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#1
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Seabat wrote:
"I have a bookshelf stereo system that has a rinky-dink little loop antenna for AM and a single little wire for FM." The designer likely assumed the loop and the wire would be immersed in AM and FM fields adequate for satisfactory reception. The AM loop may not have enough signal because you`ve put it under a metal roof. The FM wire may not have enough signal because its elevation is too low at your site. You`re down in the Rio Grande valley. The FM wire is likely about 2.5 feet long, or about 1/4-wavelength. Its impedance would be about 30 ohms near resonance. The loop is likely part of the AM tuned input circuit with an impedance of about 1000 ohms. For FM, you need to get the antenna up high. A ground-plane antenna is simple and works well. Vertical and radial parts can all be about 2.5 ft. long. It can be connected to your radio with 50-ohm coax. The existing wire is your FM input. Ground to the radio is probably one of the "rinky-dinky loop" wires. If not, capacitive coupling via aluminum foil or the like will likely do. For AM, a tuned loop out from under the metal roof should capture ample signal. It can be enclosed in a non-metalic protection and does not need to be placed up high to work well. Wind a separate 2-turn coil around the loop to take out its signal. Connect this to yet another loop (which does not need to be tuned) via twisted pair. Place the untuned loop in the position next to the "rinky-dinky loop" which gives the best reception. When changing AM stations, you will need to retune the external loop for best reception. Best regards, Richard Harrison, KB5WZI |
#2
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#3
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Seabat wrote:
"So, if I took the "rinky-dink" plastic loop antenna outside and placed it abive the roof, it would work?" Most likely. Seabat said his car radio worked on the site. An a-c radio should normally be sensitive enough to operate on the same site. An AM radio antenna does not need to be st high altitude as medium waves follow the earth`s curvature as they propagate in most cases. The existing metal roof in combination with the earth itself form a sandwich with the loop antenna in the middle. This has proved unsatisfactory. Seabat has "The Tin Riof Blues". It`s only necessary to get the AM antenna in effect out from under the metal roof. I suspect that just extending loop wires would be fraught with problems. A variable capacitance in the radio likely tunes the loop. This loop in parallel with the capacitance makes a high impedance parallel-resonant circuit. Its impedance rises to about Q times the inductive reactance. This circuit is susceptible to upset due to stray capacitance from any long high-Z feeders. That`s why I proposed two additional loops to capture the signal and to transfer it to the radio. A tuned loop in the clear would capture in the signal, and the untuned loop would transfer the signal to the radio`s "rinky-dinky" plastic antenna loop on the radio shelf. These two loops would be interconnected with a twisted-pair of wires. Seabat also wrote: "I suppose an pld car antenna would work for the FM if placed up high, also?" Yes. It`s exactly what I`ve long used as a 2-meter antenna. It is collapsed telescopically to about 19 inches. I added (4) equally spaced, drooping by 45-degrees, radials under the vertical radiator. They are also 19 inches long. With full forward power into the antenna, the reflected power is very low. The rig talks and listens very well. For the FM broadcast band the elements would need to be lengthened to almost 30 inches. Construction details are given in books such as the "ARRL Antenna Book" Best regards, Richard Harrison, KB5WZI |
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