I get NO reading of anykind between the top cap and pins 1 & 4......
according to the diagram pins 1 & 4 are the cathode/ filament and the cap is
the plate.... it should read like a dioad shouldn't it?

Dave
k5drc

"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
hillbilly3302 wrote:
thanks for the replies... I have an old Heathkit Warrior Amp (4-811's)
and
it has two of these 1N2637's in it it had some hum so I replaced the
oil
filled cap. it still has a bit of hum so I figured maybe one of the
rectifiers might be bad.... need to fix it or Ill sell it as is for
about
250.00 has 4 brand new 811's

If one side of those things goes open, you don't just get a little hum,
you get a hell of a lot. They don't go leaky very often but you can use
the diode setting on a multitester to make sure of that.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

hillbilly3302 wrote:
I get NO reading of anykind between the top cap and pins 1 & 4......
according to the diagram pins 1 & 4 are the cathode/ filament and the cap is
the plate.... it should read like a dioad shouldn't it?

Remember it's got a whole stack of diodes in there, each with .6V drop. So
you need to put five or ten volts across it. A lot of modern DVMs won't do
this except on the diode test function.

It's easier to put 120V through it with a 60W light bulb in series, then
measure the drop across it if you don't have the right meter.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."