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On 1/10/2014 7:01 PM, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Jeff Liebermann writes On Thu, 9 Jan 2014 21:08:11 -0800, "Sal" salmonella@food poisoning.org wrote: Another experiment I ran (back around 1975) was to take 100 feet of cable and measure the loss, then repeat the measurement using a different 100 feet made from ten different pieces. Yup, the loss was about 3 dB more, indicative of an average 0.3 dB loss per joint, neatly within the range you specified. 0.3dB per connector at what frequency? This is more fun: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/connector-loss/index.html Just take every connector that you can find, put them in series, and measure the loss. In this case, it was done at 2.4Ghz and 450MHz. End to end loss at 2.4GHz was 2dB for about 25 adapters or about 0.08dB per adapter. At 250MHz, the loss was about 0.2dB or 0.008dB per adapter. I've done similar demonstrations using two wattmeters at the local radio club meeting. The results are typically that the adapter string has the same loss as an equivalent length of small coax cable. I had a surplus of BNC T connectors, so a strung about 50 of them in series and obtained similar results. Bottom line: Connectors and adapters aren't as evil as the data sheets and literature suggest. I've always assumed that the loss measured through connectors and adapters was mainly (a) because they have unavoidable length (ie not a lot), and (b) because the impedance match through them is less than perfect (ie not a lot). The ohmic contact resistance may also be a tiny tad higher than the same length of coax (even less). The main loss in a connector is due to the impedance bump at the connector. This can be easily seen on a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometry) display. Some connectors are better than others; for instance, the older F connectors which are crimped down with a ring are the worst. Next is the connector where the crimp is a hex crimp - it doesn't give a consistent impedance around the connector. The best (and the ones we use) compress the entire base of the connector evenly, creating a smooth crimp. The end of the coax is evenly covered by the connector. The other problem is the technician installing the connectors. I've seen great ones, and not-so-great ones. There are a lot of chances for going wrong - for instance, it's easy to screw up the braid when trying to insert a crimp-on connector under the outer jacket and shield. And soldering connectors (i.e. PL-259 and N) is almost sure to give you a huge bump (and loss) because it's almost impossible to solder the shield without melting the inner insulator to some point. It may not short out, but that doesn't mean you don't have loss there. -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry, AI0K ================== |
#2
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On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:36:59 -0500, Jerry Stuckle
wrote: The main loss in a connector is due to the impedance bump at the connector. This can be easily seen on a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometry) display. Rubbish. Let's pretend that I mix in a 75 ohm coax connector into a 50 ohm system. Depending on the location of this "impedance bump", the VSWR is no more than 1.5:1 which is generally considered marginal. That's 0.18dB of mismatch loss. http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/calvswr.cfm If you're doing satellite or microwave DX work, then 0.18dB might be important. However, for most other applications, it's a trivial amount. You might be amused to know that most of my rooftop antennas are fed with 75 ohm coax and that my favored antenna designs are also 75 ohm. There are various reasons, but the main one is that coax cable losses are less at 75 ohms, than at 50 ohms. 50 ohms can handle more power, but 75 ohms has less loss. http://www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm The only problems I have with 75 ohms is finding the proper connectors and dealing with the pads needed to make my 50 ohm test equipment look like 75 ohms. (Actually the real reason is that the 75 ohm stuff is mostly CATV surplus, which tends to be really cheap). Mo http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/75_ohm_hardline.html Some connectors are better than others; for instance, the older F connectors which are crimped down with a ring are the worst. Next is the connector where the crimp is a hex crimp - it doesn't give a consistent impedance around the connector. I rip those out wherever I find them, even if they're on the ends of commercially crimped cables (usually RG-59/u which is another nightmare). However, the loss mechanism with the old CATV coax and associated crappy crimp connectors was radiation, not mismatch loss. The ground connections would fall apart, turning the coax shield into an impressive antenna. The best (and the ones we use) compress the entire base of the connector evenly, creating a smooth crimp. The end of the coax is evenly covered by the connector. I've had problems with some of those push-on connectors. I also don't want to stock a zillion