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CW Only, Tube Transceiver
Hello,
Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW |
MW,
You just described the venerable Heathkit HW-16! Here are the basic characteristics: - All tube-type (OK, it has one transistor, but only one!) - covers 250 KHz of bandspread on 80, 40, and 15 meters - CW only - VFO receive - crystal transmit (can also use HG-10B external VFO) - built-in 115 VAC p/s - full break-in keying with sidetone - single-signal receiver - power output is about 65 Watts on 80, 50 Watts on 40, and 35 Watts on 15 These can be bought in working condition for about $75 give or take a few, and the VFO goes for $50 to $75. Crystals are getting "spendy" these days ($10 to $20 each these days). I would spend the extra money and buy the VFO. For about $150, you'll have a lot of fun! Oh, you will need a speaker, too. Any 8-Ohm communications speaker will do fine. I just picked up an HW-16 with HG-10B at a swap meet this past weekend. I got 'em running last night, although I still need to perform alignment on the VFO and give it a light cleaning. No, they're not for sale... been wanting a set for myself for a while now! 73, Dean K5DH In article , says... Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW |
MW,
You just described the venerable Heathkit HW-16! Here are the basic characteristics: - All tube-type (OK, it has one transistor, but only one!) - covers 250 KHz of bandspread on 80, 40, and 15 meters - CW only - VFO receive - crystal transmit (can also use HG-10B external VFO) - built-in 115 VAC p/s - full break-in keying with sidetone - single-signal receiver - power output is about 65 Watts on 80, 50 Watts on 40, and 35 Watts on 15 These can be bought in working condition for about $75 give or take a few, and the VFO goes for $50 to $75. Crystals are getting "spendy" these days ($10 to $20 each these days). I would spend the extra money and buy the VFO. For about $150, you'll have a lot of fun! Oh, you will need a speaker, too. Any 8-Ohm communications speaker will do fine. I just picked up an HW-16 with HG-10B at a swap meet this past weekend. I got 'em running last night, although I still need to perform alignment on the VFO and give it a light cleaning. No, they're not for sale... been wanting a set for myself for a while now! 73, Dean K5DH In article , says... Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW |
K5DH wrote:
I just picked up an HW-16 with HG-10B at a swap meet this past weekend. I got 'em running last night, although I still need to perform alignment on the VFO and give it a light cleaning. No, they're not for sale... been wanting a set for myself for a while now! 73, Dean K5DH And its worth the $15-20 bux to plunk down for a new xtal and move 15 to 20 meters. Easy mod, works great. -Bill |
K5DH wrote:
I just picked up an HW-16 with HG-10B at a swap meet this past weekend. I got 'em running last night, although I still need to perform alignment on the VFO and give it a light cleaning. No, they're not for sale... been wanting a set for myself for a while now! 73, Dean K5DH And its worth the $15-20 bux to plunk down for a new xtal and move 15 to 20 meters. Easy mod, works great. -Bill |
--exray-- wrote in message ...
M Wilson wrote: Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW Little ole HW-16 is hard to beat, VFO on the side. -Bill It would be hard to beat, since if it wasn't the only CW only transceiver with tubes, it would be among a handful. Nothing else comes to mind at the moment. Before SSB came along, transceivers were pretty rare at HF. The only tube non-SSB HF transceiver that comes to mind was that Gonset, was it a G-76? AM, and I can't remember if it actually included CW (or if the receiver was suitable). Once things started to become solid state, CW-transceivers became more common. Ten-Tec, the various Heathkit QRP transceivers, and those from smaller manufacturers. Michael VE2BVW |
--exray-- wrote in message ...
