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#11
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Phil Nelson wrote:
Is there supposed to be a mechanical stop to keep one from turning the band change dial too far and screwing it up, or from turning it the wrong way?? I'm not an SX-28 owner or expert but it looks to me like it's a six position bandswitch with 60 deg indexing. Why would it need a stop? It seems it would be a lot better to just allow continous rotation so you wouldnt have to go back through all the positions when going from a high band to a low band. 73, Roger -- Remove tilde (~) to reply Remember the USS Liberty (AGTR-5) http://ussliberty.org/ |
#12
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It seems it would be a lot better to just allow continous rotation
so you wouldnt have to go back through all the positions when going from a high band to a low band. Yes, on a simpler radio that doesn't have a moving band pilot lamp or shadow indicator, you certainly could let the bandswitch rotate 360 degrees in either direction. This stop is needed because the SX-28 has two string-driven shadow band indicators, behind the main tuning and bandspread dials, respectively. The indicators run on little elevators that can go up in one direction, and down in the other. When an elevator hits the top floor, there's only one direction to go, and vice versa :-) The diagram at http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/SX28DialStringing.jpg doesn't show all of the parts and pieces, but it does show the strings, springs, and major doohickeys that make it work. The crossbar carrying the main tuner shadow indicator is shown where an arrow points to C. The shadow indicators are simply bent pieces of flat metal with arrow shapes on the end, which create shadows by sitting between the pilot lamps and the tuning dials. Looking at the diagram, find the main tuner bandshaft, where it says "connected to main tuning knob." If you turn the main tuning knob counterclockwise, to move you from a lower band to the next higher band, that will tighten the two sets of strings and lift the two shadow indicators upward on their elevators. Turn it clockwise, and it will lower the elevators one floor. But beyond the top and bottom floor, you can't go any farther without breaking the strings. Lest you think this is over-complicated, my Midwest DD-18 ( http://antiqueradio.org/MidwestDD-18.htm ) has gizmos that move a pilot lamp up and down behind a red/green colored screen to illuminate the chosen bands on the tuning dial. A "Tunalite" circuit is fed off the AVC line and darkens/brightens the pilot lamp as you tune into a station. A lamp mask on the bottom half of the dial changes to illuminate the Wavelength markings accordingly. The good news is that the whole thing is gear-driven -- no strings to replace! Regards, Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html |
#13
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Phil Nelson wrote:
From using my first SX-28, I have to say that the stop feels more mechanical (i.e., look at your detent assembly), not like hitting the end of a string. If your bandswitch turns smoothly from one band to the next, is it possible that somebody disassembled the bandshaft and left out some pieces, or forgot to tighten things down? Regards, Phil Nelson Phil: Yeah, it feels like you can turn it past the lower (or upper band) and go around again and break something. It feels like it's just the cord strength preventing you from continuing. I don't remember seeing those blocking washers but I will go inside again and look. Thanks again Phil, your website has been a huge inspiration and source of information for work I have done on my 28. Now if I could just get that AVC working right...... -- Brian Denley http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html |
#14
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In article , "Scott W. Harvey"
writes: I have seen the "official" tool that was originally used to attach/remove these rings, and it is a fairly complicated gizmo....Probably unobtainable unless special-ordered. With that tool, it's a one-handed job. If the end tabs of the C-ring each have a hole, then the official tool is pretty simple. I have a couple of those tools. Unforch, they are "Hong Kong Hardware" quality tools, and so it's a one-handed job, but very hard on the throat from the constant profanity needed to "cheer the team" to success. Maybe you are talking about a larger version of the simple rings, with no tabs, that hold pot shafts into a pot, for example. Those would require two pliers. 73, Mike K. Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me. |
#15
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In article t, "Phil Nelson"
writes: This stop is needed because the SX-28 has two string-driven shadow band indicators, behind the main tuning and bandspread dials, respectively. The indicators run on little elevators that can go up in one direction, and down in the other. When an elevator hits the top floor, there's only one direction to go, and vice versa :-) The Hammarlund SP-600 has an "elevator" pointer, but it seems to be cam-driven, so it goes all the way up or donw in a hurry when you roll over the band selector. Of course, it almost takes two hands to turn the mechanism :-) BTW, I would want the limit stop detents place up front by the knob, not in the rear of the bandswitch, so a real gorilla type wouldn't over-torque the switch shaft. Just my two cents -- Mike K. Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me. |
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