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Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies
I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Chris,
Solder. 'Doc |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 01:05:36 -0600, Chris W wrote:
I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. As Doc said, solder. Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. You'll need that kind of heat to solder coax connector outer shells to the braid. Get the ARRL Handbook, and look at their pages on soldering coax connectors. Bob k5qwg |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Clamp types have cause me problems over the years, stay away from them.
Crimp type work ok in the shack but not out side for a long time. Solder it by far the best way to go. Another type that works good outside is compression clamps. The ones meant to be used with hard line. They cost more, but unless you like climbing up a 60 foot tower in a contest, they are worth the cost! Chuck WA3IAC "Chris W" wrote in message news:SkNqf.41400$ih5.2551@dukeread11... I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Solder - the only way to go. Also, check out The WireMan ( http://thewireman.com/index.shtml ) for coax, connectors and their cat. (Wirebook III) has a real good section on soldering. K7SAM |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
hi Chris,
Welmcome to ham radio, I am sure you will enjoy it as much as the rest of us have ! Since you are starting out, to solder you just need the iron, 100-120 watts with chisel tip is just fine, don't attempt with the lower wattage units, you end up damaging the coax dielectric and have more problems. Crimps have their place, but, you will need to buy or borrow the crimp frame tool along with the correct dies for the connectors you want to crimp. This is a lot more expensive then the solder iron. Be sure to buy and use name brand connectors, quality is worth the price, you buy it once. You can get a bag of the cheap ones to practice with and then use the good Amphenol or other brands. http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf The above pdf has installation instructions. 73 Luke |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Luke wrote:
hi Chris, Welmcome to ham radio, I am sure you will enjoy it as much as the rest of us have ! Since you are starting out, to solder you just need the iron, 100-120 watts with chisel tip is just fine, don't attempt with the lower wattage units, you end up damaging the coax dielectric and have more problems. Crimps have their place, but, you will need to buy or borrow the crimp frame tool along with the correct dies for the connectors you want to crimp. This is a lot more expensive then the solder iron. Be sure to buy and use name brand connectors, quality is worth the price, you buy it once. You can get a bag of the cheap ones to practice with and then use the good Amphenol or other brands. http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf The above pdf has installation instructions. 73 Luke If you follow the amphenol instructions, they omit one thing. Take a little extra fine grit paper and clean the areas where you will be applying the solder. It can never be too clean, and there is often a little corrosive film which you cannot always see with the eye that develops over time. Irv VE6BP -- -------------------------------------- Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001 Beating it with diet and exercise! 297/215/210 (to be revised lower) 58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!) -------------------------------------- Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/index.html Visit my Baby Sofia website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/index.htm Visit my OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/index.htm -------------------- Irv Finkleman, Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP Calgary, Alberta, Canada |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
"Bob Miller" wrote in message ... On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 01:05:36 -0600, Chris W wrote: I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. As Doc said, solder. Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. You'll need that kind of heat to solder coax connector outer shells to the braid. Get the ARRL Handbook, and look at their pages on soldering coax connectors. Bob k5qwg A ~200W soldering gun from Radio Shack or Home Depot will also work fine. Tam/WB2TT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Crimp connectors work just fine when done properly, but I would not use them on anything above 2M. You will find the compression type fittings for larger coax and heliax superior to anything else for microwave work. But most will probably suggest generally a good soldered connector the best for most apps. If you have the money, the best iron for soldering coax connectors would be one such as made by American Beauty..... but very pricey. A hefty Weller gun will suffice if funds are limited. Ed K7AAT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
In article ,
