I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

K5DH wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

Usually a drop of solvent will loosen them. If the coil
forms are plastic it might be a problem, but you can test the
solvent on the end of the form first.
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Mots of the time coils just don't come untuned, why do you need to turm
them.
Another Goldenscrewdriver tech.


"Scott Schrader" wrote in message
...
try alcohol first for solvent, it should not mangle coil forms. if that
doesn't work, a paintbrush with a little bit of acetone is the next step
for solvent.

Irv Finkleman wrote:

K5DH wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

Usually a drop of solvent will loosen them. If the coil
forms are plastic it might be a problem, but you can test the
solvent on the end of the form first.
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at
http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

-- If it's a "new economy," why do they want my obsolete old money?

Dean,

This is one reason we have problems attracting newcomers. The incessant
flames. The fact is once you mention "tubes", folks should realize that the
thing may indeed not be well tuned. I'm trying to think if it is the GE
Master II ... but it is a VHF rig and the cavities used to grow "crystals"
in 'em and detune 'em. One guy showed me a quick way to fix it (yes, you
can go in with a q-tip). He picked the radio up and banged it on the bench
about 3 or 4 times. Suddenly, it no longer took 4 uV to get a decent
signal. It was down to 0.25 uV. I did have to clean my shorts out the
first time I saw it, however

I was given an old SP-600 which had been under salt water for a brief period
of time (I got the radio in 1968). I ended up replacing most of the
components in the whole front end as it could barely receive local broadcast
stations. It worked fine after I did that, but it was a real mess. Easier
to buy a new receiver these days (prices are reasonable and if you figure my
time, I was probably making about twenty five cents per hour fixing that
slug!). Of course, that was back in the late 60s. Figure a grand buck and
a half an hour in today's wages It was a good learning experience,
however.

73 from Rochester, NY
Jim

"


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"BigBill" wrote in message
et...
^^^^^^

It appears you misspelled "Big A-hole"



Mots of the time coils just don't come untuned, why do you need to turm
them.
Another Goldenscrewdriver tech.

In , (K5DH)
wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

You didn't mention whether it's a hollow core (hex) or a slotted top. If it's a
hollow core, many of those older radios used long slugs. If that's the case, you
can usually break them loose without a problem by using a long hex wrench or
"diddle stick" to contact as much of the slug as possible. Just make sure you
have the correct size wrench (a tight fit). If it's a short or slotted slug, you
will probably need a solvent. As far as solvents go, alcohol doesn't usually
work, and acetone doesn't penetrate. Try a drop or two of toluene and let it
soak in for a while. It will be gummy, and might even be worse than breaking it
loose when it's dry, but it won't hurt the coil form. Just remember to measure
the slug before you try anything so you can replace it if it breaks.






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Frank Gilliland wrote:

In , (K5DH)
wrote:

I am restoring an old Kris 23+ tube-type CB radio.
As with most Japanese-made CB gear from that era,
the coil slugs are held in place with some sort of
glossy white paint-like sealer. How do I dissolve
that sealer without damaging the coil forms? I'm
unable to budge the slugs with a diddle stick, and
I don't want to risk fracturing a slug by trying
to force them.

73,
Dean K5DH

You didn't mention whether it's a hollow core (hex) or a slotted top. If it's a
hollow core, many of those older radios used long slugs. If that's the case, you
can usually break them loose without a problem by using a long hex wrench or
"diddle stick" to contact as much of the slug as possible. Just make sure you
have the correct size wrench (a tight fit). If it's a short or slotted slug, you
will probably need a solvent. As far as solvents go, alcohol doesn't usually
work, and acetone doesn't penetrate. Try a drop or two of toluene and let it
soak in for a while. It will be gummy, and might even be worse than breaking it
loose when it's dry, but it won't hurt the coil form. Just remember to measure
the slug before you try anything so you can replace it if it breaks.

-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

My experience has been that the "hex" hole slugs that stick are broken
and the only hope is the pick out the pieces and put in a new one.

Good luck
Bill K7NOM

K5DH wrote:

Yes, you're right. Coils usually don't just come untuned.
However, other components in the circuit will change value
with age, often necessitating an alignment. This is even
more true with tube-type gear, where the heat takes a big
toll on components over the years.

So, I'm "Another Goldenscrewdriver tech", am I?

I am a professional electronic technician with 23 years'
experience with a major aerospace company, and an Extra
Class ham with 26 years in the hobby (a REAL Extra, not
a modern era "gimme" Extra). I've been building, fixing,
and restoring gear for all of those years. Because I'm
restoring a vintage CB radio rather than a piece of ham
gear, you assume that I know nothing and am just dorking
around with it? What are your qualifications? Are you
justified in making such observations about others?

Thanks for all of your insightful "help".

73,
Dean K5DH

In article ,
says...

Mots of the time coils just don't come untuned, why do you need to turm
them.
Another Goldenscrewdriver tech.




Dean -- I don't think it was meant that way, but it was a good
observation. I've am a retired Journeyman Technician, spent 26
years in the Navy all in electronics, was a Tech for Sony for 15,
years, a ham since 58 and have been building, repairing and whatnot
electronicswise most of my life -- and I should have thought to mention
that they seldom change as well. I've been caught in the 'Golden
Screwdriver' situation myself and just laughed it off.

Irv VE6BP
--
--------------------------------------
Diagnosed Type II Diabetes March 5 2001
Beating it with diet and exercise!
297/215/210 (to be revised lower)
58"/43"(!)/44" (already lower too!)
--------------------------------------
Visit my HomePage at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv/
Visit my very special website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv4/
Visit my CFSRS/CFIOG ONLINE OLDTIMERS website at http://members.shaw.ca/finkirv5/
--------------------
Irv Finkleman,
Grampa/Ex-Navy/Old Fart/Ham Radio VE6BP
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Givem hell, Dean!



On the coils, I've found that heating the coil form (heat gun is best
but solder iron if done carefully ) will sometimes melt the wax on the
coil form allowing the slug to turn.

If not available, I have on occasion drilled a hole in the PC board
bottom of the coil; sometimes getting access for the tool through the
other end of the coil will make the difference.

If you do crack the coil, I assume you know its pretty much worthless
for reliability and proper tuning after that. Worse case, try to dig up
some used coils from other gear and just drill out the old core and
install a new one.

Good luck


Ed WB6SAT

"Ed G." wrote:

Givem hell, Dean!

On the coils, I've found that heating the coil form (heat gun is best
but solder iron if done carefully ) will sometimes melt the wax on the
coil form allowing the slug to turn.

If not available, I have on occasion drilled a hole in the PC board
bottom of the coil; sometimes getting access for the tool through the
other end of the coil will make the difference.

If you do crack the coil, I assume you know its pretty much worthless
for reliability and proper tuning after that. Worse case, try to dig up
some used coils from other gear and just drill out the old core and
install a new one.

Good luck

Ed WB6SAT

I have put an old Allen wrench into a stuck slug and heated it with a
large soldering iron, then carefully remove the slug by turning the
Allen wrench with a pair of pliers while the slug was warm enough to
melt the wax.

One other thing, some coils are sealed with "Printer's Ink", a water
based ink that chips easily. We used it on all the coils in the PRC-77
radios built by CE.

You have to be careful drilling holes in circuit boards. I have
worked on a lot of RF boards with traces run under coils that will be
destroyed with a drill bit.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida