On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 09:53:51 -0500, " Tuuk" wrote:

Bingo

You are absolutely right. There is a reset button hidden between those two
terminals in the upper limit switch in that heat chamber.

Wow, nothing I read in my manuals said anything about that reset button. And
I paid a technician to come in and diagnose what was wrong, he told me to
clean out the condensing housing there, re-silicone that as that may be
clogged up but it wasn't and I did that. He also told me he was 99% sure it
was a failed board and for him to replace was 300 plus the board, I
purchased a board for 80 and did it myself and dam, same problem existed.


Excellent. Sorry I didn't see the thread sooner, it would have saved a lot of
time and money. You will probably want to keep the board. Most places won't
accept returns on electrical parts. It's too easy for someone to swap their
defective part for the new one and try to return it. People try that more often
than you would believe.

It's not surprising that the "technician" told you it was the timer board. Look
at what it cost, and what he was going to charge for it. In most areas, there is
no licensing or certification necessary at all for someone to repair furnaces.
If someone presents you with an expensive repair estimate, always get a second
opinion. It might be worth the price of a service call to discover that you
really don't need it after all. Ask family, friends and neighbors who they use,
how many times they had to call them, and were they satisfied.

Glad I could be of help.

Bob KB2ZGN

On 12/21/2011 11:27 AM, KB2ZGN wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 09:53:51 -0500, " wrote:

Bingo

You are absolutely right. There is a reset button hidden between those two
terminals in the upper limit switch in that heat chamber.

Wow, nothing I read in my manuals said anything about that reset button. And
I paid a technician to come in and diagnose what was wrong, he told me to
clean out the condensing housing there, re-silicone that as that may be
clogged up but it wasn't and I did that. He also told me he was 99% sure it
was a failed board and for him to replace was 300 plus the board, I
purchased a board for 80 and did it myself and dam, same problem existed.


Excellent. Sorry I didn't see the thread sooner, it would have saved a lot of
time and money. You will probably want to keep the board. Most places won't
accept returns on electrical parts. It's too easy for someone to swap their
defective part for the new one and try to return it. People try that more often
than you would believe.

It's not surprising that the "technician" told you it was the timer board. Look
at what it cost, and what he was going to charge for it. In most areas, there is
no licensing or certification necessary at all for someone to repair furnaces.
If someone presents you with an expensive repair estimate, always get a second
opinion. It might be worth the price of a service call to discover that you
really don't need it after all. Ask family, friends and neighbors who they use,
how many times they had to call them, and were they satisfied.

Glad I could be of help.

Bob KB2ZGN

Some of those boards cost silly $$$$$...Even wholesale price.
I always dread having to tell someone they need a new one,
because it's usually a pretty high bill, just because the
price of the part is so high from many of the manufacturer's.
It's usually the dinky fan relays that go TU if one actually
does go bad.
Some companies seems to be semi reasonable.. But some of the
biggest brands like Lennox, Trane, etc.. Ouch... Often around
$225-$250 wholesale just for the part.
You have to be licensed here, but even that doesn't mean the
guy isn't a crook.. :/
They have some companies here that are so big, and have so
much overhead, that they almost have to rip people off to
stay in business. I can think of one in particular here locally
that I hear lots of complaints about. They have a big monster
dispatch center that looks like Mission Control at NASA, lots
of overhead, loads of trucks, etc.. And they have expanded to
other cities in the state.
They rob nearly everyone they deal with.

Absolutely right.

I appreciate all the input, yes it would have cost me a lot and for what
turned out to simply be a resetting of that limit switch.

Good part is that I learned my furnace mechanically inside and out. Only
costs me about 100 and have a spare board now.

But after trying everything I could think of, after bypassing all the
safeties and bypassing things I was just perplexed.

Thanks again

73s






"NM5K" wrote in message
...
On 12/21/2011 11:27 AM, KB2ZGN wrote:
On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 09:53:51 -0500, "
wrote:

Bingo

You are absolutely right. There is a reset button hidden between those
two
terminals in the upper limit switch in that heat chamber.