M Wilson wrote: Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW Little ole HW-16 is hard to beat, VFO on the side. -Bill It would be hard to beat, since if it wasn't the only CW only transceiver with tubes, it would be among a handful. Nothing else comes to mind at the moment. Before SSB came along, transceivers were pretty rare at HF. The only tube non-SSB HF transceiver that comes to mind was that Gonset, was it a G-76? AM, and I can't remember if it actually included CW (or if the receiver was suitable). Once things started to become solid state, CW-transceivers became more common. Ten-Tec, the various Heathkit QRP transceivers, and those from smaller manufacturers. Michael VE2BVW |
The HW-16 is a great idea, although the VFO adds another box, but
that's okay with me. Based on that, let me -revise- my request, to include tube receiver/transmitter combos... it does not need to be a transceiver. Suggestions? Thanks again folks! -mw --exray-- wrote in message ... M Wilson wrote: Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW Little ole HW-16 is hard to beat, VFO on the side. -Bill |
The HW-16 is a great idea, although the VFO adds another box, but
that's okay with me. Based on that, let me -revise- my request, to include tube receiver/transmitter combos... it does not need to be a transceiver. Suggestions? Thanks again folks! -mw --exray-- wrote in message ... M Wilson wrote: Hello, Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). Thanks! MW Little ole HW-16 is hard to beat, VFO on the side. -Bill |
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On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 01:09:23 UTC, (N2EY) wrote:
In article , (M Wilson) writes: Can someone suggest a CW only, all tube tranceiver for me? Nothing QRP, more like between 20 and 100 watts, no transmitter/receiver separate boxes, and no SSB transmitting capability. I want glowing tubes and CW, in one box (power supply, of course, on the side). What you describe is what I've been seeking for 30+ years. There ain't none made. So I built my own. Three of them, in fact. My latest one runs 100 watts out on 80, 40, and 20, has RIT, cascaded 8 pole 500 Hz filters, beam deflection mixer, no AGC, dial drive/capacitor from a BC-221, and lots more. The only semiconductors are a pair of 1N34s in the SWR bridge. 807s in the final, 866As in the power supply.... The HW-16 comes close, but it is not a *true* transceiver - it's a transmitter and receiver in one box with a common power supply. You have to re-zero the external VFO every time you QSY. 73 de Jim, N2EY Suppose you started with a Heathkit SB-101 (the 102 had a solid state LMO), and removed the mike amp tube. It would be a CW only tube transceiver, 2 6146's give you 100 Watts out. You could cascade two Heathkit 400 Hz filters, using the space for the SSB filter and just jumpering around the switch. Relatively compact. 1 kHz readout, great stability. No RIT though. You can probably buy a fixer for about $150. -- de ah6gi/4 |
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On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:31:07 UTC, (N2EY) wrote:
How about, put a piece of tape over the mike jack. Or even more realisticly, give up finding a Heathkit 2 prong mike connector. HAW! That's a good one! I spent a year looking for that connector. Someone told me that it's a still in production Amphenol part, or Amphenol sold the rights to someone, no one knew the part number but that Newark carried it. I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. None of the rigs are "ready to use". I've been working on my SB-303 collection. The plan is to clean up and restore the radios and eventually sell them off, keeping one SB-102/SB-303 combination, the 104A, and the CX7A. Seriously, though, that series is a good candidate for conversion to CW-only, as you suggest. Well, I wouldn't actually "modify" the radios. I'm a restorer, although I'm not a purest. One of my SB-200s has the Harbach soft key mod in it and I'm getting ready to add the mod to the other. My rules a 1) keep it looking factory stock, 2) if I modify it, do it out of sight and reversable. 3) no cutting sheetmetal but an added bracket or board is acceptable. 