Bob Miller wrote: Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. You'll need that kind of heat to solder coax connector outer shells to the braid. Get the ARRL Handbook, and look at their pages on soldering coax connectors. Another trick: it's usually possible to solder the outer shells into place with a lower-wattage gun, if you first pre-heat the whole assembly with a hot air gun (hair dryer might work). This can be gentler on the coax (and its meltable internal insulation) than just hitting the shell with a soldering iron and waiting for the shell to soak up enough heat to allow the solder to melt. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Bob Miller wrote:
As Doc said, solder. Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. Thanks for the suggestion on the iron, I found it for $40 which isn't too bad. You'll need that kind of heat to solder coax connector outer shells to the braid. Get the ARRL Handbook, and look at their pages on soldering coax connectors. I guess the book you are talking about isn't the antenna book, I can't find much on soldering in there. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Luke wrote:
hi Chris, Welmcome to ham radio, I am sure you will enjoy it as much as the rest of us have ! Since you are starting out, to solder you just need the iron, 100-120 watts with chisel tip is just fine, don't attempt with the lower wattage units, you end up damaging the coax dielectric and have more problems. Crimps have their place, but, you will need to buy or borrow the crimp frame tool along with the correct dies for the connectors you want to crimp. This is a lot more expensive then the solder iron. Be sure to buy and use name brand connectors, quality is worth the price, you buy it once. You can get a bag of the cheap ones to practice with and then use the good Amphenol or other brands. http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf Actually I plan on going out of my way to avoid UHF connectors. I plan on doing a fair amount at 400+ mhz and the UHF connectors don't do well up there. So about the only place I will be using UHF is at the radio if I can't find a radio with N connectors. My watt meter has N connectors and so do my antennas. I'm not sure why anyone would want to use UHF on anything outside. The only way to protect a UHF from the weather is with some coax wrap but the N has a seal built in, of course some kind of wrap as additional protection isn't a bad idea either if it is done right. In some cases I may even replace the UHF connector in the radio with an N but only if it is an old radio no longer under warranty. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Ed wrote:
Crimp connectors work just fine when done properly, but I would not use them on anything above 2M. Then why is it that Times Microwave only shows how to put on crimp and clamp connectors on their cables on their web site. On their larger cables (LMR 900 and up) they only have clamp connectors. You will find the compression type fittings for larger coax and heliax superior to anything else for microwave work. Like I already mentioned, I think that is all you can put on the LMR 900 and up size coax. But most will probably suggest generally a good soldered connector the best for most apps. If you have the money, the best iron for soldering coax connectors would be one such as made by American Beauty..... but very pricey. I found an 150 watt one for $115, that doesn't seem too bad to me if it is that much better than others. http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bi...duct/0400-0027 One thing I forgot to mention in my first post, where you have to use a UHF, it seems that for LMR 400, the only option is solder, I could be looking in the wrong places, but I haven't seen any crimp or clamp on UHF connectors for LMR 400 only solder. About the only time I plan on using anything smaller than LMR 400 is for a jumper to hook my hand held to the big antenna, for that I am going to get some LMR 240 ultra flex. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Chuck S. wrote:
Clamp types have cause me problems over the years, stay away from them. Crimp type work ok in the shack but not out side for a long time. If you are going to crimp and use it outside you certainly need to use some good adhesive lined shrink tube to seal it up. I'm curious why no one seems to like crimp. Other than the cost of the tools to do it right it seems like a much easier way to go. Crimping works great for other types of connections. Also I did a lot of browsing on Times Microwave's web site and about all they talk about are crimp and clamp on connectors, for the big cables it is clamp only, I think part of the reason for that is you would probably need a hydraulic crimping tool for those big cables :) Solder it by far the best way to go. Another type that works good outside is compression clamps. The ones meant to be used with hard line. They cost more, but unless you like climbing up a 60 foot tower in a contest, they are worth the cost! I like those, the only connectors I have put on so far is a solder/clamp N and a solder UHF, the N was a solder on pin, which was pretty easy and then the clamp on outer shell. The only hard part was getting the cable striped cleanly but a good coax stripper should fix that. That is the next thing I plan on buying, I just need to find a good one. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
I forgot to bring up resistive soldering, does any one use one of
