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#1
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An antenna doesn't have a single "radiation angle". It radiates at all
angles. The relevant question is how much does it radiate at the particular angle of interest, not at which angle does it radiate the most. An antenna which radiates its maximum at a high angle might well radiate more at a low angle than an antenna with a lower angle of maximum radiation. Roy Lewallen, W7EL wrote: On 13 Sep 2005 16:15:08 GMT, "Bill Turner" wrote: Without more information, this comparison is flawed. A mobile whip has a lower angle of radiation than a horizontal dipole. . . Correct on radiation angle . . . |
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#2
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On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 20:43:23 -0700, Roy Lewallen
wrote: An antenna doesn't have a single "radiation angle". It radiates at all angles. The relevant question is how much does it radiate at the particular angle of interest, not at which angle does it radiate the most. An antenna which radiates its maximum at a high angle might well radiate more at a low angle than an antenna with a lower angle of maximum radiation. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Hello Roy, I do understand that. I also understand when you say radiation angle your talking about the primary or dominent lobe(s). There may be many other lobes at useful or less than useful angles present as well. However, how does that relate to using a shortend antenna with maybe 10% radiation efficientcy to a dipole at a reasonably attainable height? Allison KB1GMX wrote: On 13 Sep 2005 16:15:08 GMT, "Bill Turner" wrote: Without more information, this comparison is flawed. A mobile whip has a lower angle of radiation than a horizontal dipole. . . Correct on radiation angle . . . |
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#3
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However, how does that relate to using a shortend antenna with maybe
10% radiation efficientcy to a dipole at a reasonably attainable height? Well....Exactly as he described. An antenna which radiates its maximum at a high angle might well radiate more at a low angle than an antenna with a lower angle of maximum radiation. The thing is "might".... My mobile antenna on 40m is *much* less efficient than my dipole at 40 ft. But...It still is the best to longer hauls over about 800 miles, and to dx. In it's case, it does radiate more at the lower angles I'm using at that time, vs the dipole. With some lesser mobiles, "mine is fairly stout", this might not be the case. The best antenna should always be decided to fit the usual paths to be used. In the case of my mobile vs the dipole, it's possible that if the dipole were raised another 1/4 wave higher, it could match the mobile at those lower angles. At home, I often ran a dipole at 40 ft vs a full size ground plane at the same height. Both were pretty efficient. Efficiency comparisons were fairly useless as to actual performance. What really decides which is best at a given time, is the path, and angles to be used. Now, if you compare two same length low dipoles, both to NVIS, both shooting straight up, and one is less lossy than the other as far as feeding method, etc, then yes, efficiency will decide which one is best. MK |
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#4
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#5
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Roy Lewallen wrote:
An antenna doesn't have a single "radiation angle". It radiates at all angles. The relevant question is how much does it radiate at the particular angle of interest, not at which angle does it radiate the most. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That's true, except few if any hams have a specific "angle of interest", since different angles are used at different times. For most of us, the angle of maximum radiation gives a general indication of how the antenna will perform. A better indication would be a graphical representation. It's always a problem when one tries to reduce a complex situation like this down to a single number. 73, Bill W6WRT |
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#6
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A better indication would be a
graphical representation. The EZNEC demo does that well. There is a little green ball that you can grab with your mouse, and place it at any angle you wanna check. Makes it quite easy to see, or compare various angles. MK |
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#7
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#8
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Bill Turner wrote:
