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LS-3 speaker
I would like to restore the original connections of an LS-3 army louspeaker that
I had modified many years ago, but I am unable to find the connection diagram on google. Inside the speaker there is a high-to-low impedance transformer, but I am not sure whether both the low- and the high-impedance connections were brought to the exterior. Also, I am not sure on whether one of both transformer windings were connected to ground. Can any one please let me know the original connections of the input three-contact jack? Thanks & 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
I sent a couple of pics to you..
Let me know if you didn't get them Hank "Antonio Vernucci" wrote in message .. . I would like to restore the original connections of an LS-3 army louspeaker that I had modified many years ago, but I am unable to find the connection diagram on google. Inside the speaker there is a high-to-low impedance transformer, but I am not sure whether both the low- and the high-impedance connections were brought to the exterior. Also, I am not sure on whether one of both transformer windings were connected to ground. Can any one please let me know the original connections of the input three-contact jack? Thanks & 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
Antonio Vernucci wrote:
I would like to restore the original connections of an LS-3 army louspeaker that I had modified many years ago, but I am unable to find the connection diagram on google. Inside the speaker there is a high-to-low impedance transformer, but I am not sure whether both the low- and the high-impedance connections were brought to the exterior. Also, I am not sure on whether one of both transformer windings were connected to ground. Can any one please let me know the original connections of the input three-contact jack? Thanks & 73 Tony I0JX The connector used is the 3-pin military mic connector, same as on the front panel of the BC-312 and '342. The high impedance side (only) of the transformer goes to the tip and ground. The low impedance speaker winding goes to the voice coil taps, only. I have come across a few LS-3's that used tip and ring but don't believe that's correct. Reason is, the LS-3 was designed for the above receivers and BC-312 receiver (only) has DC (filament) voltage on the ring connection. WA5CAB may have add'l info as he sells new LS-3s. Hope this assists you. de K3HVG -- Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.Newsfeeds.com |
LS-3 speaker
yes, thanks very much
Tony "Henry Kolesnik" ha scritto nel messaggio ... I sent a couple of pics to you.. Let me know if you didn't get them Hank "Antonio Vernucci" wrote in message .. . I would like to restore the original connections of an LS-3 army louspeaker that I had modified many years ago, but I am unable to find the connection diagram on google. Inside the speaker there is a high-to-low impedance transformer, but I am not sure whether both the low- and the high-impedance connections were brought to the exterior. Also, I am not sure on whether one of both transformer windings were connected to ground. Can any one please let me know the original connections of the input three-contact jack? Thanks & 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
Thanks Jeep.
even though it may not matter much, do you know whether the voice coil is grounded on one side? 73 Tony I0JX ------------------------------------------------------ The connector used is the 3-pin military mic connector, same as on the front panel of the BC-312 and '342. The high impedance side (only) of the transformer goes to the tip and ground. The low impedance speaker winding goes to the voice coil taps, only. I have come across a few LS-3's that used tip and ring but don't believe that's correct. Reason is, the LS-3 was designed for the above receivers and BC-312 receiver (only) has DC (filament) voltage on the ring connection. WA5CAB may have add'l info as he sells new LS-3s. Hope this assists you. de K3HVG -- Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.Newsfeeds.com |
LS-3 speaker
Antonio Vernucci wrote:
Thanks Jeep. even though it may not matter much, do you know whether the voice coil is grounded on one side? 73 Tony I0JX Tony, I looked inside a new one, just out of the original box. NO speaker connections are connected to ground. -- Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.Newsfeeds.com |
LS-3 speaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "K3HVG" Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 7:59 PM Subject: LS-3 speaker Tony, I looked inside a new one, just out of the original box. NO speaker connections are connected to ground. Thanks for your time Jeep. By the way, my BC-191 works fine now, but I came to the conclusion that operating with that dynamotor is really unpleasant. So I am in the process of building an AC supply. I hope that, with the AC-powered filaments, no hum will show up in the transmit audio. 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
Antonio Vernucci wrote:
----- Original Message ----- From: "K3HVG" Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.boatanchors Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 7:59 PM Subject: LS-3 speaker Tony, I looked inside a new one, just out of the original box. NO speaker connections are connected to ground. Thanks for your time Jeep. By the way, my BC-191 works fine now, but I came to the conclusion that operating with that dynamotor is really unpleasant. So I am in the process of building an AC supply. I hope that, with the AC-powered filaments, no hum will show up in the transmit audio. 73 Tony I0JX Tony, From various reports, use of the dynamotor may well be better than a.c. supplies in that the dynamotor MAY provide better regulation than external supplies. If your a.c. supply is stiff and capable of not sagging under voice peaks, etc. it will be just fine. Personally, I use one with a pair of 6336B regulators. That really helps the residual FMing of the signal. Also, try the "San Luis Obispo" fine tuning procedure for the frequency you intend to use the most. That will also quiet things down a bit. Regards Jeep/K3HVG -- Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.Newsfeeds.com |
LS-3 speaker
Tony, From various reports, use of the dynamotor may well be better than a.c.
