In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Sorta. I have problems securely attaching connectors to RG-213/u.
Unlike the rigid and semi-rigid cables, crimp type connectors are
problematic. In addition, much of the RG-213/u floating around is NOT
silver plated, but bare copper. That will corrode, and form diodes.

Yeah, you have to make sure you're getting the "good stuff", with
silver-plated copper braid... and then (I think) solder, rather
than crimp.

Interesting. I always hear people bragging about LMR. Are we using the
term "Heliax" generically? Is semi-flex no good too, (It's all aluminum
and brass metallically isn't it?)

A picture is worth 1000 words:
Heliax:
http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=heliax
LMR type coax:
http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=LMR+coax

I've never heard of semi-flex. Perhaps you mean semi-rigid coax,
which includes aluminum outer jacket coax as used in the CATV
industry? The coax is fine, but where it transitions to a brass or
silver plated connector, there's a problem. In general, it's a bad
idea for reducing PIM (although I use CATV coax because I'm cheap).

See http://www.isoconnector.com/cableassemblies.html - "semi-rigid"
and "semi-flex" are different constructions.

Cramolin is now DeOxit and has been reformulated.

Well, sorta and sorta not. Cramolin is still made by the original
(German) manufacturer, but isn't easily acquired in the U.S. DeOxIt
is made by Caig, who used to import Cramolin but are now making a
similar product themselves.

It's a total disaster on RF connectors because it contains oleic acid,
which is great for removing oxides from electrical contacts, but
equally good at rotting off the plating from connectors over long time
periods. The reformulated DeOxit allegedly contains a different
anti-oxidant, which allegedly has the same effect.

My recollection is that the instructions which came with Cramolin said
that you should clean the remains of the "red" Cramolin (the oxide
remover) off of the contacts after de-oxidizing.

They made another "blue" product which was intended to provide some
residual anti-re-tarnishing protection... I think it was based on palm
oil.

When I use Cramolin (I still have a bit of the concentrate) or DeOxIt
on contacts, I follow it with a final cleaning using isopropyl or
denatured alcohol (or acetone if I'm feeling really thorough), to
remove the remains of the anti-oxidant.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

"Dave Platt" wrote in message
...

snip

When I use Cramolin (I still have a bit of the concentrate) or DeOxIt
on contacts, I follow it with a final cleaning using isopropyl or
denatured alcohol (or acetone if I'm feeling really thorough), to
remove the remains of the anti-oxidant.


Isn't there any concern for plastic deterioration from the acetone? When I
read what you wrote, I cringed, having seen acetone's effect on (some)
plastics. Keeping a few four-leaf clovers on the bench?

73,
Sal

When I use Cramolin (I still have a bit of the concentrate) or DeOxIt
on contacts, I follow it with a final cleaning using isopropyl or
denatured alcohol (or acetone if I'm feeling really thorough), to
remove the remains of the anti-oxidant.


Isn't there any concern for plastic deterioration from the acetone? When I
read what you wrote, I cringed, having seen acetone's effect on (some)
plastics. Keeping a few four-leaf clovers on the bench?

It depends on what sort of thing I'm cleaning. You're correct... I
don't use acetone on anything plastic.

Depending on the plastic, either an alcohol, or a light petroleum
solvent (Stoddard solvent, naptha, etc.) is a safer "wash".

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

On Sun, 11 Sep 2011 10:57:31 -0700, (Dave Platt)
wrote:

See http://www.isoconnector.com/cableassemblies.html - "semi-rigid"
and "semi-flex" are different constructions.

Thanks. I've been calling both types semi-rigid, which is wrong.

They made another "blue" product which was intended to provide some
residual anti-re-tarnishing protection... I think it was based on palm
oil.

No clue on the oil, but my guess would be cheaper mineral oil and some
solvent to wash off any residue from Cramolin red. I've never used
(or seen) Cramolin Blue.

When I use Cramolin (I still have a bit of the concentrate) or DeOxIt
on contacts, I follow it with a final cleaning using isopropyl or
denatured alcohol (or acetone if I'm feeling really thorough), to
remove the remains of the anti-oxidant.

I use 409 cleaner, which has a pH of about 11, or ammonia window
cleaner, both of which should neutralize the acid. Acetone will make
a mess of anything plastic and really is overkill. For open frame
relays, I sometime use electroless silver to replate the contacts. I
also have a diy silver brush plating kit, which I use large contacts.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

In article ,
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

When I use Cramolin (I still have a bit of the concentrate) or DeOxIt
on contacts, I follow it with a final cleaning using isopropyl or
denatured alcohol (or acetone if I'm feeling really thorough), to
remove the remains of the anti-oxidant.

I use 409 cleaner, which has a pH of about 11, or ammonia window
cleaner, both of which should neutralize the acid. Acetone will make
a mess of anything plastic and really is overkill.

True - it's for metals-only applications.

For open frame
relays, I sometime use electroless silver to replate the contacts.

Is that Cool-Amp (powder), or some form of liquid electroless silver?

I've made up (and use) a homebrew substitute for Cool-Amp - silver
chloride and salt, finely ground, and then rubbed in firmly. Makes a
nice, solderable surface for DIY PC boards.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

On Sun, 11 Sep 2011 16:57:02 -0700, (Dave Platt)
wrote:

For open frame
relays, I sometime use electroless silver to replate the contacts.

Is that Cool-Amp (powder), or some form of liquid electroless silver?

http://www.cool-amp.com/cool_amp.html
That's silver chloride and calcium carbonate powder. $25/oz. Ouch.
I've used Cool-Amp immersion plating (it's not really electroless). It
works well for PCB and contact plating. You might find this of
interest:
http://yarchive.net/electr/pc_board_silver_plating.html

What I have is:
http://www.transene.com/ag.html
I think (not sure) it's a silver nitrate, ammonia, sodium hydroxide,
and who knows what else mix. One catch is that it has to be applied
warm, which is somewhat of a challenge. I'm sure easier to use stuff
exists, but I didn't pay much for the 1 oz bottle which seems to be
lasting forever. When I run out in about 10 years, I'll look at
alternatives.

Mo
http://www.finishing.com/faqs/silverathome.shtml

I've made up (and use) a homebrew substitute for Cool-Amp - silver
chloride and salt, finely ground, and then rubbed in firmly. Makes a
nice, solderable surface for DIY PC boards.

Nice, but don't use salt. Use calcium carbonate instead. Salt
(sodium chloride) might precipitate the silver out at silver chloride.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558