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#1
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Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote: Thanks Ralph, I guess that is exactly what is what I do not understand yet. I was just assuming that connecting the cone/shield to earth ground would change the characteristics of the cone into (what I had assumed would be) a ground plane. Extending this concept outside of discones, and applying it to a dipole, could you also directly feed a dipole, ground the shield, and still have it behave as a 1/2 wave dipole? Additionally, when does the need for a balun to transition between a balanced line and coax arise? For the halfwave antenna I am going to assume that you mean one that is horizontal and up in the air some distance,then you use coax cable to come into the shack. You can connect the shield of the coax anywhere from right at the feed point (which would not be practical) to a point near the transceiver to the earth. I was actually thinking of a vertical dipole, as it's what I have on my roof right now (an old set of rabbit ears, so I can listen to airband while I get the discone built and figure out a proper mast setup). A balun is mainly used to connect a ballanced antenna to an unballanced line like coax cable. The balun is a contraction of BALanced to UNbalance. Aha, thanks, I've been wondering about that for awhile now. They are not always needed, but may or may not help. A simple 1/2 wave dipole is a balanced antenna as each side is the same. Theory says to use a balun to keep the feed line from becomming a part of the antenna. I and many others have up dipoles that do not have baluns and they work fine. Good to know, thanks. I'm using a 300:75 converter up there right now (twinlead from the rabbit ears to the coax), I think I'll take it off and see if it makes any difference. Baluns are often used on beam antennas so the radiation patern will not be distorted. Unless using an antenna tuner that has a built in balun or is designed for the open wire feedlines a balun is used to feed the coax connector of the transceiver. Most often it will be a 4:1 ratio to change the 300 to 600 ohm feedline to closer to 50 ohms to match the transceiver. So they'll mostly be located by the transceiver instead of up on the mast? A ground plane is unbalanced as the elements are not equal and so a balun would not do any good. Same as the discone you were asking about , no balun is needed as this is an unbalanced antenna. There is another thing that is often referred to as a choke balun, which is not actually a balun. It can be several turns of coax coiled up or a piece of coax with some of the ferrite beads over it. Yeah, I've seen the chokes on some antennas made by forming a coil from the coax. Thanks Ralph, Jon |
#2
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![]() "Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... I was actually thinking of a vertical dipole, as it's what I have on my roof right now (an old set of rabbit ears, so I can listen to airband while I get the discone built and figure out a proper mast setup). Ok on the vertical dipole. For this antenna you need to run the feedline horizontal from it for a couple of feet and then down. The impedance of this antenna should be around 70 ohms and if I were you , I would use some 70 ohm rg-6 coax back to the receiver. Good to know, thanks. I'm using a 300:75 converter up there right now (twinlead from the rabbit ears to the coax), I think I'll take it off and see if it makes any difference. The 300:75 converter is actually a balun that has a 4 to 1 ratio. It normally does 2 things, changes a 300 ohm to 75 ohm inpedance such as many TV antennaas were set for 300 ohms so the twin lead could be used. As things changed over the years, the newer TV sets had a 70 ohm input for the coax cable. The 300:70 could be used either way, 300 ohm antenna to coax or coax to the old 300 ohm input of the TV. Removing it from the vertical dipole (70 ohm inpedance) and using coax to the receiver will probably help. So they'll mostly be located by the transceiver instead of up on the mast? The baluns can be used either place. Most often at the antenna if coax is used and at the transceiver if open wire (twinlead) is used, I have been using the 70 and 75 ohms without paying much attention. They are close enough it does not mater. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#3
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Ralph Mowery wrote:
Ok on the vertical dipole. For this antenna you need to run the feedline horizontal from it for a couple of feet and then down. The impedance of this antenna should be around 70 ohms and if I were you , I would use some 70 ohm rg-6 coax back to the receiver. The 300:75 converter is actually a balun that has a 4 to 1 ratio. It normally does 2 things, changes a 300 ohm to 75 ohm inpedance such as many TV antennaas were set for 300 ohms so the twin lead could be used. As things changed over the years, the newer TV sets had a 70 ohm input for the coax cable. The 300:70 could be used either way, 300 ohm antenna to coax or coax to the old 300 ohm input of the TV. Removing it from the vertical dipole (70 ohm inpedance) and using coax to the receiver will probably help. Thanks Ralph, I'll try that this weekend and see what the results are (I have scads of RG6). Speaking of cable impedance, will I see much of a difference using 70 ohm cable on an 50 ohm antenna? Assuming less than 50 feed of distance, does it really matter that much? The baluns can be used either place. Most often at the antenna if coax is used and at the transceiver if open wire (twinlead) is used, I have been using the 70 and 75 ohms without paying much attention. They are close enough it does not mater. Jon |
#4
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![]() "Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... Thanks Ralph, I'll try that this weekend and see what the results are (I have scads of RG6). Speaking of cable impedance, will I see much of a difference using 70 ohm cable on an 50 ohm antenna? Assuming less than 50 feed of distance, does it really matter that much? YOu will not see any differance using either the 50 or 70 ohm cable due to impedance. You may see some due to the actual loss of the cable. For example rg-58 (50 ohm) will have more loss than rg-6, but if you go to a lower loss 50 ohm cable such as rg-8 then the cable loss will be less. For 50 feet and receiving only, I would use the rg-6 as you said you have plenty of it. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#5