different connector variations from different vendors. So, I've standardized on the "red" univeral T&B SNS1P6U RG-6/u connectors: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=SNS1P6U The other problem is the technician installing the connectors. I've seen great ones, and not-so-great ones. There are a lot of chances for going wrong - for instance, it's easy to screw up the braid when trying to insert a crimp-on connector under the outer jacket and shield. And soldering connectors (i.e. PL-259 and N) is almost sure to give you a huge bump (and loss) because it's almost impossible to solder the shield without melting the inner insulator to some point. It may not short out, but that doesn't mean you don't have loss there. Actually, it's not the crimp job that kills the connection. It's the stripping of the coax that causes the most problems. I use various rotary contrivances that have razor blades to make the cuts at the correct spacing. Those work well initially, but after about 50 connectors, the blades become dull and useless. Of course, nobody has spare blades or knows how to adjust them. They either continue to use a dull razor or steal my new stripper. Oops... dinner... gone. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#3
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![]() "Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message ... On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:36:59 -0500, Jerry Stuckle Actually, it's not the crimp job that kills the connection. It's the stripping of the coax that causes the most problems. I use various rotary contrivances that have razor blades to make the cuts at the correct spacing. Those work well initially, but after about 50 connectors, the blades become dull and useless. Of course, nobody has spare blades or knows how to adjust them. They either continue to use a dull razor or steal my new stripper. I don't know the quality of the cutters you use, but I have bought several from China off ebay for about $ 2 each including shipping. For the very few connectors I do, they work. At that price, you could order a lot of them and not worry about the replacement blades. Just like the disposiable razors. They seem identical to the ones that sell in stores for $ 10 to $ 15 . --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#4
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On 1/10/2014 10:23 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message ... On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:36:59 -0500, Jerry Stuckle Actually, it's not the crimp job that kills the connection. It's the stripping of the coax that causes the most problems. I use various rotary contrivances that have razor blades to make the cuts at the correct spacing. Those work well initially, but after about 50 connectors, the blades become dull and useless. Of course, nobody has spare blades or knows how to adjust them. They either continue to use a dull razor or steal my new stripper. I don't know the quality of the cutters you use, but I have bought several from China off ebay for about $ 2 each including shipping. For the very few connectors I do, they work. At that price, you could order a lot of them and not worry about the replacement blades. Just like the disposiable razors. They seem identical to the ones that sell in stores for $ 10 to $ 15 . Ralph, They may seem identical, but they aren't. The $10-15 ones last much, much longer. However, unless you're doing it full time, it probably doesn't pay to get the more expensive ones. We tried one of the cheap ones. After about 3 weeks the tech threw it as far as he could because he was so frustrated. The ones we have now typically last a year or more (we don't really track them). -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry, AI0K ================== |
#5
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![]() "Jerry Stuckle" wrote in message ... , They may seem identical, but they aren't. The $10-15 ones last much, much longer. However, unless you're doing it full time, it probably doesn't pay to get the more expensive ones. We tried one of the cheap ones. After about 3 weeks the tech threw it as far as he could because he was so frustrated. The ones we have now typically last a year or more (we don't really track them). You probably do more connectors in a week than I will ever do. For me , it won't pay, but for you it will if they last that much longer. Must be the quality of the blades as I can not tell any differance in the couple I bought from China for $ 2 and the one I bought here for $ 15. I just bought one for each size and type of cable I use. I don't do the TV connectors, just the BNC,N,PL259 types. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#6