4) tack solder electrical mods. I'll replace components with close-enough and modern. I put a radial lead cap in place of an axial in an SB-303. The new cap is about half the size and has more capacity. I always operate with it off! Old trick, makes CW much more fun. AF gain way up, RF gain way down, RF gain used as volume control. Try it - you may like it. With AGC on, anyhting in the passband makes the gain go up and down. And since a CW signal is all ups and downs, having the AGC on can make QRM worse! Ever use a Drake 2B on slow AGC? It takes a LONG time for the gain to come back. Of course on fast, it's pumping the noise. After all these years using homebrew rigs whose tunable oscillators are built around variables from ARC-5 transmitters and BC-221s, I'm spoiled rotten. 6 kHz per turn of the big, skirted solid Bakelite tuning knob. Silky smooth when you have a good one. Almost not fit for polite company. I might have one of those in my basement. Big air cap, like a transmitter tuning capacitor but with a worm drive? Unless your junkbox has a pair of thsoe Heath CW filters, the Inrad may be cheaper! The Heath filters are only 4 pole, with 5:1 shape factor. I have lots of Heathkit filters. Most are in radios. I have one SB-303 with dual cascaded 2.1 filters in it. There is an audible difference in how fast signals vanish as you tune past them. Never thought to try that with CW filters. Has to be in the LMO. Maybe they use the sideband-offset thingie. I found one write up for the HW-101. That has a exposed VFO. The SB LMO is hard to remove from the radio and is built in layers. Also, Heath did not publish the internal details. Looked in a couple radios. Seems that the SB-10x and the SB-30x had different LMO's. The SB-30x LMO had a RTTY board on it. Here's another trick for the scrounger: Get both a Tempo One and an HW-100 or 101. Remove the often-balky Heath VFO and install the VFO from the Tempo. That Tempo (actually Yaesu) VFO is about the best thing in the rig, and it tunes the right range (5-5.5 MHz). And it is all set up for RIT! It might tune in the wrong direction. .... Or is that just the electrical direction? Classic Exchange is this weekend. The Type 7 is only about 12 years old. Maybe I'll have to drag the Type 6 out of storage... That's a conundrum. If you build a new design tube radio, why is that not a classic? Why is my 1970ish solid state, digital readout CX7A or SB-104A more a classic? you might be interested in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amateur-repairs About 1,000 of us hang out there and discuss fixing radios. de ah6gi/4 |
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:31:07 UTC, (N2EY) wrote:
How about, put a piece of tape over the mike jack. Or even more realisticly, give up finding a Heathkit 2 prong mike connector. HAW! That's a good one! I spent a year looking for that connector. Someone told me that it's a still in production Amphenol part, or Amphenol sold the rights to someone, no one knew the part number but that Newark carried it. I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. None of the rigs are "ready to use". I've been working on my SB-303 collection. The plan is to clean up and restore the radios and eventually sell them off, keeping one SB-102/SB-303 combination, the 104A, and the CX7A. Seriously, though, that series is a good candidate for conversion to CW-only, as you suggest. Well, I wouldn't actually "modify" the radios. I'm a restorer, although I'm not a purest. One of my SB-200s has the Harbach soft key mod in it and I'm getting ready to add the mod to the other. My rules a 1) keep it looking factory stock, 2) if I modify it, do it out of sight and reversable. 3) no cutting sheetmetal but an added bracket or board is acceptable. 4) tack solder electrical mods. I'll replace components with close-enough and modern. I put a radial lead cap in place of an axial in an SB-303. The new cap is about half the size and has more capacity. I always operate with it off! Old trick, makes CW much more fun. AF gain way up, RF gain way down, RF gain used as volume control. Try it - you may like it. With AGC on, anyhting in the passband makes the gain go up and down. And since a CW signal is all ups and downs, having the AGC on can make QRM worse! Ever use a Drake 2B on slow AGC? It takes a LONG time for the gain to come back. Of course on fast, it's pumping the noise. After all these years using homebrew rigs whose tunable oscillators are built around variables from ARC-5 transmitters and BC-221s, I'm spoiled rotten. 