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#1
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"Leland C. Scott" wrote:
If somebody says their amp is "clean" well the only sure way to know is to test it with a spectrum analyzer. If you look at reviews for Ham rigs, and power amplifiers in particular, you will see spectrum analyzer screen shots so the buyers can see for themselves just how clean the output happens to be. And I haven't seen a spectrum analyzer screen shot for a 11m solid state amplifier yet. If you know of any it would be interesting to see them. While I've never used a spectrum analyzer on it, my tube type Collins 30L-1 amp seems to be very clean. It's the only amp I've had that doesn't interfere with broadcast TV on channel five. So I agree with you on the tube amp summary. |
#2
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![]() Leland wrote: (Twist the amp doesn't have to be class "C" to cause problems. Even a class "B" linear amp is not completely clean. In particular solid state amps are a problem because many are push-pull designs with no filtering on the output.) _ I take your word for it. I mentioned the class only because of the myriad of posts condemning the class C amps. What is push-pull design? _ (A push-pull design has low levels of even harmonic output since the even order signals cancel out in the output transformer. And that is only for "well matched" power transistors.) _ I guess that sort of answers my previous question.....but is something that is not well matched better than a push-pull design, or am I thoroughly lost here? _ ( The problem with the push-pull design is the odd order harmonics are not attenuated at all! If you care to look at Ham rigs that use wide band solid state push-pull amplifier output for HF operation you will see band pass filters on the output.) _ Ahhhh,,,,that explains it. _ ( In fact these filters are switched in and out depending on the band in use. That's how the manufactures keep the output clean enough to meet FCC specifications. Tube amplifiers are another story. These amplifiers can be relativity clean IF the output is designed correctly. The critical section is the output matching circuit. This circuit performs two important functions; load matching and harmonic filtering. Some of the posters on this board in the past don't seem to grasp these two ideas well. They seem to think that if the amp loads up OK then all is well - not true. If you go through the math you will discover that there is no unique solution for the value of the matching section component values. So how do the designers pick the values they do? They pick an operation "Q" for the matching section, that forces a particular value for the components. The significance of the "Q" value is it is a measure of how frequency selective the matching section becomes. The higher the "Q" the sharper the response becomes, thus the less harmonic energy is coupled to the output. Pick a "Q" too low and you have significant harmonic output from the amplifier. Pick a value too high makes the amplifier a pain to use, in other words the amplifier has to be retuned for small shifts in operating frequency. From either experience, or through detailed and complex calculations, acceptable values for "Q" have been determined that would yield a tube amplifier matching circuit that is likely to have acceptably low levels of harmonic output content. ) _ Hell, someone should have solicited your opinion long ago on this matter,,,so here goes.....what type low power tube amp (say 100 to 250 watts), if any, would you recommend for 10 meter? _ (If somebody says their amp is "clean" well the only sure way to know is to test it with a spectrum analyzer.) _ Yea,,,,guess so. When I first used an amp, I asked my neighbors if they heard so much as an errant erratic noise anywhere, to let me know. Years ago I had a neighbor tell me she could hear me on a cordless phone or pc speakers (can't remember which) and she declined any action on by behalf to rectify the situation. I think she enjoyed listening. Nevertheless, I made some changes because I thought that if she could hear me, them others could, too. A tower and new antenna changed everything. - ( If you look at reviews for Ham rigs, and power amplifiers in particular, you will see spectrum analyzer screen shots so the buyers can see for themselves just how clean the output happens to be. And I haven't seen a spectrum analyzer screen shot for a 11m solid state amplifier yet. If you know of any it would be interesting to see them. ) - I don't. There is no question some of those high drive competition amps are dirty as hell. While I would never use one for dx, I admit a fondness for a shoot-out. -- Leland C. Scott KC8LDO Wireless Network Mobile computing on the go |
#3
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![]() "Dave Hall" wrote in message ... On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 00:33:28 -0400, "Leland C. Scott" wrote: "Glenn S." wrote in message .. . Which omnidirectional base antenna will put out the least TV and telephone interference in the neighborhood? It doesn't depend on the antenna almost at all. The main cause of interference is from three sources. One a dirty transmitter, the second is from receiver front end over load, and the third is from RF getting in to the electronics directly. That's not entirely true. The antenna DOES have a part to play in the whole mess. Some of the "stick"-type antennas, such as the A-99, have poor decoupling and this allows for significant coaxial shield radiation. Some of these antennas also concentrate a good portion of their near field radiation in places where it would exacerbate front end overload or couple R.F. into house wiring. An otherwise clean transmitter coupled to an antenna with the above characteristics can cross the line between no RFI and significant RFI. In some cases, this can be mitigated somewhat by moving the antenna (usually raising it) to another area, where it's radiation will not couple as much R.F. into neighboring premises. A better solution would be to run an antenna with ground plane radials, such as a Sigma 5/8 wave or similar. Dave "Sandbagger" http://home.ptd.net/~n3cvj That would be true of course for his own situation, the classic RF in the shack problem, but he specifcaly asked about interference to the local neighborhood if you re-read his post. In that case I doubt the antenna type will have any significant impact. -- Leland C. Scott KC8LDO Wireless Network Mobile computing on the go brought to you by Micro$oft |