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On 03/21/2014 08:40 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... Thanks Ralph, I'll try that this weekend and see what the results are (I have scads of RG6). Speaking of cable impedance, will I see much of a difference using 70 ohm cable on an 50 ohm antenna? Assuming less than 50 feed of distance, does it really matter that much? YOu will not see any differance using either the 50 or 70 ohm cable due to impedance. You may see some due to the actual loss of the cable. For example rg-58 (50 ohm) will have more loss than rg-6, but if you go to a lower loss 50 ohm cable such as rg-8 then the cable loss will be less. For 50 feet and receiving only, I would use the rg-6 as you said you have plenty of it. Thanks Ralph, that will be my plan. Jon |
#6
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On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:54:51 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote: Speaking of cable impedance, will I see much of a difference using 70 ohm cable on an 50 ohm antenna? Assuming less than 50 feed of distance, does it really matter that much? I use 75 ohm coax for most everything and recommend using 75 ohm cable. It has less loss per length than the equivalent size 50 ohm coax. It's also cheaper and more available. Like you, I have piles of the stuff scrounged from CATV "surplus". Biggest headache are the adapters needed to go from (waterproof) F-connectors and BNC/UHF/N connectors. Some of my RG-6a/u cables now have BNC connectors instead of F-connectors, which helps a little. I still prefer the cheaper F-connectors. Another headache is interfacing with 50 ohm test equipment. I used to have a pile of elaborate pads, and simple 25 ohm resistor in series adapters. Unless I'm working with very low losses and measurements to 3 decimal places, or am trying to work with low VSWR systems, mixing impedances doesn't seem to matter much. I've also measured various pads from my collection at both 50 and 75 ohms, and found about 0.3dB difference, which is about the accuracy of my pads. These days, I just ignore the problem and use the pads interchangeably. Incidentally, the usually quoted 0.18dB mismatch loss is based on the assumption that the antenna and the transmitter are both 50 ohms, and that only the coax cable is 75 ohms. 0.18dB is the loss at one end of the cable, not both. Worst case is twice the loss, or 0.36dB. Since the antenna will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms, we can ignore that end. The receiver input impedance is also not a perfect 50 ohms, so that can also be ignored. Bottom line is to not worry about the whole mismatch loss question. More on 50 versus 75 ohms: http://www.solred.com.ar/lu6etj/tecnicos/En_75.htm http://www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/why50ohms.cfm http://www.dkdinst.com/articles/50ohmnotes.html -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#7
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On 03/21/2014 08:49 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:54:51 -0700, Jon Danniken wrote: Speaking of cable impedance, will I see much of a difference using 70 ohm cable on an 50 ohm antenna? Assuming less than 50 feed of distance, does it really matter that much? I use 75 ohm coax for most everything and recommend using 75 ohm cable. It has less loss per length than the equivalent size 50 ohm coax. It's also cheaper and more available. Like you, I have piles of the stuff scrounged from CATV "surplus". Biggest headache are the adapters needed to go from (waterproof) F-connectors and BNC/UHF/N connectors. Some of my RG-6a/u cables now have BNC connectors instead of F-connectors, which helps a little. I still prefer the cheaper F-connectors. I have a couple dozen BNC ends, but I need to get some female/bulkhead connectors to go along with them. Another headache is interfacing with 50 ohm test equipment. I used to have a pile of elaborate pads, and simple 25 ohm resistor in series adapters. Unless I'm working with very low losses and measurements to 3 decimal places, or am trying to work with low VSWR systems, mixing impedances doesn't seem to matter much. I've also measured various pads from my collection at both 50 and 75 ohms, and found about 0.3dB difference, which is about the accuracy of my pads. These days, I just ignore the problem and use the pads interchangeably. Incidentally, the usually quoted 0.18dB mismatch loss is based on the assumption that the antenna and the transmitter are both 50 ohms, and that only the coax cable is 75 ohms. 0.18dB is the loss at one end of the cable, not both. Worst case is twice the loss, or 0.36dB. Since the antenna will be closer to 75 ohms than 50 ohms, we can ignore that end. The receiver input impedance is also not a perfect 50 ohms, so that can also be ignored. Bottom line is to not worry about the whole mismatch loss question. More on 50 versus 75 ohms: http://www.solred.com.ar/lu6etj/tecnicos/En_75.htm http://www.belden.com/blog/broadcastav/50-Ohms-The-Forgotten-Impedance.cfm http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/why50ohms.cfm http://www.dkdinst.com/articles/50ohmnotes.html Great links, thanks Jeff. Jon |
#8
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On 03/21/2014 07:54 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
Ralph Mowery wrote: Ok on the vertical dipole. For this antenna you need to run the feedline horizontal from it for a couple of feet and then down. The impedance of this antenna should be around 70 ohms and if I were you , I would use some 70 ohm rg-6 coax back to the receiver. The 300:75 converter is actually a balun that has a 4 to 1 ratio. It normally does 2 things, changes a 300 ohm to 75 ohm inpedance such as many TV antennaas were set for 300 ohms so the twin lead could be used. As things changed over the years, the newer TV sets had a 70 ohm input for the coax cable. The 300:70 could be used either way, 300 ohm antenna to coax or coax to the old 300 ohm input of the TV. Removing it from the vertical dipole (70 ohm inpedance) and using coax to the receiver will probably help. Thanks Ralph, I'll try that this weekend and see what the results are (I have scads of RG6). Well, I got up on the roof and reconfigured the antenna today, and got a nice improvement from my setup. Unfortunately I wasn't very scientific about figuring out what made the big difference, but I did remove the 4:1 balun and ran the coax out horizonally for ~1/4 wavelength. I also soldered the old crimp connection at the base of the elements; they were reading about six ohms from the twinlead to the tips before, now the resistance is low enough to not be measured by my DMM. After the work today, noise is down ~10dB, and I can make out a lot more transmissions, with much higher clarity, than I could before. I still occasionally get a transmission with a strong signal that sounds garbled, but everything else is coming in very nicely. Thanks for the suggestions, they paid off. Jon |
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