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#1
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Hello. I spent a night building a portable longwire out of scrap acetal,
stainless steel wire and a few other scrap parts. It works well but not as fast to use as I'd like, and the shape for stowing means it's not a circular coil and there is no guide to keep it winding easily without overrunning the edge of the former. To make something that can be set up and taken down so easily I could do it at a run, I looked at two existing widgets that might do very well: Centrepin fishing reels, and kite winders. I settled on the kite winder as being slightly cheaper, more durable, etc.. eBay listing 270879102395 shows the one I'm interested in. I haven't bought it yet, because a question remains... Assuming I start at some tree on open ground and run the wire to where I want to set up the receiver, I will usually leave some wire on the reel. The reel is about 28 cm wide, about 25 mm along axis, and entirely made of stainless steel. Is the metal attached to the antenna wire in this way going to affect its ability too much, even if I take care to prevent electrical contact with the ground? Alternatively, I can lay in an plastic channel inside the reel to insulate the wire from the rest of the reel, and modify the guide to contact the wire while insulating it from the bulk of the wheel, which in turn might make a convenience of a connector mounted on its chassis, so the bulk metal becomes part of the ground, but then the question is this: Would the capacitance formed across that insulating channel be enough to adversely affect the longwire performance, bearing in mind that as well as LW I'm also interested in using this method to listen to HF up to around 20 MHz too? Another question.. I'm considering a similar (but less demanding) idea for laying out radials for a temporary ground. For ease and speed these would have to be laid out on the ground, and the receiver will be battery powered, so this would be its only electrical reference to the ground. Is this ok, or is there some better way to make a portable ground? Meaning, something I can carry on foot for miles with little effort. |
#2
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On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 12:47:29 PM UTC-5, Lostgallifreyan wrote:
Assuming I start at some tree on open ground and run the wire to where I want to set up the receiver, I will usually leave some wire on the reel. The reel is about 28 cm wide, about 25 mm along axis, and entirely made of stainless steel. Is the metal attached to the antenna wire in this way going to affect its ability too much, even if I take care to prevent electrical contact with the ground? No, it should be fine. I would prevent contact with the ground though. |
#3
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Try a camping goods store -- find a camper's clothesline
reel. They are plastic and might just be what you need. Irv VE6BP |
#4
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#5
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Irv Finkleman VE6BP wrote in
: Try a camping goods store -- find a camper's clothesline reel. They are plastic and might just be what you need. Neat, and I like the totally enclosing design, but I think maybe too hard to modify in useful ways. The kite winder looks most useful, I can mount a socket on it, and hardware to anchor it easily in various ways. I even have space to mount a small DC motor with idler wheel drive to the rim, and mount a NiMH cell or two to operate it. ![]() That sounds like overkill, but tonight after discovering just how amazing 50m of stainless wire on high ground in open country can be, I found that my one- night bodge with the scrap parts is ok for unwinding, just, and terrible for winding. After ten metres I decided it was better to scrap the unwound wire and bundle it into a pocket for later disposal, than to try to make my cold fingers try to guide any more of it back onto my awful spool design in the dark while stumbling on rough ground. I decided then and there that 100 quid would not be too much to spend to never have to face that again. ![]() I can get luxury for less than fifty, too. The main thing I want to figure out will be stowing it at speed, even at a run. That will leave much more time to be spent much more usefully. For anyone reading this, and having any interest in the Tecsun PL-390 radio and anything I said about it in other posts recently, here's the context so far: With 100 turns on the end of the ferrite rod to modify it so the ring terminal on the RF input jack is used for an AM longwire, instead of barely detecting a Southampton NDB from Bristol, I now get several from France, the furthest being Poitiers. As the Southampton NDB was detected by the unaltered PL-390 with no possibility of external AM antenna, at 48 miles, having only a 15nm range, the PL-390 is better at LW DX than many people claim, and with the modification and a longwire, it's amazing. |
#6
