Keith Hosman wrote in message . ..
On 10 Jan 2004 15:48:18 -0800, (Brian Kelly) wrote:

I have a borrowed example of a plug . . .

(A) Does anyone out there know where one can buy these?
(B) Or have a source for a similar alternative plug?
(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
lighter receptacles supply before they become toast? What are the
standards/limits? Versus having to punch #8 wire thru the firewall and
do it right?

TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV


Try a I know it will sound strange, but try a truckstop. Semi's have
all sorts of accessories that plug into cig lighter or accy. plugs, so
truckstops usually carry a good adapter and other items along that
line.

Not strange at all Keith. I borrowed the nice plug I described above
from an over-the-road trucker & ham buddy who picked it up at some
truck stop mobile electronics boutique. These guys really put their
lighter receptacles to work and they can't afford to mess around with
junk. But he drives 4,000 miles/week and at this point he has no idea
where he got it so I'm sort of stuck unless I go Interstate crawling.

Back to Google . . they gotta be out there.

Heh.


73 de Keith

Brian w3rv

"Brian Kelly" wrote in message
om...
Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]

(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

Brian,
Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one you
describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
above average. I bought one and think it is...well I'll say ok. It says 10
amps if I recall & If you believe it. It looked better than anything else I
saw and I thought would be ok for moderate loads up to, oh, I don't know 6-8
amps is my guess.

Also note that the newest "power connectors" that look like cig-lighter
recepticles have a rating posted right there. I don't remember what my van
says. I think (but don't hold me to it) mine says 180 watts total for both
of them (One in rear too) -- about 12 amps.

The real cig lighter can't supply much and I have had one go south with a 25
W mobile. It was dropping quite a bit of voltage causing a low rumble on
the FM TX so that it confused the repeater CTSS decoder. Took a while to
figure out--it "reparied" itself interestingly enough with no intervention
from me. I since went to the battery and more powerful rig.

--
Steve N, K,9;d, c. i My email has no u's.

Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

Ken

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:23:33 +1300, "Ken Taylor"
wrote:

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

The spring is part of a serial path -- tip spring fuse
wire.

----| ////// [[[[[[[[ -----------------


Insulating the spring would leave you with an open path, just like
cutting the wire.

Frankly I doubt the spring-weakening idea. Some lighter
adapters are just poorly made. I've had some fail to make decent
contact when brand new. I've often had to twist the adapter around
until it made good contact.

I also bought a 110V to 12V (lighter scket) adapter and had
the same problem as in the car. I originally got it to avoid battery
failure problems while uploading firmware to my GPS unit. It still
required a little twisting to make good contact. Same when I later
used it in my office to charge a cellphone.

I have no idea what exactly makes this kind of connector
unreliable, but I've never yet found one that didn't cut out
intermittently.

On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:23:33 +1300, "Ken Taylor"
wrote:

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

The spring is part of a serial path -- tip spring fuse
wire.

----| ////// [[[[[[[[ -----------------


Insulating the spring would leave you with an open path, just like
cutting the wire.

Frankly I doubt the spring-weakening idea. Some lighter
adapters are just poorly made. I've had some fail to make decent
contact when brand new. I've often had to twist the adapter around
until it made good contact.

I also bought a 110V to 12V (lighter scket) adapter and had
the same problem as in the car. I originally got it to avoid battery
failure problems while uploading firmware to my GPS unit. It still
required a little twisting to make good contact. Same when I later
used it in my office to charge a cellphone.

I have no idea what exactly makes this kind of connector
unreliable, but I've never yet found one that didn't cut out
intermittently.

"Richard G Amirault" wrote in message
...
Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one
you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

I can't see why it should (the spring pass all the current), but even if it
does, can you not insulate either or both end of the spring so that it won't
conduct?

Ken

Steve Nosko wrote:

: "Brian Kelly" wrote in message
: om...
: Backgrounder: Where can one get a decent (i.e., robust)
: general-purpose automotive cigarette lighter plug/tap? [..snip..]
:
: (c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
: TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

: Brian,
: Did you see the one at Radio Shack which looks very much like the one you
: describe? The binding posts are not full size, but the construction is
: above average.
(snip)

I have one of the Radio Shack binding post plugs as well. It's in one of
my 'go kits' for emergency use.

Frankly, I think you'll also have to worry about the quality of the
cigarette lighter *plug* as well as the output capacity of the jack. As
you mentioned, the tip of these things is spring loaded. When you run a
LOT of amps thru it (the spring) it eventually looses its 'spring' and the
plug becomes unworkable. Remember all the current passes thru the spring
(almost like a fuse) no matter how heavy the actual connecting wire is.

Richard in Boston, MA, USA

On 10 Jan 2004 15:48:18 -0800, (Brian Kelly) wrote:



(A) Does anyone out there know where one can buy these?
(B) Or have a source for a similar alternative plug?
(c) Ignoring the fuse ratings how many amps can auotomotive cigarette
lighter receptacles supply before they become toast? What are the
standards/limits? Versus having to punch #8 wire thru the firewall and
do it right?

TNX a bunch, Brian W3RV

There's no single standard for all vehicles.

Your vehicle owner's manual should tell you how many amps your
particular cigarette lighter circuit will safely provide, and an extra
robust plug may exceed the capapabilities of that circuit, or exceed
the specs on the fuses for that circuit. The fuse specs should be in
the owner's manual, too, or you should be able to track the fuses down
yourself.

Most firewalls have one or more unused holes -- it's just a matter of
finding the grommit, and pulling it out.

Bob
k5qwg

Radio Shack sells an adapter that would work. It's rated at 10 amps and comes
with a pos and neg binding post, like that on a power supply. With a decent car
ACCESSORY port (not cigarette lighter port), you can run a 50 watt FM radio. I
have been using on in my work car with no problems. The radio indicated over
14VDC when it is turned on and plugged into the aftermarket accessory port.

At the aft end there two
nice big red/black screw-down terminal posts of the usual design which
can accomodate up to #10 wire, maybe even #8. Nicely finished, quality
piece

That sounds like the one I picked up from Radio Shack. Part number 270-1521.
Here's a link:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=270-1521

Hope that helps!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73! de Andy KC2SSB
Beachwood, NJ USA! Grid FM29vw
http://vhfradiobuff.tripod.com