Wow, nothing I read in my manuals said anything about that reset button.
And
I paid a technician to come in and diagnose what was wrong, he told me
to
clean out the condensing housing there, re-silicone that as that may be
clogged up but it wasn't and I did that. He also told me he was 99% sure
it
was a failed board and for him to replace was 300 plus the board, I
purchased a board for 80 and did it myself and dam, same problem
existed.


Excellent. Sorry I didn't see the thread sooner, it would have saved a
lot of
time and money. You will probably want to keep the board. Most places
won't
accept returns on electrical parts. It's too easy for someone to swap
their
defective part for the new one and try to return it. People try that more
often
than you would believe.

It's not surprising that the "technician" told you it was the timer
board. Look
at what it cost, and what he was going to charge for it. In most areas,
there is
no licensing or certification necessary at all for someone to repair
furnaces.
If someone presents you with an expensive repair estimate, always get a
second
opinion. It might be worth the price of a service call to discover that
you
really don't need it after all. Ask family, friends and neighbors who
they use,
how many times they had to call them, and were they satisfied.

Glad I could be of help.

Bob KB2ZGN

Some of those boards cost silly $$$$$...Even wholesale price.
I always dread having to tell someone they need a new one,
because it's usually a pretty high bill, just because the
price of the part is so high from many of the manufacturer's.
It's usually the dinky fan relays that go TU if one actually
does go bad.
Some companies seems to be semi reasonable.. But some of the
biggest brands like Lennox, Trane, etc.. Ouch... Often around
$225-$250 wholesale just for the part.
You have to be licensed here, but even that doesn't mean the
guy isn't a crook.. :/
They have some companies here that are so big, and have so
much overhead, that they almost have to rip people off to
stay in business. I can think of one in particular here locally
that I hear lots of complaints about. They have a big monster
dispatch center that looks like Mission Control at NASA, lots
of overhead, loads of trucks, etc.. And they have expanded to
other cities in the state.
They rob nearly everyone they deal with.

On 12/21/2011 4:35 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Absolutely right.

I appreciate all the input, yes it would have cost me a lot and for what
turned out to simply be a resetting of that limit switch.

Good part is that I learned my furnace mechanically inside and out. Only
costs me about 100 and have a spare board now.

But after trying everything I could think of, after bypassing all the
safeties and bypassing things I was just perplexed.

Thanks again

73s

The only thing I wonder about is why it tripped the limit..
I'd keep an eye out on it for a while.. Make sure the fan
never quits running when it should be, doesn't start slowing
down from normal speed, filter clean, etc..
Of course, if there is some problem, it will just trip again,
and you might be able to get an idea what is causing it.

I've already listed most of the things that could cause that.
In the majority of cases, it's the blower motor going kaput.
Then again, maybe it was just a fluke.. @#$% happens sometimes..

I said before that I didn't want you to burn your house down,
but actually it's almost impossible with all the safety devices
those things have. So you really don't have much to worry about
if something does cause it to overheat in the future.

Hey, Thanks for the good advice.

I recently installed a sauna and spa on the same floor, it just happened to
be that particular evening that the limit switch tripped when I had used
those two units so I think I got a lot of humidity and heat in that
basement. Then I also had to remove the intake pipe supplying the fresh air
from outside because I had to move something else so that pipe was off and
it was sucking in air from that room for combustion. Also, the heat supply
ducting inspection plate had been removed from that room because I wanted to
add some heat into that room. When I feel that intake area near the tripped
limit switch, it is very warm. Now that I have re-connected everything it is
cold. So maybe those scinarios had direct responsibility for tripping that
limit switch. That is what I am thinking. I think too much heat in that
chamber caused it to trip. Doing its job. Hasn't tripped yet after about 6
hours of operation on and off.

Thanks again






"NM5K" wrote in message
...
On 12/21/2011 4:35 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Absolutely right.

I appreciate all the input, yes it would have cost me a lot and for what
turned out to simply be a resetting of that limit switch.

