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Old March 2nd 05, 06:04 PM
clvrmnky
 
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Default Long/random-wire balun and grounding Q (longish)

I've got a little shortwave receiver that has a decent amount of gain in
it's antenna input. I've been experimenting with different lengths and
placements of the wire, and seen some interesting homebrew antennas I
might try once the snow melts.

I know that receivers are less demanding of impedance matching in
general, but my readings suggest that I should have a balun (unun) of
some sort to match the impedance better, since I'm pretty much stuck
with end-fed longwires. This should get more signal to my front-end,
and a proper shielded connection to my receiver should help minimize
stray RF noise.

I'm a renter, so I'm going to experiment with running a wire along the
eaves on the balcony, which is open to two sides of the house (wooden
two-story.) That is, I do not have the luxury of using the yard, trees
or anything.

So, my idea is to have a long wire (or folded longwire made from a
length of twin-lead) go to a balun (or unun, since this is really
unbalanced-to-unbalanced) and then run a downwire from there to my
receiver through a window.

I'm guessing the real advantage would be realized if I had a good RF
ground at the receiver and/or balun. This will be sort of tricky. I
don't even think I have copper cold-water pipes anywhere, and running
copper braid over the balcony, down the side of the building and into
6-foot rod just ain't going to happen. I've heard of people using
houseplants for poor grounds when no other was available, and I have
many kilos of wet earth on the balcony.

I've seen a neat artificial ground/antenna tuner from MFJ (I think)
which seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. It even has multiple
inputs for high-Z single wires. Would this be useful for SW?

Finally, I'm probably just going to wind my own balun out of a ferrite
core. I just can't seem to find the details on how to wind the copper.
Do I wind the primary first around the whole core, and then the
secondary on top of it? Sorry if this is stupid question, but I've got
most of the math figured out (i.e., no. of turns and such) but since
I've never seen a balun... my assumption (right or wrong) is that it is
just a special transformer.

Thanks for your comments.

-- cm
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Old March 2nd 05, 11:25 PM
Richard Clark
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 13:04:50 -0500, clvrmnky
wrote:

I know that receivers are less demanding of impedance matching in
general, but my readings suggest that I should have a balun (unun) of
some sort to match the impedance better, since I'm pretty much stuck
with end-fed longwires.


Hi OM,

This match, as you speak of, is probably remote from any probability
you are likely to encounter with the antenna options you describe in
your posting. However, there are other merits:

a proper shielded connection to my receiver should help minimize
stray RF noise.


Presuming you mean to terminate the far end shield connection to
ground.

I'm guessing the real advantage would be realized if I had a good RF
ground at the receiver and/or balun. This will be sort of tricky. I
don't even think I have copper cold-water pipes anywhere, and running
copper braid over the balcony, down the side of the building and into
6-foot rod just ain't going to happen.


OK, so we strike out those as options not available to you.

I've heard of people using
houseplants for poor grounds when no other was available, and I have
many kilos of wet earth on the balcony.


Don't even think of it. Ground does not mean wet mud.

I've seen a neat artificial ground/antenna tuner from MFJ (I think)
which seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. It even has multiple
inputs for high-Z single wires. Would this be useful for SW?


Certainly, but you would achieve just as much with a simple tuner
(cheap one without the transmitter meters). In fact, this tuner is
generally very necessary to keep local AM stations from desensitizing
your receiver. This is a common plight suffered by many who would
otherwise think they were doing pretty well, but just need more
antenna to get those signals others are reporting.

Finally, I'm probably just going to wind my own balun out of a ferrite
core. I just can't seem to find the details on how to wind the copper.
Do I wind the primary first around the whole core, and then the
secondary on top of it?


What you are describing is a conventional power transformer - NOT the
same thing as a Transmission Line Transformer. What you should really
concentrate on is what is called a Transmission Line Choke (perfectly
accomplished using a 1:1 Current BalUn/UnUn).

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC
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Old March 10th 05, 05:24 PM
clvrmnky
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 02/03/2005 6:25 PM, Richard Clark wrote:
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 13:04:50 -0500, clvrmnky
wrote:

[...]
I've seen a neat artificial ground/antenna tuner from MFJ (I think)
which seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. It even has multiple
inputs for high-Z single wires. Would this be useful for SW?