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On 1/10/2014 11:39 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jerry Stuckle" wrote in message ... , They may seem identical, but they aren't. The $10-15 ones last much, much longer. However, unless you're doing it full time, it probably doesn't pay to get the more expensive ones. We tried one of the cheap ones. After about 3 weeks the tech threw it as far as he could because he was so frustrated. The ones we have now typically last a year or more (we don't really track them). You probably do more connectors in a week than I will ever do. For me , it won't pay, but for you it will if they last that much longer. Must be the quality of the blades as I can not tell any differance in the couple I bought from China for $ 2 and the one I bought here for $ 15. I just bought one for each size and type of cable I use. I don't do the TV connectors, just the BNC,N,PL259 types. Yup, one tech can do upwards of 50 connectors a day on a large project. Mostly F and RJ-45, but also some RCA and others. It counts up quickly! ![]() -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry, AI0K ================== |
#7
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On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 22:23:17 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote: "Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message .. . On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:36:59 -0500, Jerry Stuckle Actually, it's not the crimp job that kills the connection. It's the stripping of the coax that causes the most problems. I use various rotary contrivances that have razor blades to make the cuts at the correct spacing. Those work well initially, but after about 50 connectors, the blades become dull and useless. Of course, nobody has spare blades or knows how to adjust them. They either continue to use a dull razor or steal my new stripper. I don't know the quality of the cutters you use, but I have bought several from China off ebay for about $ 2 each including shipping. For the very few connectors I do, they work. At that price, you could order a lot of them and not worry about the replacement blades. Just like the disposiable razors. They seem identical to the ones that sell in stores for $ 10 to $ 15 . Those are the same cutters that I like to use. Good, cheap, easy to use, and throw away when dull. (I've tried resharpening the blades with poor results). This style is my favorite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400525856013 but these also work and are usually cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360806269903 There are other designs, but I haven't used them. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#8
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On 1/10/2014 9:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 19:36:59 -0500, Jerry Stuckle wrote: The main loss in a connector is due to the impedance bump at the connector. This can be easily seen on a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometry) display. Rubbish. Let's pretend that I mix in a 75 ohm coax connector into a 50 ohm system. Depending on the location of this "impedance bump", the VSWR is no more than 1.5:1 which is generally considered marginal. That's 0.18dB of mismatch loss. http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/calvswr.cfm If you're doing satellite or microwave DX work, then 0.18dB might be important. However, for most other applications, it's a trivial amount. That's theoretical. Reality is much different. Have you ever worked with a TDR? It's one of the tools we use regularly (and an expensive one, also). You might be amused to know that most of my rooftop antennas are fed with 75 ohm coax and that my favored antenna designs are also 75 ohm. There are various reasons, but the main one is that coax cable losses are less at 75 ohms, than at 50 ohms. 50 ohms can handle more power, but 75 ohms has less loss. http://www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm The only problems I have with 75 ohms is finding the proper connectors and dealing with the pads needed to make my 50 ohm test equipment look like 75 ohms. (Actually the real reason is that the 75 ohm stuff is mostly CATV surplus, which tends to be really cheap). So? Dipoles aren't 50 ohm antennas. They're typically closer to 75 ohm. As for handling more power - rubbish. The current in 75 ohm coax is lower than that in 50 ohm coax, for the same power rating. Proper connectors are no problem when you can buy from commercial distributors. But we don't typically sell them individually. Mo http://www.qsl.net/n9zia/wireless/75_ohm_hardline.html Some connectors are better than others; for instance, the older F connectors which are crimped down with a ring are the worst. Next is the connector where the crimp is a hex crimp - it doesn't give a consistent impedance around the connector. I rip those out wherever I find them, even if they're on the ends of commercially crimped cables (usually RG-59/u which is another nightmare). However, the loss mechanism with the old CATV coax and associated crappy crimp connectors was radiation, not mismatch loss. The ground connections would fall apart, turning the coax shield into an impressive antenna. We use RG-59 where appropriate, like from an outlet to the set top box. But our in-wall coax runs are all RG-6 quad-shielded. But we're also doing less and less coax and more and more Category cable nowadays. The best (and the ones we use) compress the entire base of the connector evenly, creating a smooth crimp. The end of the coax is evenly covered