those? I guess if I get a big iron that will work good. I used a 140 watt gun for the UHF connector I did first, I hear the big irons work better because of the larger thermal mass, I may try the heat gun trick too. I have a small heat gun that will get up to 200 and something F or so. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
One thing I should have said was that I use ONLY "N" connectors from 144 to
1296. I read, maybe in this group, that UHF connectors are ok to 500MHz. Like I said, I don't use them above 144MHz. and I know some hams that don't use UHF connectors on 6 meter. Above 2304 I use SMA's and WG on 24GHz. I'm getting off track, solder is the best way to go for UHF, or use whatever "N" connector Time recommends for their cables. "Chris W" wrote in message news:tvZqf.41428$ih5.4963@dukeread11... Chuck S. wrote: Clamp types have cause me problems over the years, stay away from them. Crimp type work ok in the shack but not out side for a long time. If you are going to crimp and use it outside you certainly need to use some good adhesive lined shrink tube to seal it up. I'm curious why no one seems to like crimp. Other than the cost of the tools to do it right it seems like a much easier way to go. Crimping works great for other types of connections. Also I did a lot of browsing on Times Microwave's web site and about all they talk about are crimp and clamp on connectors, for the big cables it is clamp only, I think part of the reason for that is you would probably need a hydraulic crimping tool for those big cables :) Solder it by far the best way to go. Another type that works good outside is compression clamps. The ones meant to be used with hard line. They cost more, but unless you like climbing up a 60 foot tower in a contest, they are worth the cost! I like those, the only connectors I have put on so far is a solder/clamp N and a solder UHF, the N was a solder on pin, which was pretty easy and then the clamp on outer shell. The only hard part was getting the cable striped cleanly but a good coax stripper should fix that. That is the next thing I plan on buying, I just need to find a good one. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 12:14:19 -0500, "Tam/WB2TT" wrote: A ~200W soldering gun from Radio Shack or Home Depot will also work fine. Tam/WB2TT ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That's my preference too. Weller makes a 250 watt gun that works great for PL-259s. Heats up in a few seconds, unlike an iron, and cools down quickly. Be sure you get the 250 watt version, not the 125 watt. 73, Bill W6WRT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Crimp connectors work just fine when done properly, but I would not use them on anything above 2M. Then why is it that Times Microwave only shows how to put on crimp and clamp connectors on their cables on their web site. On their larger cables (LMR 900 and up) they only have clamp connectors. In all honesty, I don't have any real experience on most Times' Cables..... mostly with Belden and Alpha products, so can't be sure what connectors Times recommends for their larger RF cables. If you have the money, the best iron for soldering coax connectors would be one such as made by American Beauty..... but very pricey. I found an 150 watt one for $115, that doesn't seem too bad to me if it is that much better than others. I think most experienced technicians would agree that the large mass of the heating element on the American Beauty allows for a better and quicker solder job, with much less risk of damaging the cable. If you don't mind spending that money, I'd recommend the one you linked to. I have one similar to it, and no regrets. Ed K7AAT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Crimp is also very common in aerospace
and military. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
You only need low power iron to attach the
center conductor to the pin, the N connectors are clamp types. No tools needed. Chris W wrote: Luke wrote: hi Chris, Welmcome to ham radio, I am sure you will enjoy it as much as the rest of us have ! Since you are starting out, to solder you just need the iron, 100-120 watts with chisel tip is just fine, don't attempt with the lower wattage units, you end up damaging the coax dielectric and have more problems. Crimps have their place, but, you will need to buy or borrow the crimp frame tool along with the correct dies for the connectors you want to crimp. This is a lot more expensive then the solder iron. Be sure to buy and use name brand connectors, quality is worth the price, you buy it once. You can get a bag of the cheap ones to practice with and then use the good Amphenol or other brands. http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/a...ctions/274.pdf Actually I plan on going out of my way to avoid UHF connectors. I plan on doing a fair amount at 400+ mhz and the UHF connectors don't do well up there. So about the only place I will be using UHF is at the radio if I can't find a radio with N connectors. My watt meter has N connectors and so do my antennas. I'm not sure why anyone would want to use UHF on anything outside. The only way to protect a UHF from the weather is with some coax wrap but the N has a seal built in, of course some kind of wrap as additional protection isn't a bad idea either if it is done right. In some cases I may even replace the UHF connector in the radio with an N but only if it is an old radio no longer under warranty. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Yes, the 3/8" chisel tip is great.