Certainly, but you would achieve just as much with a simple tuner
(cheap one without the transmitter meters). In fact, this tuner is
generally very necessary to keep local AM stations from desensitizing
your receiver. This is a common plight suffered by many who would
otherwise think they were doing pretty well, but just need more
antenna to get those signals others are reporting.

I've been looking more seriously at the balun/tuner/ground offerings out
there. Seems to be a fair amount of contention out there about whether
antenna tuners work for SW.

If I can lessen the abuse my otherwise sensitive front-end is taking
from the wire, then maybe it's worth a try. That is, I'm
hoping/guessing that such a device will help my radio not hear a strong
signal 10-15kHz on either side of the mark, swamping out stuff I might
otherwise hear near these stations.

In this regard, homebrew is good because it allows me to experiment for
cheap. Even the cheapest MFJ equipment is a bit steep shipped to my
door in Canada.


Finally, I'm probably just going to wind my own balun out of a ferrite
core. I just can't seem to find the details on how to wind the copper.
Do I wind the primary first around the whole core, and then the
secondary on top of it?


What you are describing is a conventional power transformer - NOT the
same thing as a Transmission Line Transformer. What you should really
concentrate on is what is called a Transmission Line Choke (perfectly
accomplished using a 1:1 Current BalUn/UnUn).

Hmmm. I understand that a balun is really a type of matching
transformer, and that the specific nomenclature used is really just to
distinguish the various use, application and materials of the transformer.

All the designs for homebrew longwire X:1 baluns I've seen are step-down
transformers using specific types of ferrite material. Of course,
typical use often has one side of the primary and secondary going to a
good RF ground (for balanced application, anyway), which I do not have.

My thinking is that since I'm going to be experimenting with different
wire antennas this summer, why not try a few different matching
techniques as well?

The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may preclude
any of this. I've got lots of wire, however, so I'm willing to give a
weekends up to try different things.

-- cm
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Old March 10th 05, 06:04 PM
Cecil Moore
 
Posts: n/a
Default

clvrmnky wrote:
The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may preclude
any of this.


If you use a balanced antenna system, you don't need
an RF ground for the receive function.
--
73, Cecil, W5DXP


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Old March 10th 05, 09:15 PM
clvrmnky
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 10/03/2005 1:04 PM, Cecil Moore wrote:
clvrmnky wrote:

The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may
preclude any of this.



If you use a balanced antenna system, you don't need
an RF ground for the receive function.


Hmmm. I can probably make a decent-sized folded dipole out on the
patio. It will have to turn a corner, but I can probably get a
fair-sized loop out there.


  #6   Report Post  
Old March 14th 05, 06:02 PM
clvrmnky
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 10/03/2005 4:15 PM, clvrmnky wrote:
On 10/03/2005 1:04 PM, Cecil Moore wrote:

clvrmnky wrote:

The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may
preclude any of this.




If you use a balanced antenna system, you don't need
an RF ground for the receive function.



Hmmm. I can probably make a decent-sized folded dipole out on the
patio. It will have to turn a corner, but I can probably get a
fair-sized loop out there.


Ok, further to this. Even if I'm not to care about impedance matching
or choking, my receiver has an unbalanced antenna input. One side of
the antenna connection simply goes to "chassis" ground.

This implies that I should use a traditional BalUn to make the balance
connection work for me. Otherwise, one side of a dipole or looped
longwire is just going to go straight to ground (such as it is.)

I built myself a reasonably stealthy random-wire running along the top
of my wooden balcony railing (which turns a 90-deg corner around the
building) for a total length of around 25-30 ft. I was considering
simply looping the wire to make a bent, untuned, "folded dipole" (the
wires would be 5-6 inches apart) just to get more wire into the wind.

To realize this, I am supposing I'll have to use a true BalUn to get the
signal into my unbalanced front-end somehow. Since most designs for a
true BalUn assumes I have a decent ground, I'm a bit stumped by your
comment. Perhaps the ground of the BalUn can just go to the coax sleeve?

Thanks for all your suggestions.
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Old March 10th 05, 06:44 PM
Richard Clark
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 12:24:15 -0500, clvrmnky
wrote:
I've been looking more seriously at the balun/tuner/ground offerings out
there. Seems to be a fair amount of contention out there about whether
antenna tuners work for SW.