by the connector. I've had problems with some of those push-on connectors. I also don't want to stock a zillion different connector variations from different vendors. So, I've standardized on the "red" univeral T&B SNS1P6U RG-6/u connectors: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=SNS1P6U They're OK for the hobbyist, but I don't know of any professionals who use them. In fact, checking our main wholesalers, they aren't even available through them (but other Beldon products are). The other problem is the technician installing the connectors. I've seen great ones, and not-so-great ones. There are a lot of chances for going wrong - for instance, it's easy to screw up the braid when trying to insert a crimp-on connector under the outer jacket and shield. And soldering connectors (i.e. PL-259 and N) is almost sure to give you a huge bump (and loss) because it's almost impossible to solder the shield without melting the inner insulator to some point. It may not short out, but that doesn't mean you don't have loss there. Actually, it's not the crimp job that kills the connection. It's the stripping of the coax that causes the most problems. I use various rotary contrivances that have razor blades to make the cuts at the correct spacing. Those work well initially, but after about 50 connectors, the blades become dull and useless. Of course, nobody has spare blades or knows how to adjust them. They either continue to use a dull razor or steal my new stripper. Oops... dinner... gone. Stripping is almost never a problem, unless you're a real klutz. Even if you nick the braid a bit it isn't very critical. We use the same type of rotary stripper - but just because it's much faster. One of our techs can install an F connector in a minute or less with one of them. I never counted how many connections we get out of a stripper, but it's got to be in the thousands. We replace some screwdrivers more often than the strippers ![]() -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry, AI0K ================== |
#9
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On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 22:55:41 -0500, Jerry Stuckle
wrote: That's theoretical. Reality is much different. I think I'll print that on a large piece of paper and have it framed for my office wall. Have you ever worked with a TDR? It's one of the tools we use regularly (and an expensive one, also). Sure. Also OTDR for fiber. I don't use the expensive stuff, unless you include the Acterna HST3000 tester that was stolen from my office a few years ago. Mostly, I built my own using a pulse generator and an oscilloscope. You stated that the losses come primarily from the "impedance bump" presumably produced by the non-50 ohm connector or adapter in the line. Well, time to put that to the test. 1. Take a length of RG-6/u coax with good connectors. Apply signal on one end from a generator. Measure the signal level on the other end with a spectrum analyzer that has a 1dB per division scale. I want to be able to see small changes. 2. After establishing a reference level, either beat on the coax cable with a hammer, squash it with a C-clamp, or flatten it with a bench vise. Squash it just enough to obtain an "impedance bump", but not a short between the center conductor and shield. Note the change in level, if you can see it. 3. Now, either un-squash the cable, or find another length of RG-6/u and attach a TDR. It can be open, shorted, or terminated. Doesn't matter. 4. Flatten the cable in the same manner as before and note the TDR display. What I expect that you'll see is that there will be almost no change in attenuation, while the TDR display will show a rather radical "impedance bump". That's because the only thing that the change in impedance along the cable length can do is create reflections. Those are a serious problem in a CATV system, but really don't involve serious signal level losses. That's theoretical. Reality is much the same. So? Dipoles aren't 50 ohm antennas. They're typically closer to 75 ohm. I guess you missed my point. If you can tolerate the 1.5:1 VSWR, the reduced attenuation and cost of 75 ohm coax makes the effort worthwhile. As for handling more power - rubbish. The current in 75 ohm coax is lower than that in 50 ohm coax, for the same power rating. Please re-read the article: www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/why50ohms.cfm We use RG-59 where appropriate, like from an outlet to the set top box. But our in-wall coax runs are all RG-6 quad-shielded. RG-59/u doesn't have a foil shield, so it's more flexible. So, I guess that might work. For short lengths, the increased leakage, higher ingress, and higher attenuation can probably be tolerated. However, I use extra long RG-6/u, which somewhat compensates for the lack of flexibility. But we're also doing less and less coax and more and more Category cable nowadays. No MoCA installations? http://www.mocalliance.org They're OK for the hobbyist, but I don't know of any professionals who use them. In fact, checking our main wholesalers, they aren't even available through them (but other Beldon products are). Find a different distributor or ask for it by part number. Thomas and Betts SNS1P6U. Quick check: Stocked by Allied, Newark, Tessco, Farnel(UK), MCM. Not stocked by Digikey, Mouser, Arrow. T&B distributor search: http://www.tnb.com/ps/dls/dls?ca=corp -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#10
