Vinnie S recommended the Dipole in the link below. The only thing is I
dont know if it can it be used outdoor. Its insulated so I dont see
why it cant be.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Indoor-Dipole-CB...QQcmdZViewItem

Im thinking that I would install it on my roof toward the back of the
house in the "T" configuration as you recommend tying the ends down to
the sides of the house like in the eaves under the garage. Then Im
thinking to run the coax back on either side of the Dipole, down the
corner of the house where it will go into the house. It will be out of
the sight of the home owners association people.

On 17 Nov 2005 04:59:07 -0800, wrote:

Vinnie S recommended the Dipole in the link below. The only thing is I
dont know if it can it be used outdoor. Its insulated so I dont see
why it cant be.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Indoor-Dipole-CB...QQcmdZViewItem

Im thinking that I would install it on my roof toward the back of the
house in the "T" configuration as you recommend tying the ends down to
the sides of the house like in the eaves under the garage. Then Im
thinking to run the coax back on either side of the Dipole, down the
corner of the house where it will go into the house. It will be out of
the sight of the home owners association people.


You can use it outdoors, easily. You must seal the coax feed so water and ice
don't get in at the feed point. It is perfectly ok if either leg of the dipole
gets wet.

Also, like Chad said, make a balun, which is a coiling your coax right before
the feed point. The coax should be coiled 10 turns in a 6 inch radius. And use
100% sheilded coax. I use Davis Bury-flex. LMR-400 is good, but very stiff.
Belden 9913 is good, but not as good outdoors as the Bury-Flex.

If you was to save some money, just use the coax itself as the dipole. Once you
separate the center wire from the braid, that is the star of you dipole. That
needs to be about 102-104 inches long. The center wire is easy, but separating
the braid is a pain in the ass. So cut about 1 inched of braid, and solder a
wire to the braid, like 14 gauge from Home Depot. Remember, the length should be
cut long, and then cut shorter to match up and get low SWR. Is alwasy easier to
cut shorter, and to make longer.

Vinnie S.

Vinnie S. wrote:

If you was to save some money, just use the coax itself as the dipole. Once you
separate the center wire from the braid, that is the star of you dipole. That
needs to be about 102-104 inches long. The center wire is easy, but separating
the braid is a pain in the ass. So cut about 1 inched of braid, and solder a
wire to the braid, like 14 gauge from Home Depot. Remember, the length should be
cut long, and then cut shorter to match up and get low SWR. Is alwasy easier to
cut shorter, and to make longer.

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm

Scott in Baltimore wrote:
Vinnie S. wrote:

If you was to save some money, just use the coax itself as the dipole.
Once you
separate the center wire from the braid, that is the star of you
dipole. That
needs to be about 102-104 inches long. The center wire is easy, but
separating
the braid is a pain in the ass. So cut about 1 inched of braid, and
solder a
wire to the braid, like 14 gauge from Home Depot. Remember, the length
should be
cut long, and then cut shorter to match up and get low SWR. Is alwasy
easier to
cut shorter, and to make longer.

I can't stress how important impedence matching is to your antenna system.
I'd rather have a 1.5:1 resonant SWR then 1:1 unresonant SWR. Think about
singing in the shower. There is a pitch that sings back to you with very
little power. That is what happens in a resonant antenna. Recieved signals
also get this natural amplification. Frequency is unimportant to this theory.

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm
http://www.hamuniverse.com/balun.html
http://www.njqrp.org/balun/

"Scott in Baltimore" wrote in message
...
Scott in Baltimore wrote:
Vinnie S. wrote:

If you was to save some money, just use the coax itself as the dipole.
Once you
separate the center wire from the braid, that is the star of you dipole.
That
needs to be about 102-104 inches long. The center wire is easy, but
separating
the braid is a pain in the ass. So cut about 1 inched of braid, and
solder a
wire to the braid, like 14 gauge from Home Depot. Remember, the length
should be
cut long, and then cut shorter to match up and get low SWR. Is alwasy
easier to
cut shorter, and to make longer.

I can't stress how important impedence matching is to your antenna system.
I'd rather have a 1.5:1 resonant SWR then 1:1 unresonant SWR. Think about
singing in the shower. There is a pitch that sings back to you with very
little power. That is what happens in a resonant antenna. Recieved signals
also get this natural amplification. Frequency is unimportant to this
theory.

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm
http://www.hamuniverse.com/balun.html
http://www.njqrp.org/balun/

Excellent links. I was looking for a winter time project, looks like I might
give this a try.

"Scott in Baltimore" wrote in message
. ..
Vinnie S. wrote:

If you was to save some money, just use the coax itself as the dipole.
Once you
separate the center wire from the braid, that is the star of you dipole.
That
needs to be about 102-104 inches long. The center wire is easy, but
separating
the braid is a pain in the ass. So cut about 1 inched of braid, and
solder a
wire to the braid, like 14 gauge from Home Depot. Remember, the length
should be
cut long, and then cut shorter to match up and get low SWR. Is alwasy
easier to
cut shorter, and to make longer.

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm

Linky no worky.

Chad

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm


Linky no worky.

Worked yesterday. Try again later.

http://www.qsl.net/iz7ath/web/02_bre.../pag01_eng.htm
Linky no worky.

Works now.

Yep it does, one looks close to the one i made a couple days ago.. Mine
is prettier

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...f/HPIM1678.jpg


Chad