Hi OM,

I am sure that is the gospel in rec.radio.shortwave. There is little
there that qualifies as dependable information - except what station
was being heard (and then, this information is obviously iffy).

If I can lessen the abuse my otherwise sensitive front-end is taking
from the wire, then maybe it's worth a try. That is, I'm
hoping/guessing that such a device will help my radio not hear a strong
signal 10-15kHz on either side of the mark, swamping out stuff I might
otherwise hear near these stations.


No, no tuner is going to have that much Q unless you get a very small
loop to go with it. Then, you are better off tuning the loop instead.
All-in-all you need to twist a knob somewhere. There are several
merits of using tuners with longwires. The chief among them is that a
tuner will depress the strenght of local AM stations that will desense
your receiver (even if you are not even tuned anywhere near that AM
station's frequency - such is its power and the weakness of receiver
front ends).

In this regard, homebrew is good because it allows me to experiment for
cheap.


By all means, do it.

Hmmm. I understand that a balun is really a type of matching
transformer, and that the specific nomenclature used is really just to
distinguish the various use, application and materials of the transformer.


This is all true, but bears very little on your needs.

All the designs for homebrew longwire X:1 baluns I've seen are step-down
transformers using specific types of ferrite material.


Those are conventional transformers, not chokes, not BalUns (or
UnUns).

Of course,
typical use often has one side of the primary and secondary going to a
good RF ground (for balanced application, anyway), which I do not have.


May as well divorce yourself from those explanations. A tuner will do
the job of transforming AND filter out the crap. A tuner is a
variable transformer. If you have a single wire coming in to the
tuner, add a hank of wire to the tuner's ground connection [hank = 20'
±6dB].

My thinking is that since I'm going to be experimenting with different
wire antennas this summer, why not try a few different matching
techniques as well?


Matching at the antenna, or matching at the receiver? Unless you have
long arms, or many antennas for each band, it is simpler to match at
the receiver.

The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may preclude
any of this. I've got lots of wire, however, so I'm willing to give a
weekends up to try different things.


Returning to the need for a BalUn, properly a choke, for your
application. It is useful for reducing house noise from getting mixed
with your signal. Conventional transformers won't do that (unless you
add a choke at their output on the signal downstream).

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC
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Old March 10th 05, 07:00 PM
Roy Lewallen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

clvrmnky wrote:
. . .


Hmmm. I understand that a balun is really a type of matching
transformer, and that the specific nomenclature used is really just to
distinguish the various use, application and materials of the transformer.


No, that's not correct. Balun is a contraction of "balanced-unbalanced".
A balun is sometimes combined with a transformer or made to transform
impedance, and sometimes it isn't. Its function is to balance the
currents on the two feedline conductors (either coax or parallel wire
line) to prevent radiation from the line when transmitting and pickup
from the line when receiving. The impedance transformation is a separate
function for a different purpose.

All the designs for homebrew longwire X:1 baluns I've seen are step-down
transformers using specific types of ferrite material. Of course,
typical use often has one side of the primary and secondary going to a
good RF ground (for balanced application, anyway), which I do not have.


A typical 1:1 "current" or "choke" balun, which does what I described
above, does not require any external "ground" or other connection. If
fact, such a connection provides a path for imbalance current and can
actually degrade balance. There are a number of ways of providing this
function, with and without ferrite cores.

My thinking is that since I'm going to be experimenting with different
wire antennas this summer, why not try a few different matching
techniques as well?


There's no reason not to experiment. Improving the match won't help your
signal-to-noise ratio. After your experiments show that this is so, you
can go back and learn why not.


The lack of good RF ground is going to be a challenge, and may preclude
any of this. I've got lots of wire, however, so I'm willing to give a
weekends up to try different things.


There's no need for an RF ground if you use a well-balanced antenna.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL
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Old March 3rd 05, 01:57 AM
Roy Lewallen
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Try this simple test.

Tune your receiver to a part of the dial where there's no station.
Disconnect the antenna from your receiver. If the noise level drops,
impedance matching won't help your signal/noise ratio, it'll just make
everything louder. You can accomplish the same thing by turning up the
volume control.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

clvrmnky wrote:
I've got a little shortwave receiver that has a decent amount of gain in
it's antenna input. I've been experimenting with different lengths and
placements of the wire, and seen some interesting homebrew antennas I
might try once the snow melts.