6 kHz per turn of the big, skirted solid Bakelite tuning knob. Silky smooth when you have a good one. Almost not fit for polite company. I might have one of those in my basement. Big air cap, like a transmitter tuning capacitor but with a worm drive? Unless your junkbox has a pair of thsoe Heath CW filters, the Inrad may be cheaper! The Heath filters are only 4 pole, with 5:1 shape factor. I have lots of Heathkit filters. Most are in radios. I have one SB-303 with dual cascaded 2.1 filters in it. There is an audible difference in how fast signals vanish as you tune past them. Never thought to try that with CW filters. Has to be in the LMO. Maybe they use the sideband-offset thingie. I found one write up for the HW-101. That has a exposed VFO. The SB LMO is hard to remove from the radio and is built in layers. Also, Heath did not publish the internal details. Looked in a couple radios. Seems that the SB-10x and the SB-30x had different LMO's. The SB-30x LMO had a RTTY board on it. Here's another trick for the scrounger: Get both a Tempo One and an HW-100 or 101. Remove the often-balky Heath VFO and install the VFO from the Tempo. That Tempo (actually Yaesu) VFO is about the best thing in the rig, and it tunes the right range (5-5.5 MHz). And it is all set up for RIT! It might tune in the wrong direction. .... Or is that just the electrical direction? Classic Exchange is this weekend. The Type 7 is only about 12 years old. Maybe I'll have to drag the Type 6 out of storage... That's a conundrum. If you build a new design tube radio, why is that not a classic? Why is my 1970ish solid state, digital readout CX7A or SB-104A more a classic? you might be interested in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amateur-repairs About 1,000 of us hang out there and discuss fixing radios. de ah6gi/4 |
In article ,
No Spam (ckh) wrote: I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. RF Parts, Inc.? Newark has a LOT of stuff in the Amphenol line, including all the Tuchel connectors. They can also get most of the old Cannon types from Alcatel. The problem is that you need the EXACT part number from Amphenol or Alcatel; the old Tuchel or Cannon numbers won't do. And nobody at Newark has any clue about them. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
In article ,
No Spam (ckh) wrote: I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. RF Parts, Inc.? Newark has a LOT of stuff in the Amphenol line, including all the Tuchel connectors. They can also get most of the old Cannon types from Alcatel. The problem is that you need the EXACT part number from Amphenol or Alcatel; the old Tuchel or Cannon numbers won't do. And nobody at Newark has any clue about them. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the
Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. Is this the same connector that's used on Viking Ranger for PTT? Screw-on, with two metal buttons inside the circle? Tn es 73, Mike K. Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me. |
I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the
Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. Is this the same connector that's used on Viking Ranger for PTT? Screw-on, with two metal buttons inside the circle? Tn es 73, Mike K. Oscar loves trash, but hates Spam! Delete him to reply to me. |
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:31:07 UTC, (N2EY) wrote:
How about, put a piece of tape over the mike jack. Or even more realisticly, give up finding a Heathkit 2 prong mike connector. HAW! That's a good one! I spent a year looking for that connector. Someone told me that it's a still in production Amphenol part, or Amphenol sold the rights to someone, no one knew the part number but that Newark carried it. A lot of folks converted the rigs to use something else! I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. ahhh, Timonium. It's been too many years.... The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. None of the rigs are "ready to use". I've been working on my SB-303 collection. The plan is to clean up and restore the radios and eventually sell them off, keeping one SB-102/SB-303 combination, the 104A, and the CX7A. oh mama mia! Seriously, though, that series is a good candidate for conversion to CW-only, as you suggest. Well, I wouldn't actually "modify" the radios. I'm a restorer, although I'm not a purest. One of my SB-200s has the Harbach soft key mod in it and I'm getting ready to add the mod to the other. NICE! My rules a 1) keep it looking factory stock, 2) if I modify it, do it out of sight and reversable. 3) no cutting sheetmetal but an added bracket or board is acceptable. 