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Ron wrote:
Re The Transfers well in my searches I came across this http://www.lazertran.com/ If you read the Ink jet one it appears that you can print a design on this paper which become waterproof on drying and can then be cut out soaked and wet slide transfered on to any surface including paint or metal!! so you could I assume take a close up digi photo of any logo or decal, clean it up and print it ready for use, nice little niche market hi!!! thanks from Ron... If the decals from RockSea aren't complete enough, drop Mike a line and I'm sure he'll be happy to add any missing words. He posted here some while back before jumping into Halli decals looking for all the various words, etc used on the sets. If you want to DIY your own decals thats easy enough. A font that is VERY close to the Hallicrafters font is named CHANL and you should be able to find it on the web. Waterslide decals via your own printer are great but inkjets are at the bottom of the heap for producing a decal that works on a dark background because of the inherent transparency in the ink. Laser Jet is better, ALPS dry transfer is perfect and your local copy store is great with their $30k machines if you bring along the decal paper stock...about $1 per sheet. -Bill M |
"Ron" wrote in message ... Hi Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx. I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's about half of the range from the tuning slug. If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a little less inductance. Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q. You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better, and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends. It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from about 40 to 45 Mc. Frank Dresser |
"Ron" wrote in message ... Hi Yes I had problems with both the setting of the dial and the tracking on Band 4 I think you have to accept a little variance but I'm very pleased with its performance and have been using it on 40mtrs CW alongside my Home Brew QRP CW Tx. I got my S-40A in perfect band 4 alignment at 2 points (17 and 34 Mc), but it wasn't easy. I had to remove the band 4 oscillator coil and spread the turns. Actually, I ended up rewinding the coil because I messed up the original. I overworked the coil because I didn't realize the importance of lead dress on this radio, even at 17 Mc. There's a longish wire coming from the bandswitch which should be routed under the capacitor shelf on the coil form. Routing it over the top of the form cost me about 250 Kc. That's about half of the range from the tuning slug. If you don't get enough range with the ferrite slug, the radio books say you can try a brass slug. I didn't have a brass slug, and I don't have the brass rod to make one. In one of my experiments, I coiled some 16 gauge copper wire around the shank of a phillips head screwdriver, and threaded the coil into the form. If you've ever worked with Heli-Coil thread inserts, you can picture what I did. The copper coil worked fine, but I got the radio aligned with the ferrite slug, once I rewound the coil for a little less inductance. Also, good clean connections at the bandswitch and the solder joints are important. Band 4 is a high C low L circuit, and should generate a fair amount of current in the LC tank assuming a reasonable Q. You can clean the bandswitch better if you remove the two screws which hold the witch detent in place. You can then rock the switch past the postition the contacts stop for band 4. This will work any contact cleaner in better, and work out the crud which normally builds up where the switch dead ends. It's strange this radio goes into the low VHF band. I think Hallicrafters designed it with the experimental Apex radio band in mind, which ran from about 40 to 45 Mc. Frank Dresser |
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Knobtwiddler |
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Comes with Windows XP Pro Knobtwiddler |
OOPS “Agency FB” is the EXACT match to the hallicrafters font.
NOT Agency SB knobtwiddler Quote:
NOT Agency SB knobtwiddler |
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