Good part is that I learned my furnace mechanically inside and out. Only
costs me about 100 and have a spare board now.

But after trying everything I could think of, after bypassing all the
safeties and bypassing things I was just perplexed.

Thanks again

73s

The only thing I wonder about is why it tripped the limit..
I'd keep an eye out on it for a while.. Make sure the fan
never quits running when it should be, doesn't start slowing
down from normal speed, filter clean, etc..
Of course, if there is some problem, it will just trip again,
and you might be able to get an idea what is causing it.

I've already listed most of the things that could cause that.
In the majority of cases, it's the blower motor going kaput.
Then again, maybe it was just a fluke.. @#$% happens sometimes..

I said before that I didn't want you to burn your house down,
but actually it's almost impossible with all the safety devices
those things have. So you really don't have much to worry about
if something does cause it to overheat in the future.

On Wed, 21 Dec 2011 17:35:00 -0500, Tuuk wrote:

Absolutely right.

I appreciate all the input, yes it would have cost me a lot and for what
turned out to simply be a resetting of that limit switch.

Good part is that I learned my furnace mechanically inside and out. Only
costs me about 100 and have a spare board now.

But after trying everything I could think of, after bypassing all the
safeties and bypassing things I was just perplexed.

Thanks again

73s

You came to the right place, apparently. 73

On 12/21/2011 6:07 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Hey, Thanks for the good advice.

I recently installed a sauna and spa on the same floor, it just happened
to be that particular evening that the limit switch tripped when I had
used those two units so I think I got a lot of humidity and heat in that
basement. Then I also had to remove the intake pipe supplying the fresh
air from outside because I had to move something else so that pipe was
off and it was sucking in air from that room for combustion. Also, the
heat supply ducting inspection plate had been removed from that room
because I wanted to add some heat into that room. When I feel that
intake area near the tripped limit switch, it is very warm. Now that I
have re-connected everything it is cold. So maybe those scinarios had
direct responsibility for tripping that limit switch. That is what I am
thinking. I think too much heat in that chamber caused it to trip. Doing
its job. Hasn't tripped yet after about 6 hours of operation on and off.

That was probably the problem. Shouldn't have been a severe overheat,
but maybe enough to push it slightly over the edge as far as the limit.
I doubt you will have any more problems if it's run OK so far.

Thanks again Hams

Really appreciate your advice here on this topic. I now know more about my
furnace than the licenced quaified repair techinician who I paid to diagnose
the problem. That is true because I took the couse HVAC engineering about 20
years ago and spent years doing heat lose heat gain caclulations for
industry. But never knew there was a simple little dimple reset button in
the stragest place. Dam.

Now I know and there is nothing on this unit I cannot repair myself.
Servicing and cleaning is easy.

Sorry I upset a few of the hams, I know it is off topic however there is no
groups on my server that are active, this one is so sorry I upset some hams
with my off topic question but I know there is a lot of knowledge in this
group,,, and I am thankful for that.

73s and happy holidays.





"NM5K" wrote in message
...
On 12/21/2011 6:07 PM, Tuuk wrote:
Hey, Thanks for the good advice.

I recently installed a sauna and spa on the same floor, it just happened
to be that particular evening that the limit switch tripped when I had
used those two units so I think I got a lot of humidity and heat in that
basement. Then I also had to remove the intake pipe supplying the fresh
air from outside because I had to move something else so that pipe was
off and it was sucking in air from that room for combustion. Also, the
heat supply ducting inspection plate had been removed from that room
because I wanted to add some heat into that room. When I feel that
intake area near the tripped limit switch, it is very warm. Now that I
have re-connected everything it is cold. So maybe those scinarios had
direct responsibility for tripping that limit switch. That is what I am
thinking. I think too much heat in that chamber caused it to trip. Doing
its job. Hasn't tripped yet after about 6 hours of operation on and off.

That was probably the problem. Shouldn't have been a severe overheat,
but maybe enough to push it slightly over the edge as far as the limit.
I doubt you will have any more problems if it's run OK so far.