I know that receivers are less demanding of impedance matching in
general, but my readings suggest that I should have a balun (unun) of
some sort to match the impedance better, since I'm pretty much stuck
with end-fed longwires. This should get more signal to my front-end,
and a proper shielded connection to my receiver should help minimize
stray RF noise.

I'm a renter, so I'm going to experiment with running a wire along the
eaves on the balcony, which is open to two sides of the house (wooden
two-story.) That is, I do not have the luxury of using the yard, trees
or anything.

So, my idea is to have a long wire (or folded longwire made from a
length of twin-lead) go to a balun (or unun, since this is really
unbalanced-to-unbalanced) and then run a downwire from there to my
receiver through a window.

I'm guessing the real advantage would be realized if I had a good RF
ground at the receiver and/or balun. This will be sort of tricky. I
don't even think I have copper cold-water pipes anywhere, and running
copper braid over the balcony, down the side of the building and into
6-foot rod just ain't going to happen. I've heard of people using
houseplants for poor grounds when no other was available, and I have
many kilos of wet earth on the balcony.

I've seen a neat artificial ground/antenna tuner from MFJ (I think)
which seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. It even has multiple
inputs for high-Z single wires. Would this be useful for SW?

Finally, I'm probably just going to wind my own balun out of a ferrite
core. I just can't seem to find the details on how to wind the copper.
Do I wind the primary first around the whole core, and then the
secondary on top of it? Sorry if this is stupid question, but I've got
most of the math figured out (i.e., no. of turns and such) but since
I've never seen a balun... my assumption (right or wrong) is that it is
just a special transformer.

Thanks for your comments.

-- cm

  #10   Report Post  
Old March 5th 05, 05:30 AM
CW
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Classic. I new someone would come up with the "stick a coat hanger in your
antenna socket and be happy" line.

"Roy Lewallen" wrote in message
...
Try this simple test.

Tune your receiver to a part of the dial where there's no station.
Disconnect the antenna from your receiver. If the noise level drops,
impedance matching won't help your signal/noise ratio, it'll just make
everything louder. You can accomplish the same thing by turning up the
volume control.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

clvrmnky wrote:
I've got a little shortwave receiver that has a decent amount of gain in
it's antenna input. I've been experimenting with different lengths and
placements of the wire, and seen some interesting homebrew antennas I
might try once the snow melts.

I know that receivers are less demanding of impedance matching in
general, but my readings suggest that I should have a balun (unun) of
some sort to match the impedance better, since I'm pretty much stuck
with end-fed longwires. This should get more signal to my front-end,
and a proper shielded connection to my receiver should help minimize
stray RF noise.

I'm a renter, so I'm going to experiment with running a wire along the
eaves on the balcony, which is open to two sides of the house (wooden
two-story.) That is, I do not have the luxury of using the yard, trees
or anything.

So, my idea is to have a long wire (or folded longwire made from a
length of twin-lead) go to a balun (or unun, since this is really
unbalanced-to-unbalanced) and then run a downwire from there to my
receiver through a window.

I'm guessing the real advantage would be realized if I had a good RF
ground at the receiver and/or balun. This will be sort of tricky. I
don't even think I have copper cold-water pipes anywhere, and running
copper braid over the balcony, down the side of the building and into
6-foot rod just ain't going to happen. I've heard of people using
houseplants for poor grounds when no other was available, and I have
many kilos of wet earth on the balcony.

I've seen a neat artificial ground/antenna tuner from MFJ (I think)
which seems to offer a lot of bang for the buck. It even has multiple
inputs for high-Z single wires. Would this be useful for SW?

Finally, I'm probably just going to wind my own balun out of a ferrite
core. I just can't seem to find the details on how to wind the copper.
Do I wind the primary first around the whole core, and then the
secondary on top of it? Sorry if this is stupid question, but I've got
most of the math figured out (i.e., no. of turns and such) but since
I've never seen a balun... my assumption (right or wrong) is that it is
just a special transformer.

Thanks for your comments.

-- cm





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