Have you tried Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, etc.?

Have you tried looking for an internet Truckstop? Surely someone, somewhere
has such a beast?

Finally, it never hurts to _call_ these places. Some will just brush you
off, but some may be willing to tell you about what they have, and keep you
from crawling all over the US interstate system looking for the right part.

Let us know what you find -- I'd like to know where to get these things,
too.

----------------------------------
Tim Wescott, KG7LI

"Brian Kelly" wrote in message
m...
Keith Hosman wrote in
message . ..
On 10 Jan 2004 15:48:18 -0800, (Brian Kelly) wrote:

I have a borrowed example of a plug . . .

(A) Does anyone out there know where one can buy these?
(B) Or have a source for a similar alternative plug?
(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
lighter receptacles supply before they become toast? What are the
standards/limits? Versus having to punch #8 wire thru the firewall and
do it right?

TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV


Try a I know it will sound strange, but try a truckstop. Semi's have
all sorts of accessories that plug into cig lighter or accy. plugs, so
truckstops usually carry a good adapter and other items along that
line.

Not strange at all Keith. I borrowed the nice plug I described above
from an over-the-road trucker & ham buddy who picked it up at some
truck stop mobile electronics boutique. These guys really put their
lighter receptacles to work and they can't afford to mess around with
junk. But he drives 4,000 miles/week and at this point he has no idea
where he got it so I'm sort of stuck unless I go Interstate crawling.

Back to Google . . they gotta be out there.

Heh.


73 de Keith

Brian w3rv

Bob Miller wrote in message . ..
On 10 Jan 2004 15:48:18 -0800, (Brian Kelly) wrote:



(A) Does anyone out there know where one can buy these?
(B) Or have a source for a similar alternative plug?
(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
lighter receptacles supply before they become toast? What are the
standards/limits? Versus having to punch #8 wire thru the firewall and
do it right?

TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

There's no single standard for all vehicles.

Your vehicle owner's manual should tell you how many amps your
particular cigarette lighter circuit will safely provide, and an extra
robust plug may exceed the capapabilities of that circuit, or exceed
the specs on the fuses for that circuit. The fuse specs should be in
the owner's manual, too, or you should be able to track the fuses down
yourself.

Most firewalls have one or more unused holes -- it's just a matter of
finding the grommit, and pulling it out.

I checked my own car last week and the circuit is fused for 15 amps. I
was just wondering if 15 amps is some sort of "standard".

I've done #8 zip cord thru firewalls installations but that's not a
consideration in this instance. I want to be able to occasionally move
my equipment from vehicle to vehicle without having to run a power
cable all the way to the battery. It's apparently done all the time
with a ten amp plug. Back to square one . .



Bob
k5qwg

Brian w3rv

Bob Miller wrote in message . ..
On 10 Jan 2004 15:48:18 -0800, (Brian Kelly) wrote:



(A) Does anyone out there know where one can buy these?
(B) Or have a source for a similar alternative plug?
(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
lighter receptacles supply before they become toast? What are the
standards/limits? Versus having to punch #8 wire thru the firewall and
do it right?

TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

There's no single standard for all vehicles.

Your vehicle owner's manual should tell you how many amps your
particular cigarette lighter circuit will safely provide, and an extra
robust plug may exceed the capapabilities of that circuit, or exceed
the specs on the fuses for that circuit. The fuse specs should be in
the owner's manual, too, or you should be able to track the fuses down
yourself.

Most firewalls have one or more unused holes -- it's just a matter of
finding the grommit, and pulling it out.

I checked my own car last week and the circuit is fused for 15 amps. I
was just wondering if 15 amps is some sort of "standard".

I've done #8 zip cord thru firewalls installations but that's not a
consideration in this instance. I want to be able to occasionally move
my equipment from vehicle to vehicle without having to run a power
cable all the way to the battery. It's apparently done all the time
with a ten amp plug. Back to square one . .



Bob
k5qwg

Brian w3rv

Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

Ken

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

Ken

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:23:33 +1300, "Ken Taylor"
wrote:

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

The spring is part of a serial path -- tip spring fuse
wire.

----| ////// [[[[[[[[ -----------------


Insulating the spring would leave you with an open path, just like
cutting the wire.

Frankly I doubt the spring-weakening idea. Some lighter
adapters are just poorly made. I've had some fail to make decent
contact when brand new. I've often had to twist the adapter around
until it made good contact.

I also bought a 110V to 12V (lighter scket) adapter and had
the same problem as in the car. I originally got it to avoid battery
failure problems while uploading firmware to my GPS unit. It still
required a little twisting to make good contact. Same when I later
used it in my office to charge a cellphone.

I have no idea what exactly makes this kind of connector
unreliable, but I've never yet found one that didn't cut out
intermittently.

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:23:33 +1300, "Ken Taylor"
wrote:

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

The spring is part of a serial path -- tip spring fuse
wire.

----| ////// [[[[[[[[ -----------------


Insulating the spring would leave you with an open path, just like
cutting the wire.

Frankly I doubt the spring-weakening idea. Some lighter
adapters are just poorly made. I've had some fail to make decent
contact when brand new. I've often had to twist the adapter around
until it made good contact.

I also bought a 110V to 12V (lighter scket) adapter and had
the same problem as in the car. I originally got it to avoid battery
failure problems while uploading firmware to my GPS unit. It still
required a little twisting to make good contact. Same when I later
used it in my office to charge a cellphone.

I have no idea what exactly makes this kind of connector
unreliable, but I've never yet found one that didn't cut out
intermittently.

In article (Brian Kelly) writes:

I checked my own car last week and the circuit is fused for 15 amps. I
was just wondering if 15 amps is some sort of "standard".

I've done #8 zip cord thru firewalls installations but that's not a
consideration in this instance. I want to be able to occasionally move
my equipment from vehicle to vehicle without having to run a power
cable all the way to the battery. It's apparently done all the time
with a ten amp plug. Back to square one . .

VW seems to use a 20 amp fuse for the lighter -- at least in the Jetta.

The problem seems to be voltage drop -- perhaps they can handle 20
amps, but there is still voltage drop -- even 10 amps had a good deal
of voltage drop.


Alan
wa6azp