4) tack solder electrical mods. I'll replace components with close-enough and modern. I put a radial lead cap in place of an axial in an SB-303. The new cap is about half the size and has more capacity. The big point is "nothing irreversible". I always operate with it off! Old trick, makes CW much more fun. AF gain way up, RF gain way down, RF gain used as volume control. Try it - you may like it. With AGC on, anyhting in the passband makes the gain go up and down. And since a CW signal is all ups and downs, having the AGC on can make QRM worse! Ever use a Drake 2B on slow AGC? It takes a LONG time for the gain to come back. Of course on fast, it's pumping the noise. I drooled over the 2-B 30+ years ago but never had one. I know what you mean about pumping AGC. W2LYH, master homebrewer and radio operator, had a lot to do with my design philosophies. Sadly, he passed away in 2000. I wonder what happened to his rig... After all these years using homebrew rigs whose tunable oscillators are built around variables from ARC-5 transmitters and BC-221s, I'm spoiled rotten. 6 kHz per turn of the big, skirted solid Bakelite tuning knob. Silky smooth when you have a good one. Almost not fit for polite company. I might have one of those in my basement. Big air cap, like a transmitter tuning capacitor but with a worm drive? Not extremely large but very nice. Solid. They show up on eBay once in a while. Fair Radio used to have them for $4.... Unless your junkbox has a pair of thsoe Heath CW filters, the Inrad may be cheaper! The Heath filters are only 4 pole, with 5:1 shape factor. I have lots of Heathkit filters. Most are in radios. I have one SB-303 with dual cascaded 2.1 filters in it. There is an audible difference in how fast signals vanish as you tune past them. Never thought to try that with CW filters. I got some 500 Hz wide, 1.4 MHz filters at Gaithersburg back about 1988. Built a rig around them. I only bought four, and the guy had a crate full. Still kicking myself. Has to be in the LMO. Maybe they use the sideband-offset thingie. I found one write up for the HW-101. That has a exposed VFO. The SB LMO is hard to remove from the radio and is built in layers. Also, Heath did not publish the internal details. That's because Heath didn't make the LMOs. Heath simply wrote up a detailed spec of what the LMO had to do (physical size, power requirements, output, dial linearity, etc.) and then subcontracted the LMOs out to the lowest bidder. They were a component to Heath, like the filters or the power transformers. You can put an SB series LMO in an HW-101. I did it, and it works great. Made up a disc dial from plexiglas, and old knob, and a CAD program. Only trick is that you have to remember which 100 kHz segment you're in... Looked in a couple radios. Seems that the SB-10x and the SB-30x had different LMO's. The SB-30x LMO had a RTTY board on it. FSK Here's another trick for the scrounger: Get both a Tempo One and an HW-100 or 101. Remove the often-balky Heath VFO and install the VFO from the Tempo. That Tempo (actually Yaesu) VFO is about the best thing in the rig, and it tunes the right range (5-5.5 MHz). And it is all set up for RIT! It might tune in the wrong direction. .... Or is that just the electrical direction? Electrical. The Heath VFO tunes backwards. You can always make up an overlay for the Tempo dial disc. Classic Exchange is this weekend. I missed it. Work. The Type 7 is only about 12 years old. Maybe I'll have to drag the Type 6 out of storage... That's a conundrum. If you build a new design tube radio, why is that not a classic? Why is my 1970ish solid state, digital readout CX7A or SB-104A more a classic? Good question! you might be interested in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amateur-repairs About 1,000 of us hang out there and discuss fixing radios. cool 73 de Jim, N2EY |
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:31:07 UTC, (N2EY) wrote:
How about, put a piece of tape over the mike jack. Or even more realisticly, give up finding a Heathkit 2 prong mike connector. HAW! That's a good one! I spent a year looking for that connector. Someone told me that it's a still in production Amphenol part, or Amphenol sold the rights to someone, no one knew the part number but that Newark carried it. A lot of folks converted the rigs to use something else! I couldn't figure out what part it was so I asked a vendor at the Timonium Maryland Hamfest and they had it. It's pricey so I only got two. Dumb move on my part since I have 5 rigs that need it, an SB-104A, SB-401, two SB-102's, and an SB-101. ahhh, Timonium. It's been too many years.... The connector/coax vendor goes to all the mid-Atlantic Hamfests and is based in Rockville, MD. None of the rigs are "ready to use". I've been working on my SB-303 collection. The plan is to clean up and restore the radios and eventually sell them off, keeping one SB-102/SB-303 combination, the 104A, and the CX7A. oh mama mia! Seriously, though, that series is a good candidate for conversion to CW-only, as you suggest. Well, I wouldn't actually "modify" the radios. I'm a restorer, although I'm not a purest. One of my SB-200s has the Harbach soft key mod in it and I'm getting ready to add the mod to the other. NICE! My rules a 1) keep it looking factory stock, 2) if I modify it, do it out of sight and reversable. 