100w or higher 700 deg. autotemp weller. many used on the forsale forums and ebay. Big difference between a heat sink and heat source ! Chris W wrote: I forgot to bring up resistive soldering, does any one use one of those? I guess if I get a big iron that will work good. I used a 140 watt gun for the UHF connector I did first, I hear the big irons work better because of the larger thermal mass, I may try the heat gun trick too. I have a small heat gun that will get up to 200 and something F or so. -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 14:01:08 -0600, Chris W wrote:
Bob Miller wrote: As Doc said, solder. Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. Thanks for the suggestion on the iron, I found it for $40 which isn't too bad. You'll need that kind of heat to solder coax connector outer shells to the braid. Get the ARRL Handbook, and look at their pages on soldering coax connectors. I guess the book you are talking about isn't the antenna book, I can't find much on soldering in there. If you have the ARRL Antenna Book (I have the 19th edition) page 24-21 talks about PL-259 assembly, and explains how to prepare the coax and solder it to the connector. This is in the chapter labled "Transmission Lines" if you have another edition of the book. bob k5qwg |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 01:05:36 -0600, Chris W wrote:
I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. You should not dismiss crimp connectors as inferior to soldered connections. Crimp connectors, properly executed with correct fitting dies, produce a very good result, they are good electrically, and they often have superior strength compared to "field serviceable" connectors (the solder / braid clamp) type. For my own use, I: - avoid PL-259 type connectors (that is not to mean UHF); - prefer N type for thicker cables and all outdoors (whether or not in the weather); - on Heliax, prefer the connectors that are sealed by injection of silicone into the backshell, ambivalent about whether the centre pin is soldered or spring contact (which are usually cheaper and quicker); - prefer BNC on thin patch cables and fly leads; - prefer crimped connectors to "field serviceable" connectors in indoors applications; - prefer sealed connectors for all outdoors applications, and question whether most sealed crimp connectors are actually effective through life; - keep a pair of multigrips handy for times when UHF connectors must be used. If you are choosing to use LMR cables, you might want to look at LMR195 (I think) which is dimensionally similar to RG58 and can use low cost RG58 crimp connectors. If you use BNC (or TNC for that matter), look at whether the connectors you buy locate / retain the centre pin independently of the wire connection. Owen -- |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
"'Doc" bravely wrote to "All" (23 Dec 05 11:22:03)
--- on the heady topic of " Crimp, Clamp or Solder?" 'D From: 'Doc 'D Xref: core-easynews rec.radio.amateur.antenna:221739 'D Chris, 'D Solder. 'D 'Doc Spot weld. Makes great thermocouple joints. A*s*i*m*o*v |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Get a Weller SP-120 soldering iron. It's 120 watts. About $46. You can typically find it by Googling. A ~200W soldering gun from Radio Shack or Home Depot will also work fine. Tam/WB2TT I'm a cheapskate who uses a soldering gun about as often as I make new coax lines. (It happens, but I don't spend much time at it.) If you have a Harbor Freight tool store near you, they have a 180 watt gun you can usually catch on sale for 6.99. Not as good as a Weller, I'm sure but so far the solder hasn't noticed. 73 Kip W6KIP |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
If a crimp is done properly, its consistently superior to solder, unless
you’re a NASA certified solder person. When I say properly, I mean well designed connectors with the correct crimp tool and tension. Much of the cheap, off shore cable assys with crimp connectors are sub standard and that can give crimp an unwarranted bad name. If you give the same crimp connectors, tools and instructions to a bunch of hams, you will get consistent results. Give the same group solder connectors and various heat implements and the results will vary from excellent to disastrous. Do you really know what’s inside that PL-259 that you just soldered to a piece of foam dielectric LMR cable? Did the solder gun turn the foam into a solid blob of some new kind of plastic inside the connector? Are you positive the heat didn’t make the center conductor migrate in the dielectric? Did the solder flow up the braid and make a future failure point beyond the connector? I participated in assembling an aircraft wiring harness once (will never do that again) and solder was completely off limits, only crimp connectors could be used. The reasons for crimp were consistency in performance, the ability to audit the crimp tools and people’s lives were at stake if something failed. Mike Chris W wrote: I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I vote all 3 crimp it clamp it and solder it. make a good mechanical connection - then solder it. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 01:19:59 -0500, "Hal Rosser" wrote: I vote all 3 crimp it clamp it and solder it. make a good mechanical connection - then solder it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Don't forget to add Loctite, spot weld, drop forge, nuclear laser, explosive forming, refractory conditioning, epoxy, RTV, sixteen layers of Scotch #33 tape and the Pope's blessing. Those who are non-Catholics have a problem. :-) 73, Bill W6WRT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Make that Scotch #33+ pelase....
Bill Turner wrote: ORIGINAL MESSAGE: On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 01:19:59 -0500, "Hal Rosser" wrote: I vote all 3 crimp it clamp it and solder it. make a good mechanical connection - then solder it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Don't forget to add Loctite, spot weld, drop forge, nuclear laser, explosive forming, refractory conditioning, epoxy, RTV, sixteen layers of Scotch #33 tape and the Pope's blessing. Those who are non-Catholics have a problem. :-) 73, Bill W6WRT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
I recommend cryogenic processing of all coax connectors !
http://www.metal-wear.com/ Don't forget to add Loctite, spot weld, drop forge, nuclear laser, explosive forming, refractory conditioning, epoxy, RTV, sixteen layers of Scotch #33 tape and the Pope's blessing. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Make that Scotch #33+ pelase....
