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Argus September 20th 03 02:13 PM

Vacuum tube technical question
 
Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College




Michael A. Terrell September 20th 03 05:22 PM

Argus wrote:

Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College


Tube cement. GC used to sell it for repairs.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Michael A. Terrell September 20th 03 05:22 PM

Argus wrote:

Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College


Tube cement. GC used to sell it for repairs.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Tom Coates September 20th 03 10:41 PM

I once used regular 2-part epoxy of the type sold in small tubes in a
variety store. It was visible but inconspicuous and did the job well.

Tom, N3IJ

"Argus" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate

caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College






Tom Coates September 20th 03 10:41 PM

I once used regular 2-part epoxy of the type sold in small tubes in a
variety store. It was visible but inconspicuous and did the job well.

Tom, N3IJ

"Argus" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate

caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College






Scott Schrader September 21st 03 01:29 AM

I have fixed a couple loose bases with 5-minute epoxy as well... on 01a
tubes... I agree it gets it done.

Tom Coates wrote:

I once used regular 2-part epoxy of the type sold in small tubes in a
variety store. It was visible but inconspicuous and did the job well.

Tom, N3IJ

"Argus" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate

caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College




-- If it's a "new economy," why do they want my obsolete old money?

Scott Schrader September 21st 03 01:29 AM

I have fixed a couple loose bases with 5-minute epoxy as well... on 01a
tubes... I agree it gets it done.

Tom Coates wrote:

I once used regular 2-part epoxy of the type sold in small tubes in a
variety store. It was visible but inconspicuous and did the job well.

Tom, N3IJ

"Argus" wrote in message
hlink.net...
Gentlemen:

Can anyone tell me what the tube manufacturers used to cement the plate

caps
to the tube envelope?

Thanks-for-reading

Prof. R. Long
Ivy Tech State College




-- If it's a "new economy," why do they want my obsolete old money?

Scott Dorsey September 22nd 03 05:54 PM

Argus wrote:
Thanks a bunch for your input guys.


Tube caps and bases used to be cemented with high temperature frit-type
cements. Sauereisen cement or a mixture of litharge and glycerine used
to be popular. The same sort of things that are used to cement bases onto
light bulbs today.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Scott Dorsey September 22nd 03 05:54 PM

Argus wrote:
Thanks a bunch for your input guys.


Tube caps and bases used to be cemented with high temperature frit-type
cements. Sauereisen cement or a mixture of litharge and glycerine used
to be popular. The same sort of things that are used to cement bases onto
light bulbs today.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Joe Curry September 22nd 03 07:23 PM

Sauereisen cement is still available. See www.sauereisen.com under cement
products, air dried.

I have also had success with high temperature silicone gasket cement, the
red stuff. It is available at any auto supply store.

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.

73,

Joe
K3ICO
"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
Argus wrote:
Thanks a bunch for your input guys.


Tube caps and bases used to be cemented with high temperature frit-type
cements. Sauereisen cement or a mixture of litharge and glycerine used
to be popular. The same sort of things that are used to cement bases onto
light bulbs today.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."




Joe Curry September 22nd 03 07:23 PM

Sauereisen cement is still available. See www.sauereisen.com under cement
products, air dried.

I have also had success with high temperature silicone gasket cement, the
red stuff. It is available at any auto supply store.

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.

73,

Joe
K3ICO
"Scott Dorsey" wrote in message
...
Argus wrote:
Thanks a bunch for your input guys.


Tube caps and bases used to be cemented with high temperature frit-type
cements. Sauereisen cement or a mixture of litharge and glycerine used
to be popular. The same sort of things that are used to cement bases onto
light bulbs today.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."




Mike Knudsen September 23rd 03 03:55 AM

In article om, "Joe Curry"
writes:

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.


I have never had cyano glues (Crazy, Super, etc.) hold *anything* together for
any length of time, even at room temps. I've come to consider these glues as
one big consumer fraud. Certainly don't work on plastics. --Mike K.

Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me.

Mike Knudsen September 23rd 03 03:55 AM

In article om, "Joe Curry"
writes:

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.


I have never had cyano glues (Crazy, Super, etc.) hold *anything* together for
any length of time, even at room temps. I've come to consider these glues as
one big consumer fraud. Certainly don't work on plastics. --Mike K.

Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me.

Scott Dorsey September 23rd 03 04:21 AM

Mike Knudsen wrote:
In article om, "Joe Curry"
writes:

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.


Red silicone RTV is great for tube bases and for caps, even on power tubes
that run very hot. However, it's also very expensive compared with the
standard cements. Fine if you are doing one or two tubes, not so fine if
you are on a production basis turning out thousands. But great for repair
work, and available at the auto parts store.

I have never had cyano glues (Crazy, Super, etc.) hold *anything* together for
any length of time, even at room temps. I've come to consider these glues as
one big consumer fraud. Certainly don't work on plastics. --Mike K.


Cyanoacrilate glues are very strong in expansion mode. You can cement two
things together and put a heavy force pulling them apart and they will stick
very effectively for a long time, even when wet.

They are very weak in shear mode. Even a very small amount of shear force
across a cement join will cause it to fail eventually. Sometimes that
eventually is in a few hours. Almost every application where you would be
using cement involves some shear force.

They also do not fill voids at all, even the fancy "gel" types. You need
a VERY clean mate between the two surfaces. Even a slight bit of surface
roughness will dramatically weaken a join.

The cyanoacrilate stuff is very effective for a few things, like rubber
O-ring belts. For most things, though, it is a temporary fix at best.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Scott Dorsey September 23rd 03 04:21 AM

Mike Knudsen wrote:
In article om, "Joe Curry"
writes:

No matter what you use, it will have to handle the heat. It is not clear
that the cyanoacrylic materials (such as Crazy Glue) will hold up under the
temperatures to which power tubes are subjected.


Red silicone RTV is great for tube bases and for caps, even on power tubes
that run very hot. However, it's also very expensive compared with the
standard cements. Fine if you are doing one or two tubes, not so fine if
you are on a production basis turning out thousands. But great for repair
work, and available at the auto parts store.

I have never had cyano glues (Crazy, Super, etc.) hold *anything* together for
any length of time, even at room temps. I've come to consider these glues as
one big consumer fraud. Certainly don't work on plastics. --Mike K.


Cyanoacrilate glues are very strong in expansion mode. You can cement two
things together and put a heavy force pulling them apart and they will stick
very effectively for a long time, even when wet.

They are very weak in shear mode. Even a very small amount of shear force
across a cement join will cause it to fail eventually. Sometimes that
eventually is in a few hours. Almost every application where you would be
using cement involves some shear force.

They also do not fill voids at all, even the fancy "gel" types. You need
a VERY clean mate between the two surfaces. Even a slight bit of surface
roughness will dramatically weaken a join.

The cyanoacrilate stuff is very effective for a few things, like rubber
O-ring belts. For most things, though, it is a temporary fix at best.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."


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