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On 1/12/2014 12:29 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 22:55:41 -0500, Jerry Stuckle wrote: That's theoretical. Reality is much different. I think I'll print that on a large piece of paper and have it framed for my office wall. Have you ever worked with a TDR? It's one of the tools we use regularly (and an expensive one, also). Sure. Also OTDR for fiber. I don't use the expensive stuff, unless you include the Acterna HST3000 tester that was stolen from my office a few years ago. Mostly, I built my own using a pulse generator and an oscilloscope. I'm not talking about fiber, and I'm not talking about some half-assed gadget cooked up in your basement. I'm talking about a real, professional-grade TDR. We use expensive stuff because it gives accurate results. You stated that the losses come primarily from the "impedance bump" presumably produced by the non-50 ohm connector or adapter in the line. Well, time to put that to the test. I didn't say anything about a non-50 ohm connector. The connector can be 50 ohm and still get an impedance bump. With a TDR you can see every connector on the cable (as long as they are far enough apart - typically 3-4 feet). 1. Take a length of RG-6/u coax with good connectors. Apply signal on one end from a generator. Measure the signal level on the other end with a spectrum analyzer that has a 1dB per division scale. I want to be able to see small changes. 2. After establishing a reference level, either beat on the coax cable with a hammer, squash it with a C-clamp, or flatten it with a bench vise. Squash it just enough to obtain an "impedance bump", but not a short between the center conductor and shield. Note the change in level, if you can see it. 3. Now, either un-squash the cable, or find another length of RG-6/u and attach a TDR. It can be open, shorted, or terminated. Doesn't matter. 4. Flatten the cable in the same manner as before and note the TDR display. What I expect that you'll see is that there will be almost no change in attenuation, while the TDR display will show a rather radical "impedance bump". That's because the only thing that the change in impedance along the cable length can do is create reflections. Those are a serious problem in a CATV system, but really don't involve serious signal level losses. That's theoretical. Reality is much the same. First of all, we don't crush cables to try to emulate something we can easily see in real life. Second of all, you can gimmick up something all you want with signal generators, spectrum analyzers, crushed cables, all you want. We SEE the results in real time in real installations with the appropriate test equipment. So? Dipoles aren't 50 ohm antennas. They're typically closer to 75 ohm. I guess you missed my point. If you can tolerate the 1.5:1 VSWR, the reduced attenuation and cost of 75 ohm coax makes the effort worthwhile. No, it's worthwhile because your coax will more closely match the antenna. And you can easily match the coax to the transmitter with a tuner. As for handling more power - rubbish. The current in 75 ohm coax is lower than that in 50 ohm coax, for the same power rating. Please re-read the article: www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/why50ohms.cfm I read the article. Unlike you, I understand what it is saying. We use RG-59 where appropriate, like from an outlet to the set top box. But our in-wall coax runs are all RG-6 quad-shielded. RG-59/u doesn't have a foil shield, so it's more flexible. So, I guess that might work. For short lengths, the increased leakage, higher ingress, and higher attenuation can probably be tolerated. However, I use extra long RG-6/u, which somewhat compensates for the lack of flexibility. You don't know our installations. We've been in business for several years, with lots of satisfied customers. Trying to tell a professional what their job is only makes you look stupid. But we're also doing less and less coax and more and more Category cable nowadays. No MoCA installations? http://www.mocalliance.org Nope. It's used by few professionals. Coax ends up with too many problems. Category cable for runs under 100M or so and fiber for longer runs. They're OK for the hobbyist, but I don't know of any professionals who use them. In fact, checking our main wholesalers, they aren't even available through them (but other Beldon products are). Find a different distributor or ask for it by part number. Thomas and Betts SNS1P6U. We use several distributors - both U.S. and international companies. Quick check: Stocked by Allied, Newark, Tessco, Farnel(UK), MCM. Not stocked by Digikey, Mouser, Arrow. T&B distributor search: http://www.tnb.com/ps/dls/dls?ca=corp These are consumer (retail) outlets. They are not used by most professionals. -- ================== Remove the "x" from my email address Jerry Stuckle ================== |
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