Negative Scotchfil insulation putty, followed by Scotch 88+ (as opposed to 33+) scotch 88 is weatherproof. Then a little Scotchkote insulating varnish. Then take it all to a motor repair shop and send it through the VPI process. no to welding no to loctite and RTV |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Hal Rosser wrote:
Make that Scotch #33+ pelase.... Negative Scotchfil insulation putty, followed by Scotch 88+ (as opposed to 33+) scotch 88 is weatherproof. Then a little Scotchkote insulating varnish. Then take it all to a motor repair shop and send it through the VPI process. no to welding no to loctite and RTV So anyhow, why are crimps inferior to soldering? - 73 de Mike KB3EIA - |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
alex wrote:
Crimp is also very common in aerospace and military. And probably for a reason! ;^) - 73 de Mike KB3EIA - |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Chris W wrote:
I am new in ham radio and want to get set up to make the coax assemblies I will inevitably be needing in the future. I am planing on using only LMR style coax 240, 400, 600 and maybe some 900 if I get into the 1.2ghz stuff. So is it better to use the crimp, clamp or solder on connectors. In the case of the center conductor, there are some where that is solder and the outer is crimp or clamp so is crimp and or clamp ok for the outer conductor and solder better for the inner? I welcome all points of view on this. Thanks for you input. USA DOD and NASA [DOD STD 454 et al] specifications insist that both a secure and stable mechanical connection, crimp or clamp, be used for strength, temperature and fatigue stability; and, that solder or weld be used, occassion appropriate, for electrical connectivity. In the typical amateur usage that would include a strain relief [crimp or clamp] for those connections where a mechanical stress [bend or weight] and solder. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
So anyhow, why are crimps inferior to soldering? - 73 de Mike KB3EIA - crimps can 'work loose' Same reason you have 5 lug nuts on your wheel instead of 2 or 3. |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 23:04:44 -0500, "Hal Rosser" wrote: crimps can 'work loose' Same reason you have 5 lug nuts on your wheel instead of 2 or 3. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Nonsense. Properly crimped, the wire will break before the crimp "works loose". Your tire has multiple lug nuts to spread the stress, not because a smaller number will "work loose". 73, Bill W6WRT |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
Hal Rosser wrote:
So anyhow, why are crimps inferior to soldering? - 73 de Mike KB3EIA - crimps can 'work loose' Same reason you have 5 lug nuts on your wheel instead of 2 or 3. Why are crimp connections used by some of the outfits who have a critical interest in the catastrophic effects of a failure? - 73 de Mike KB3EIA - |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Nonsense. Properly crimped, the wire will break before the crimp "works loose". Your tire has multiple lug nuts to spread the stress, not because a smaller number will "work loose". 73, Bill W6WRT Guess that's right, let's see now. Formula ! car wheels just have one big lug nut, don't they? Harold KD5SAK |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
kd5sak wrote:
"Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Nonsense. Properly crimped, the wire will break before the crimp "works loose". Your tire has multiple lug nuts to spread the stress, not because a smaller number will "work loose". 73, Bill W6WRT Guess that's right, let's see now. Formula ! car wheels just have one big lug nut, don't they? Yes, and six drive pegs http://www.f1-country.com/f1-enginee.../wheelrim.html so the nut only holds the wheel to the hub and doesn't take the stresses of propelling the car. W8LNA |
Crimp, Clamp or Solder?
"W8LNA" wrote in message ... kd5sak wrote: "Bill Turner" wrote in message ... Nonsense. Properly crimped, the wire will break before the crimp "works loose". Your tire has multiple lug nuts to spread the stress, not because a smaller number will "work loose". 73, Bill W6WRT Guess that's right, let's see now. Formula ! car wheels just have one big lug nut, don't they? Yes, and six drive pegs http://www.f1-country.com/f1-enginee.../wheelrim.html so the nut only holds the wheel to the hub and doesn't take the stresses of propelling the car. W8LNA On street wheels the nuts do support torque, but not like a single central one would (like the formula 1 without the pegs). The holes in the wheel are tapered, the nut seats on the taper and the lug shaft (threaded lug) does not contact the wheel hole. The torque is transferred by radial forces on the nuts. (pardon any unintended pun) 73, Steve, K9DCI |
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