3) no cutting sheetmetal but an added bracket or board is acceptable. 4) tack solder electrical mods. I'll replace components with close-enough and modern. I put a radial lead cap in place of an axial in an SB-303. The new cap is about half the size and has more capacity. The big point is "nothing irreversible". I always operate with it off! Old trick, makes CW much more fun. AF gain way up, RF gain way down, RF gain used as volume control. Try it - you may like it. With AGC on, anyhting in the passband makes the gain go up and down. And since a CW signal is all ups and downs, having the AGC on can make QRM worse! Ever use a Drake 2B on slow AGC? It takes a LONG time for the gain to come back. Of course on fast, it's pumping the noise. I drooled over the 2-B 30+ years ago but never had one. I know what you mean about pumping AGC. W2LYH, master homebrewer and radio operator, had a lot to do with my design philosophies. Sadly, he passed away in 2000. I wonder what happened to his rig... After all these years using homebrew rigs whose tunable oscillators are built around variables from ARC-5 transmitters and BC-221s, I'm spoiled rotten. 6 kHz per turn of the big, skirted solid Bakelite tuning knob. Silky smooth when you have a good one. Almost not fit for polite company. I might have one of those in my basement. Big air cap, like a transmitter tuning capacitor but with a worm drive? Not extremely large but very nice. Solid. They show up on eBay once in a while. Fair Radio used to have them for $4.... Unless your junkbox has a pair of thsoe Heath CW filters, the Inrad may be cheaper! The Heath filters are only 4 pole, with 5:1 shape factor. I have lots of Heathkit filters. Most are in radios. I have one SB-303 with dual cascaded 2.1 filters in it. There is an audible difference in how fast signals vanish as you tune past them. Never thought to try that with CW filters. I got some 500 Hz wide, 1.4 MHz filters at Gaithersburg back about 1988. Built a rig around them. I only bought four, and the guy had a crate full. Still kicking myself. Has to be in the LMO. Maybe they use the sideband-offset thingie. I found one write up for the HW-101. That has a exposed VFO. The SB LMO is hard to remove from the radio and is built in layers. Also, Heath did not publish the internal details. That's because Heath didn't make the LMOs. Heath simply wrote up a detailed spec of what the LMO had to do (physical size, power requirements, output, dial linearity, etc.) and then subcontracted the LMOs out to the lowest bidder. They were a component to Heath, like the filters or the power transformers. You can put an SB series LMO in an HW-101. I did it, and it works great. Made up a disc dial from plexiglas, and old knob, and a CAD program. Only trick is that you have to remember which 100 kHz segment you're in... Looked in a couple radios. Seems that the SB-10x and the SB-30x had different LMO's. The SB-30x LMO had a RTTY board on it. FSK Here's another trick for the scrounger: Get both a Tempo One and an HW-100 or 101. Remove the often-balky Heath VFO and install the VFO from the Tempo. That Tempo (actually Yaesu) VFO is about the best thing in the rig, and it tunes the right range (5-5.5 MHz). And it is all set up for RIT! It might tune in the wrong direction. .... Or is that just the electrical direction? Electrical. The Heath VFO tunes backwards. You can always make up an overlay for the Tempo dial disc. Classic Exchange is this weekend. I missed it. Work. The Type 7 is only about 12 years old. Maybe I'll have to drag the Type 6 out of storage... That's a conundrum. If you build a new design tube radio, why is that not a classic? Why is my 1970ish solid state, digital readout CX7A or SB-104A more a classic? Good question! you might be interested in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amateur-repairs About 1,000 of us hang out there and discuss fixing radios. cool 73 de Jim, N2EY |
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