supplies in that the dynamotor MAY provide better regulation than external supplies. If your a.c. supply is stiff and capable of not sagging under voice peaks, etc. it will be just fine. Personally, I use one with a pair of 6336B regulators. That really helps the residual FMing of the signal. Also, try the "San Luis Obispo" fine tuning procedure for the frequency you intend to use the most. That will also quiet things down a bit. Regards Jeep/K3HVG OK Jeep, thanks for your advice. I would not like to build a stabilized power supply, as that would be quite a huge machine. Anyway I shall give a look to the diagram and see whether there would be any simple way to feed just the oscillator tube with a separate stabilized HV. With regard to voice peaks, using big output capacitor should help. I am more worried about CW because, even with a big output capacitor, voltage will tend to decrease along the duration of a dash or a dot, and this may cause chirp. Going back to my original question, the first test I shall do is to feed the filaments with a transformer, while keeping the dynamotor for the HV. I want to be sure that powering filaments on AC (instead of DC) does not cause an unacceptable hum on the audio. By the way, I have been looking for a spare VT-25 (10Y) tube, but I could not find one for less than $70. Apparently that tube is one of those that had the disgrace to fall into the esoteric hi-fi aficionados circuit, who are prepared to pay almost any price for the promise of a "warmer" sound. 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
Antonio Vernucci wrote:
I would not like to build a stabilized power supply, as that would be quite a huge machine. Anyway I shall give a look to the diagram and see whether there would be any simple way to feed just the oscillator tube with a separate stabilized HV. I know it seems like cheating.... but... consider a zener and TIP50 darlington. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
LS-3 speaker
I would not like to build a stabilized power supply, as that would be quite a huge machine. Anyway I shall give a look to the diagram and see whether there would be any simple way to feed just the oscillator tube with a separate stabilized HV. With regard to voice peaks, using big output capacitor should help. I am more worried about CW because, even with a big output capacitor, voltage will tend to decrease along the duration of a dash or a dot, and this may cause chirp. Going back to my original question, the first test I shall do is to feed the filaments with a transformer, while keeping the dynamotor for the HV. I want to be sure that powering filaments on AC (instead of DC) does not cause an unacceptable hum on the audio. By the way, I have been looking for a spare VT-25 (10Y) tube, but I could not find one for less than $70. Apparently that tube is one of those that had the disgrace to fall into the esoteric hi-fi aficionados circuit, who are prepared to pay almost any price for the promise of a "warmer" sound. 73 Tony I0JX Oh, Wow! Been a long time ago, but more than 50 years ago, three or four of us, (W7KGV, W7MGG, W7LAN and I, W7LTQ) were tinkering with BC-375's, the 28 volt version of the BC-191. The power supply regulation with the dynamotor seemed to be almost entirely dependant on the DC input to the dynamotor. If one had new, hunky batteries, with very short (two feet max) very heavy (gauge # 000, maybe) leads and a constantly running battery charger, the CW wasn't too bad. HOWEVER, my batteries were old and weak, dynamotor input leads were doubled up #10 house wires, and one almost had to copy the transmitted CW with one hand on the tuning knob. (Yeow, ditty, yeow yeow) A long dash slowed the dynamotor to maybe half speed, and the glowing filaments went from white hot to more like cherry red. Later, an AC power supply was cooked up, using conventional circuitry of the day, pair of 816 mercury vapors, "swinging" choke input to pi section filter, maybe 4 microfarad filter condensers, a "smoothing" choke and a 50,000 ohm bleeder resistor. The '375's filaments were lit with 10 volt AC (transformer), and a dropping resistor for the speech amplifier (10Y)'s filament. Seems to me, there was something about which side of the 10Y's filament was ground that made a difference in the hum level. With that sucker, delivering a stiff 1200 or 1300 volts on the MOPA's final VT-4C, it's plates would turn a soft red blush on long dashes..... and would work anyone you could hear! Old Chief Lynn |
LS-3 speaker
With that sucker, delivering a stiff 1200 or 1300 volts on the MOPA's