#4
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That would be true of course for his own situation, the classic RF in the
shack problem, but he specifcaly asked about interference to the local neighborhood if you re-read his post. In that case I doubt the antenna type will have any significant impact. Rf on the feedline will be radiated through the whole path, and probably much lower and closer to the neighbor. RF on the feedline is never a good thing. -- KC6ETE Dave's Engineering Page, www.dvanhorn.org Microcontroller Consultant, specializing in Atmel AVR |
#5
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On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 23:01:30 -0400, "Leland C. Scott"
wrote: "Dave Hall" wrote in message .. . On Mon, 20 Sep 2004 00:33:28 -0400, "Leland C. Scott" wrote: "Glenn S." wrote in message .. . Which omnidirectional base antenna will put out the least TV and telephone interference in the neighborhood? It doesn't depend on the antenna almost at all. The main cause of interference is from three sources. One a dirty transmitter, the second is from receiver front end over load, and the third is from RF getting in to the electronics directly. That's not entirely true. The antenna DOES have a part to play in the whole mess. Some of the "stick"-type antennas, such as the A-99, have poor decoupling and this allows for significant coaxial shield radiation. Some of these antennas also concentrate a good portion of their near field radiation in places where it would exacerbate front end overload or couple R.F. into house wiring. An otherwise clean transmitter coupled to an antenna with the above characteristics can cross the line between no RFI and significant RFI. In some cases, this can be mitigated somewhat by moving the antenna (usually raising it) to another area, where it's radiation will not couple as much R.F. into neighboring premises. A better solution would be to run an antenna with ground plane radials, such as a Sigma 5/8 wave or similar. That would be true of course for his own situation, the classic RF in the shack problem, but he specifcaly asked about interference to the local neighborhood if you re-read his post. In that case I doubt the antenna type will have any significant impact. If you live in a fairly densely populated area (1/4 acre lots) the near field will affect the neighbors as much as your own shack. I've known people who have switched from an A-99 to a 5/8th wave ground plane and have solved RFI problems. Nothing else changed, just the antenna. Antennas do not "create" harmonics or other spurious signals. But some may be more "friendly" to radiating a second or third harmonic. Their near field radiation pattern and coaxial decoupling contribute to the near field strength of a signal. Due to the characteristics of some of the most infamous antennas, they may radiate the same amount of R.F. into nearby structures while running 4 watts, as another type of antenna may do with 100 watts or more. This just illustrates that there are many facets of a radio station that need to be looked at when troubleshooting RFI. Everyone is aware of "dirty" transmitters, and most people are aware that consumer electronics are not particularly well designed with RF immunity in mind. But once you've proven that the transmitter is "clean", and you still have an RFI problem, you have to consider other options. Your mission is to minimize the amount of RF which gets into neighboring homes. If raising or moving the antenna to a place where it couples less RF into a home may just do the trick. Changing the antenna to a better design may accomplish the same thing. Good RF grounding may also minimize RFI. There is no "one size fits all" solution. Dave "Sandbagger" http://home.ptd.net/~n3cvj |
#6
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Antennas do not "create" harmonics or other spurious signals. But some
may be more "friendly" to radiating a second or third harmonic. Their near field radiation pattern and coaxial decoupling contribute to the near field strength of a signal. Due to the characteristics of some of the most infamous antennas, they may radiate the same amount of R.F. into nearby structures while running 4 watts, as another type of antenna may do with 100 watts or more. Bingo. First, don't make noise. (clean rig) Second, don't radiate noise. (resonant antenna) Third, use an antenna pattern and feedline decoupling, so that the radiated energy is up and away from the vulnerable system. Distance, because of the inverse square law, is your friend. Double the distance between the radiator and the target, and the signal drops to 1/4 of what it was. If raising or moving the antenna to a place where it couples less RF into a home may just do the trick. Changing the antenna to a better design may accomplish the same thing. Good RF grounding may also minimize RFI. There is no "one size fits all" solution. Another less often appreciated point, fixing any one thing may make an improvement, but not solve the problem. Then the perception is that the fix "didn't help" or "was worthless". Old engineering maxim, if you can't measure it, you can't improve it, certainly applies. -- KC6ETE Dave's Engineering Page, www.dvanhorn.org Microcontroller Consultant, specializing in Atmel AVR |
#7
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Which omnidirectional base antenna will put out the least TV
and telephone interference in the neighborhood? A resonant one, properly decoupled from the feedline. Someone with an antenna analyzer can check this for you, you're not just looking for low SWR, you're looking for little or no reactive component to the impedance in that band. As an extreme bad example, I saw a radio shack salesman explain to a customer how he could use their discone antenna (the one without the top element!) for CB. That antenna is dramatically too small to be resonant on 11m, it would have just been an efficient radiator for any VHF-UHF band harmonics and noise that the rig might produce. -- KC6ETE Dave's Engineering Page, www.dvanhorn.org Microcontroller Consultant, specializing in Atmel AVR |
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