Roy Lewallen wrote: An antenna doesn't have a single "radiation angle". It radiates at all angles. The relevant question is how much does it radiate at the particular angle of interest, not at which angle does it radiate the most. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That's true, except few if any hams have a specific "angle of interest", since different angles are used at different times. For most of us, the angle of maximum radiation gives a general indication of how the antenna will perform. A better indication would be a graphical representation. It's always a problem when one tries to reduce a complex situation like this down to a single number. 73, Bill W6WRT I agree, which is why EZNEC produces a graphical output. I encourage people to look at it rather than reducing the pattern to a single number. And I have to emphasize once again that what really counts is the field strength, not the pattern shape. An antenna can have a wonderful looking pattern with nearly all its radiation at low angles, and still be a poor antenna for DX. Or with nearly all its radiation at high angles and be a poor antenna for short range communications. One familiar example is a Beverage antenna, which has a lovely pattern shape but makes a poor transmitting antenna. A quarter wave vertical will nearly always do much better for transmitting, even at the angles favored by the Beverage. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
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#9
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Roy,
I decided to go with a 20-meter 4 square. I wonder if any people have experience with 4-squares that they can share with me. I have considered some construction details give available materials, and I have some questions. 1) Can I shorten each element by using an inverted L rather than straight vertical, with a pipe as vertical part and a wire as horizontal part? I have heard that matching is far less of a problem this way also. 2) Where can I find or build a reasonably inexpensive phase box? 3) For the vertical part, I am wanting to a dig a hole 2 foot across by 3 foot down, and fill with concrete. Into this I would insert a 5 foot length of 1 1/2 inch steel support pipe about midway, so that 2 1/2 feet are above ground. Into this I would mount a 10 foot length of 3/4 inch steel pipe with a 2 1/2 foot insulated overlap of PVC pipe. The 3/4 inch steel pipe would be the bottom of the actual driven element. Into this I would mount a 10 foot length of 1/2 inch aluminum pipe with a 2 foot metallic contact overlap, and then I would finish with rod for vertical or wire for inverted L. Question: how would the 2 1/2 foot overlap of a non-grounded metal support pipe interfere with radiation of the vertical element? Thanks in advance, The Eternal Squire |
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#10
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wrote:
Roy, I decided to go with a 20-meter 4 square. I wonder if any people have experience with 4-squares that they can share with me. I have considered some construction details give available materials, and I have some questions. I've built and used a few, for 40 meters. 1) Can I shorten each element by using an inverted L rather than straight vertical, with a pipe as vertical part and a wire as horizontal part? I have heard that matching is far less of a problem this way also. You can make a 4 square from any kind of element. EZNEC can tell you what effect the element shape will have. I strongly recommend against designing the antenna to get the best or easiest match. Design the antenna for the best performance, then design whatever matching arrangement you need in order to match it. An exception to this general rule is that antennas with an exceptionally low resistance or high reactance might not be practical because of the problem of matching system loss, so such an antenna might need redesign in order to be practical. 2) Where can I find or build a reasonably inexpensive phase box? Chapter 8 of the ARRL Antenna Book describes how to design one. See also "The Simplest Phased Array Feed System - That Works" and accompanying program Simpfeed, available from http://eznec.com/Amateur/Articles/. 3) For the vertical part, I am wanting to a dig a hole 2 foot across by 3 foot down, and fill with concrete. Into this I would insert a 5 foot length of 1 1/2 inch steel support pipe about midway, so that 2 1/2 feet are above ground. Into this I would mount a 10 foot length of 3/4 inch steel pipe with a 2 1/2 foot insulated overlap of PVC pipe. The 3/4 inch steel pipe would be the bottom of the actual driven element. Into this I would mount a 10 foot length of 1/2 inch aluminum pipe with a 2 foot metallic contact overlap, and then I would finish with rod for vertical or wire for inverted L. Wow, for a 20 meter 4-square? For each element on 40, I drove a 1-1/4" 8 foot galvanized chain link fence line pole 4 feet into the ground. (Our soil is clay.) I cut a piece of heavy wall PVC pipe lengthwise into quarters for insulators, and clamped the element to the line pole with muffler clamps with a couple of pieces of the split PVC pipe in between. The elements are three pieces of telescoping 6061-T6 tubing, beginning with, as I recall, 1-1/8" at the bottom. They've been up for around 20 years now and survived a couple of pretty strong wind storms. Question: how would the 2 1/2 foot overlap of a non-grounded metal support pipe interfere with radiation of the vertical element? Any shunt impedance will reduce the null depth if the array is adjusted for the correct base current ratio. This is because a different fraction of the current will be diverted from each element because of their differing base impedances. However, I've found that the 4 foot overlap I have doesn't reduce it noticeably. But my overlapping pipes are parallel and, if I understand your description, yours will be coaxial. That'll result in a lot more shunt capacitance, and a correspondingly greater effect on the null. The main lobe won't be affected much. Roy Lewallen, W7EL |
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