final VT-4C, it's plates would turn a soft red blush on long dashes..... and would work anyone you could hear! Old Chief Lynn Thanks for info, I have no problem at all with the dynamotor, as I power it using a stabilized computer mainframe power supply that easily delivers 100A with no voltage drop at all. But the dynamotor is too noisy; moreoverr it becomes fairly hot if kept running for long periods. Yes, the solution of using a resonant.choke power supply is probably the most appropriate for obtaining a stable HV, but it is not easy to find a suitable choke. Will see what I can do. 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
I know it seems like cheating.... but... consider a zener and TIP50
darlington. --scott Yes, using a series regulator is certainly a possibility. With a current of up to 350 mA (average) and a voltage drop across the regulator that cannot reasonably be lower than 250V, the power dissipated in the regulator would be around 90W, which is not enormous but not negligible either. However in my case I plan to obtain 1000VDC using a voltage doubler. So I could use two separate series regulators on each of the two 500VDC arms of the supply. This would probably make the design simpler. 73 Tony I0JX |
LS-3 speaker
Antonio Vernucci wrote:
With that sucker, delivering a stiff 1200 or 1300 volts on the MOPA's final VT-4C, it's plates would turn a soft red blush on long dashes..... and would work anyone you could hear! Old Chief Lynn Thanks for info, I have no problem at all with the dynamotor, as I power it using a stabilized computer mainframe power supply that easily delivers 100A with no voltage drop at all. But the dynamotor is too noisy; moreoverr it becomes fairly hot if kept running for long periods. Yes, the solution of using a resonant.choke power supply is probably the most appropriate for obtaining a stable HV, but it is not easy to find a suitable choke. Will see what I can do. 73 Tony I0JX Tony, I wrote up a mod I came up with for Electric Radio, last year. I'll send you the diagram for it if you'd like. Essentially, it moves the filament 24v from the output side of the power contactor (inside the dynamotor relay box, on top) and moves it to the input side. That way, the filaments light up and gets things warmed up whenever power is applied. When you want to xmit, just hit the power switch. When you're done turn the switch off. My next trick will be to route PTT to an external relay which will both key the transmitter and turn on the dynamotor (paralleling the front panel power switch). When PTT is released, the dynamotor stops. That way, no duty cycle problems arise. Note also that in the manual, it says that the duty cycle of the dynamotor is about 30 minutes, and that is at altitude. At room temp, I figure one has about 15 minutes before things bad happen. The book also says for ground maintenance activity, remove the dynamotor end bells for cooling. Unlike the ART-13 and similar heavy-duty dynamotors, there is no throughput cooling blower on the PE-73 or BD-77. Regards Jeep/K3HVG -- Posted Via Newsfeeds.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Service ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.Newsfeeds.com |
LS-3 speaker
Tony, I wrote up a mod I came up with for Electric Radio, last year. I'll
send you the diagram for it if you'd like. Essentially, it moves the filament 24v from the output side of the power contactor (inside the dynamotor relay box, on top) and moves it to the input side. That way, the filaments light up and gets things warmed up whenever power is applied. When you want to xmit, just hit the power switch. When you're done turn the switch off. My next trick will be to route PTT to an external relay which will both key the transmitter and turn on the dynamotor (paralleling the front panel power switch). When PTT is released, the dynamotor stops. That way, no duty cycle problems arise. Note also that in the manual, it says that the duty cycle of the dynamotor is about 30 minutes, and that is at altitude. At room temp, I figure one has about 15 minutes before things bad happen. The book also says for ground maintenance activity, remove the dynamotor end bells for cooling. Unlike the ART-13 and similar heavy-duty dynamotors, there is no throughput cooling blower on the PE-73 or BD-77. Thanks Jeep, I have already separated the 12VDC filament supply from the dynamotor 12VDC supply. However I cannot use the dynamotor in the "PTT mode" because my dynamotor power supply is unable to start the dynamotor quickly. Though being a 100A stabilized power supply, its overcurrent protection trips until the dynamotor has not reached a certain speed. So, I must run a start-up procedure which takes time and is incompatible with operating the dynamotor in PTT mode. Perhaps putting a big car battery in parallel to the supply would solve the problem. In any case I prefer not to use that noisy dynamotor and I am therefore currently building an AC supply. 73 Tony I0JX |
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