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#1
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#3
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Bob wrote:
snip My point is, why not make a simple ground plane for the attic that may not get bothered by surroundings as much as the J-pole. Bob I made one of those antennas right after I got my Tech license. Hit the local repeater with no problems. I guess I forgot or thought it was too simple for the current application. jimbo |
#4
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![]() "Bob" wrote in message . com... The J-pole crowd seems to tout fantastic claims about this antenna and I have never been impressed. Many people have tested the J-pole against other easy to make antennas and the end fed half wave J-pole usually does not stand up to even it’s brother, the center fed half wave dipole. I assume the decrease in performance is due to mistakes in assembling and tuning the matching section. Here is a link to a group that tested some J-poles against other antennas in the CA desert and the J-pole lost to even simple 1/4 wave ground plane types. http://www.geocities.com/SiliconVall...5/anttest.html snip A quick look at the numbers doesn't make the j-pole look so all-fired bad. "Losing" by 1 dB or so isn't a serious loss. Ham radio isn't exactly the Kentucky Derby. I don't know what "fantastic claims" you've heard, but my affinity for the j-pole comes from its simplicity and durability. It's a halfwave vertical that requires no ground plane and can often be matched to 1:1 at the sweet spot. Mounting is a dream -- it even works if you drop the low end into a plumbing vent pipe. (How would I know that? ;-) I have never built a center-fed halfwave, but we use a bunch of them in the Navy -- call them "stovepipes" because of the way the fiberglass housings look -- and they work very, very well. The elements are large metal cylinders, tending to make them quite broadband. I do not know how they're fed ... balun or what. John , KD6VKW |
#5
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The J-pole crowd seems to tout fantastic claims about this antenna and I
....[snip].... ... my affinity for the j-pole comes from its simplicity and durability. ... Mounting is a dream -- it even works if you drop the low end into a plumbing vent pipe. (How would I know that? ;-) ....[snip].... I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went to pot. Did I do something wrong? (I concluded the J-pole must be VERY sensitive to its surroundings.) -- --Myron A. Calhoun. Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
#6
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wrote:
I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went to pot. Did I do something wrong? What kind of metal was behind the window frame? -- 73, Cecil http://www.qsl.net/w5dxp |
#7
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I once made a J-pole from 300-ohm twinlead and tweaked it until it worked
OK while hanging from the ceiling, but when I moved it over next to a wood-framed picture window (hung it from the window casing), the SWR went to pot. Did I do something wrong? What kind of metal was behind the window frame? The house was old enuf that I'm sure it was made of wood, and since it was a PICTURE window, there were no sash weights, either. So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials? -- --Myron A. Calhoun. Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTXS). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
#8
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#9
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In article , wrote:
What kind of metal was behind the window frame? The house was old enuf that I'm sure it was made of wood, and since it was a PICTURE window, there were no sash weights, either. So the question remains: are J-poles sensitive to nearby materials? That depends on the materials. Conductive, or lossy-dielectric materials seem to have a significant effect especially when located near the high-impedance points. When I built a ladder-line J-pole and hung it next to my house's outside wall, it de-tuned quite badly. Its performance stank so badly that I could barely reach a nearby repeater. When I hung it by an inside wall, it was not de-tuned enough to affect the radio's performance appreciably (I didn't have an MFJ meter at the time and so don't know the actual degree of de-tuning). I was able to hit the repeater quite well even though the antenna was further inside the house. The first (outside) wall was stucco... with embedded chicken wire. The second (inner) wall was drywall and lumber. I suspect that exterior brick, or stone, or wet wood, would fall somewhere in between the two in terms of de-tuning potential. My guess is that the classic J-pole may be somewhat more vulnerable to being de-tuned by nearby materials than a center-fed half-wave radiator. The quarter-wave matching section is often fairly critical of adjustment - I've read reports that even small changes in the configuration of the upper potion of the matching section (e.g. material near the open end of the stub, or changes in the spacing) can cause some fairly large changes in the J-pole's feedpoint impedance. Standard J-pole antennas seem to work most stably when built of rigid materials and mounted "in the clear". I haven't read any reports of actual experiments which attempted to quantify the tuning stability of the classic J-pole, compared with variants like the Arrow (a.k.a. Cebik's nontypical design), the open-sleeve, and the sperrtopf coaxial design, or compared with a center-fed dipole or other varieties of halfwave radiator. It'd be an interesting study to try to put together. -- Dave Platt AE6EO Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads! |