Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great
suggestion, and I'll keep looking at the other suggestions.


"Joel" wrote in message
...
Wow, what good suggestions. I think I saw a pop-rivet like your
suggesting.
That would be the perfect answer if it's not to thick on the face side as
the two pieces of metal fit flush. I do have room on the backside for a
short pop rivet. Hmm, I wonder where I can find these guys. I never really
looked at the pop-rivet section of Home Deport or Lowes. I suppose it's
just me. But after I fix up these old radios and get them working like
new,
I hate to have stripped out screws. shrug

Joel - AG4QC


"Michael" wrote in message
. ca...
"Joel" wrote in message
...
I have a few nice rigs I come across at hamfests and they always have
missing screws because the threads are stripped. I was wondering if
anyone
had any success in filling the holes with something. I'm have had
limited

I use a pop-rivet type tool that installs a threaded insert into the
aluminum or sheet steel housing. I don't know the brand of insert that
I
use but there is a similar type shown here at
http://www.rivetsplus.com/manufactur.../dl_insert.asp

The HeliCoil works really great for stripped threaded inserts in block
aluminum or steel but don't seem to do much good at all when it is just
a
casing screw in a sheet metal box that is stripped. Often when I come
across one stripped hole I will drill them all out and replace the
entire
set. Hope this helps.

Michael Beaveridge
VE7YXX

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great

I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal
behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of
roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure
there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength.

I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest
as the time and usually epoxy is it.

sdb

--
| Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com |
| Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ |
It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral
busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his
cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our
own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval
of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 02:53:40 GMT, Joel wrote:
Looking at the web site, it looks like the smallest is 6/32 I was looking
for 8mm as that's what most of these radios are. I could use 6/32, but in
that case, I would just re-tap it to 6/32 and be done with it. But a great

I have had good results using epoxy to glue a nut to the sheet metal
behind the hole. Clean well the sheet metal and the nut, a bit of
roughening with file is usually good, and epoxy it on. Make sure
there is a nice fillet of epoxy around the nut for extra strength.

I've also soldered the nut on, but I'll do whichever seems easiest
as the time and usually epoxy is it.

sdb

--
| Sylvan Butler | Not speaking for Hewlett-Packard | sbutler-boi.hp.com |
| Watch out for my e-mail address. Thank UCE. change ^ to @ |
It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral
busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his
cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our
own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval
of their consciences. -- C. S. Lewis