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![]() "Lostgallifreyan" wrote in message . .. Hello. I spent a night building a portable longwire out of scrap acetal, stainless steel wire and a few other scrap parts. It works well but not as fast to use as I'd like, and the shape for stowing means it's not a circular coil and there is no guide to keep it winding easily without overrunning the edge of the former. snip Another question.. I'm considering a similar (but less demanding) idea for laying out radials for a temporary ground. For ease and speed these would have to be laid out on the ground, and the receiver will be battery powered, so this would be its only electrical reference to the ground. Is this ok, or is there some better way to make a portable ground? Meaning, something I can carry on foot for miles with little effort. I have experimented with and demonstrated (ham fairs, Field Day) shortened HF antennas, like the Hamstick and Hustler brands. These require radials and I had been attaching them by nuts and bolts to the metallic base upon which I place the mag-mount antenna. I carried several bases, each with radials for a different band. This is not your exact situation, I realize, but the latest version of my radials might be useful: I have several short "pigtail" leads bolted to one base. Each one is terminated in a banana jack and I have pre-cut pairs of tuned radials with banana plugs on them. Several sets of my tuned radials are ready to be unwound from foot-square cardboard frames, stretched out and plugged into the jacks. The cardboard frames are simply the lids from cardboard boxes. I notched out a few square inches at each end to form a flat spool. Tangling is minimal. Presently I can deploy 8 radials. (Per some discussions I have read, improvements gained by using more than 8 radials might not be audible.) My radials are never exactly straight and it doesn't seem to matter. I have not staked them, so to reduce the potential tripping hazard to the visitors. I might use a small stone at the far end. Your question, "Is this ok?" will be answered Yes by me. With only two radial wires laid upon the ground, my antenna was entirely satisfactory. From Southern California, we reliably worked the middle of the US with 100W on 20m SSB during Field Day last year. However, having only two radial wires gave a "best VSWR" no lower than 2:1 with the analyzer. The tuner could fix that but adding another pair of radials brought the best VSWR down to about 1.5:1. I hope this also works for your long-wire. I am not at home, so I can't do play-time for another week :-) "Sal" KD6VKW |
#7
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Would a garden hose(pipe) reel work (30 cm-ish diameter)? used one for
microphone cords and it winds up nicely. I imagine alligator-clipping onto the wire at the reel might do for a feed. |
#8
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Eric Weaver wrote in
: Would a garden hose(pipe) reel work (30 cm-ish diameter)? used one for microphone cords and it winds up nicely. I imagine alligator-clipping onto the wire at the reel might do for a feed. How big are your pockets, exactly? ![]() any time soon, but it is somethign immediately manageable on foot for a few miles. Last time I saw a hose reel it was a lot bigger than this kite reel. I only need to spool a few hundred metres at most, of some thin stainless wire, and possible another similar reel to take a few radial wires so I can quickly lay them out. last time I tested, I had no need, I found a golf course, it has these low metal platforms about the size of a small car, where people tee off from. As I put 100 or so turns on one end of the ferrite rod, the current that ground has to handle is very small anyway. Those little platforms seem to make nice ground planes. ![]() |
#9
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"Sal M. O'Nella" wrote in
: This is not your exact situation, I realize, but the latest version of my radials might be useful: I have several short "pigtail" leads bolted to one base. Each one is terminated in a banana jack and I have pre-cut pairs of tuned radials with banana plugs on them. Several sets of my tuned radials are ready to be unwound from foot-square cardboard frames, stretched out and plugged into the jacks. The cardboard frames are simply the lids from cardboard boxes. I notched out a few square inches at each end to form a flat spool. Tangling is minimal. Presently I can deploy 8 radials. (Per some discussions I have read, improvements gained by using more than 8 radials might not be audible.) This is a nice idea. My current tests are LW AM so I'm only after enough ground to get a reasonable current through the coil I put on the ferrite rod, and so far, so good. (And LW radials could be very very long if I ever had to transmit anything and do it right). I do want to try them for HF too though, when I get into that, so thanks, this portable method looks like being useful. I'd imagioned I might need up to 14 radials or so, but certainly all the guidance I found says 20 or more is diminishing returns. |
#10
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"Sal M. O'Nella" wrote in
: Your question, "Is this ok?" will be answered Yes by me. Ok. ![]() and leave spare antenna wire on it and ground the bulk of the reel? I'm guessing it's not critical but I wouldn't want to mess up the tuning frequency. A bit of lost signal I can manage. |
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