my opinion you will never get the
swr quoted by all the manuafactured windoms without a tuner.
BUT dont worry about the swr being a little high. All multiband antennas are
a compromise, but how many of us can put up a dipole for each band.
Good luck youll find the windom works well. Basically Im saying use a tuner
and dont get stressed out about the swr.

Les



"Richard Clark" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:54:28 -0500, "Pat Myers"
wrote:

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck.


There are simpler, cheaper ways to accomplish the same end, so let's
just make the best of what you got.

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the

rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.


A copper ground rod is only good for an AC safety ground. If you want
an RF ground, you need some radials. We will skip this for the time
being.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut

down.

This is a symptom of Common Mode problems. Your feedline is
radiating. How much is immaterial until it causes the shut down. It
is apparent that the BalUn is a conventional 4:1 with no choking
action (no point in asking them why not). Put a 1:1 Current BalUn
just before it, or wrap your coax into 6-8 loops of 6 inches (at the
feed point).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line

(and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing

metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.


None of these will be so disruptive. It is Common Mode problems.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".


A waste of everyone's time.

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways

and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent

4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the

rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this

option.

The choke (or added 1:1 Current BalUn) should fix it to the point you
can tune it in. You ARE using a tuner are you not? This isn't a
magic antenna.

The only multiband wire antennas (with names) that do not require
tuners are the ones that come with resistors built in. You did not
purchase this option. You WILL need a tuner.

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC



  #5   Report Post  
Old April 26th 04, 01:15 AM
dt
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have owned an successfully used two of the 160 meter "Carolina
Windoms" from Radiworks. First commercial wire antennas I've ever
used, but I made the decsision to buy & not build, in order to save
time and get something up in the air quickly.

These antennas work well. Your installed height is not really great,
but if that's all you have to work with, then so be it.

Radioworks' Carolina Windom (at least the 160M version) has around a
2:1 to 3:1 SWR on the 160-10M ham bands....which pretty much dictates
the use of a tuner; with your height, SWR will probably be a bit
higher. The design has some kind of balun at the junction of the
horizontal elements, and an RF choke at the end of the 22' "radiating
feedline".

With insulated wire, I don't know what variables you'll have...sounds
like it is made by another company, so your mileage may vary.

Good luck & 73
dt


On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:54:28 -0500, "Pat Myers"
wrote:

I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with, hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the tune of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up (I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent 4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So, before I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...





  #6   Report Post  
Old April 26th 04, 07:30 AM
ken chattenton
 
Posts: n/a
Default

HI Pat,
"Pat Myers" wrote in message
...
I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary

and
any help would be appreciated.


After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

You must use an ATU with this antenna.
It is NOT a resonant ant on any band ( the same as the G5RV, with the
exception of 20m in a good installation ).
Most built-in ATU's will not handle the high VSWR on this type of ant also.
The only exception I have seen to this is the 'ICOM-756PRO', it seems to
manage quite well into the 'Carolina Windom'

Try an ATU before you start ripping down the ant and rebuilding it just to
find you have the same problem Pat...........cheers and good luck, Ken,
G4KIR.


  #7   Report Post  
Old April 26th 04, 03:11 PM
Bill Grimwood
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have a Carolina Windom 160 up 50 feet and am using an Icom 756 Pro. The
ATU in the pro will not quite tune the antenna so I added an MFJ tuner and
am able to tune it up fine.

73 Bill W4WEG


"Pat Myers" wrote in message
...
I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary

and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF

operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and

could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not

forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with,

hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended

up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the tune

of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up (I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut

down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took

the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had

been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing

metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna

for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways

and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent

4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the

rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So, before

I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...





  #8   Report Post  
Old April 27th 04, 05:47 PM
les
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bill that suprised me about the 756 pro not tuning up a windom.
I use an old FT990 and it tunes the windom without problems.

Les
GM4JNW


"Bill Grimwood" wrote in message
...
I have a Carolina Windom 160 up 50 feet and am using an Icom 756 Pro. The
ATU in the pro will not quite tune the antenna so I added an MFJ tuner and
am able to tune it up fine.

73 Bill W4WEG


"Pat Myers" wrote in message
...
I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary

and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF

operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and

could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not

forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with,

hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended

up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the

tune
of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated

wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more

or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up

(I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the

rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut

down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything

seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took

the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had

been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line

(and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing

metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine

even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing

wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna

for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways

and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent

4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the

rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this

more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to

be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this

option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information

I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So,

before
I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...







