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Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 08/18/05 04:47 pm ehsjr tossed the following ingredients into the ever-growing pot of cybersoup: But are you saying that the "Automatic - Deep Cycle" setting on an "ordinary" battery charger (it's one I bought originally for the car batteries, but the "Deep Cycle" setting seemed like a bonus) is not a reliable way of keeping the batery in good shape? Aside from attempting to rescue his battery, the OP has got to fix or replace that charger ^^^^ We already have strong evidence that the charger you used cooked the electrolyte. I made no reference to the "universe" of ordinary chargers - I was thinking specifically of yours. But you raise a good point, expanding the question - and others have answered. Well, we don't know how much the charger contributed to the problem, because the electrolyte level wasn't checked for more than a year because I hadn't realized that it's not a "maintenance-free" battery. Whatever charger you use, you need to verify that it is doing the job properly. Consider building an add-on monitoring/control circuit. Perhaps a comparator with a sonalert to notify you that something is wrong with automatic charger shut-off when the voltage exceeds some level. I built a comparator into an ordinary 10 amp charger to turn it on and off automatically. A 339 works fine - 4 comparators in one chip, so you can have a voltage too low output turn the thing on, and a voltage too high turn it off. Still have two comparators left over to use as you like. Add a couple more 339 chips and you could add a 10 step led voltage monitor, for example. While looking for a hydrometer today, I noticed "Vector" brand "smart" chargers (10/6/2A and 6/4/2A) that claimed to have 3-stage charging circuitry and to be suitable for car batteries, deep-cycle batteries, and gel-cell batteries. Are these likely to be any good? The battery was still warm, and each cell was still bubbling slightly after the thing had been disconnected from the charger for about 3 hours. The SG of each cell was pretty much the same at approx. 1.1175, and the voltage across the whole battery was 12.4. When I put it back on charge, the voltage rose to 13.3. What do you think? Perce I can't comment on the chargers you mentioned - I don't know anything about them. But I wouldn't trust any charger until I have verified that it 1) does charge the battery, and 2) does not overcharge the battery. And even that has the possibility of error. A charger that works fine at 50 F ambient may not work right at 80 F. So my testing, at 50 F, may not reveal a flaw that occurs at 80 F. (Or vice versa.) The terminal voltage - the voltage across the battery at which the charge should terminate - varies with temperature. Concerning your battery's SG: either your SG tester or the battery is bad. The SG reading is too low. To verify, check the specs on your battery with the manufacturer to see what they say the SG should be. I believe the battery is bad, as there is corroborating evidence from other facts besides the SG reading Regarding my comment that there is strong evidence that your charger is bad: the electrolyte level didn't go down due to leakage. The alternative is that it went down due to evaporation, which is a result of heat, which in turn can be caused by overcharging. As you point out, we don't know how much of the electrolyte loss was caused by the charger - but the only possibility that can be linked to what you have posted thus far is overcharging. Perhaps there are other factors you haven't mentioned? Ed |
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