  #9   Report Post  
Old April 27th 04, 08:38 PM
KC1DI
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Hi Pat,
Just want to add my 2Cents worth to the discussion.. I use a homebrew
Off Center Fed Dipole ( Windom is a misnomer , Since a true windham is
fed with a single wire line but that's another topic) It works very
well But you must use an antenna tuner.. I Use and LDG Z100 with mine
and it tunes all bands very well 80--10M. My verison uses a 4:1 balun
at the feed point and a Homebrew Choke-- 26 turns 6" diamater just
below the balun then another one just before the feedline comes into
the shack. the things works very well for me.. without the tuner
though the swr on most original ham bands is about 2:1 some less some
a little more.
P.S. if you decide to make a homebrew Choke Balun becareful that the
Rg8x you use does not have foam insulation.. This type coax will not
last long in that application.. because the foam allows the center
conductor to migrate to the sheild. eventuall it may even sort out.


hope this is of help.. 73 Dave


On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 13:54:28 -0500, "Pat Myers"
wrote:

I have posted this on eHam.com, but thought I'd try here as well.

Sorry if this story is rather convoluted, but I'm in a bit of a quandary and
any help would be appreciated.

I am getting back into ham radio after a ten year absence, and HF operating
has always been my favorite. In the past I lived in a rural area, and could
put up whatever sort of antennas I wanted, and was even pretty good at
making my own dipoles for various bands.

However, I now live in a subdivision that, while antennas are not forbidden
outright, the civic association is vicious and not to be trifled with, hence
I wanted to go with something at once stealthy but versatile.

At first I thought to try the old stand-by, the G5RV, but in doing my
Internet research on the issue, I came across this "Carolina Windom"
multiband antenna, which seemed to give more bangs for the buck. I ended up
purchasing one from an outfit that will remain nameless here, to the tune of
around $150, when you include shipping, rope and other incidentals.

It was a bear of a job to put up, since I had to threat it through tree
branches and whatnot (which is why I got the one with the insulated wire),
but I got it up. Suspended from trees, the "matching transformer" (looks
like a balun to me) and the long segment of wire was up about 35', more or
less horizontal. The shorter end sloped down, with the end about 10' up (I
had no alternative in this).

After making up the 100 or so foot feed line (RG-8X) and grounding the rig
(8' copper ground rod), I hooked up my Yaesu FT-890...and the SWR was
through the roof on all bands.

Anything more than a few watts, on 80 through 10m, made the radio shut down.
I checked continuity all the way back to the antenna, and everything seems
OK, except the balun shows a dead short on my VOM. However, the antenna
maker says their balun is supposed to show a dead short, and when I took the
antenna back down I could find nothing else wrong with it (no damaged
insulation, all connections weatherproofed to the max, not that it had been
up long enough to get wet, etc).

Except for power and phone lines running along the back property line (and
the slinky antenna I put up later is no further away from those than the
Windom was, and I am having no problems with it), there was nothing metallic
nearby to detune the antenna, and even if there was, I can't imagine even
that would create the high SWR I am seeing.

I called the manufacturer up and after telling me there was nothing wrong
with the antenna based on what I told them, they just said to send the
antenna back to them and they would "check it out".

We finally get to my question. I have been working on getting an antenna for
weeks, and am tired of fooling with assorted vendors (have dealt with
several during this process, and none have impressed me).

Given how much I will pay out further on shipping the antenna both ways and
the like, I am wondering if I would be better off simply buying a decent 4:1
balun, replace the existing "matching transformer" with it, and use the rest
of the antenna components (wire, coax, RF choke), and if so, is this more
likely to work? Based on my research, the original Windom antenna design
used a 4:1 balun, and the wire lengths of the antenna I bought look to be
pretty close to specs per that design, which is why I suggest this option.

Unfortunately I am no antenna guru, and even with all the information I've
found on the Windom, the data is a bit ambiguous on this point. So, before I
throw any more good money after bad, I would appreciate any help you all
could give me in this matter. Thanks and 73.

PS What to take out of my email address to make it work is pretty
obvious...



  #10   Report Post  
Old April 28th 04, 01:08 PM
Stef
 
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Don't forget to check your coax and connectors.
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