Greetings,

Just a short query about CW and keys/keyers which I can't seem to figure
out from my web searches these last few days. I'm about to take my
Basic Exam (Canada) and will eventually try my hand at getting Morse
Code Qualification at 5 WPM. I expect I'll want to learn Morse even if
Industry Canada and the ITU decide to relax this restriction. I've
wanted to do this since I was a kid, so I decided to go for it. I knew
all that basic electronics and high-school physics would come in handy
one day.

Since I'm a little unclear on the nomenclature (and trying to
re-remember all those acronyms) and how amateur radio and CW has changed
since I was a kid, I'm a little fuzzy on the best way to approach
physically keying Morse Code.

Specifically, there are a lot more choices of how to go about actually
making those dits and dahs now, and there seems to be as many opinions
on the "best" way to do things.

As a raw beginner who has no intentions of being a speed demon, is a
plain ol' straight key good enough? Does it make any sense to learn on
a single or "iambic" paddle even for 5-10 WPM use?

Based on my research, it appears that to actually send/recv CW, one must
have (or it helps to have?) a transceiver that has a CW "mode." Is my
assumption correct? I'm not entirely clear on why CW would be a mode
(i.e., it is often listed in specs along with SSB), other than a pretty
good understanding for how signals can be modulated.

Finally, if I do get a starter transceiver, I either have to have one
with a built-in keyer, or supply a keyer myself. True?

I understand the limitations my Basic qualifications would have. I'm
just thinking into the future, and planning on getting a transceiver
that goes down into the 6 (and possible 2) metre bands. As I gain
experience and qualification, I can introduce myself to the HF bands.

Thanks for listening.
--
clvrmnky

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"clvrmnky" wrote in message
news
Greetings,

Just a short query about CW and keys/keyers which I can't seem to figure
out from my web searches these last few days. I'm about to take my Basic
Exam (Canada) and will eventually try my hand at getting Morse Code
Qualification at 5 WPM. I expect I'll want to learn Morse even if
Industry Canada and the ITU decide to relax this restriction. I've wanted
to do this since I was a kid, so I decided to go for it. I knew all that
basic electronics and high-school physics would come in handy one day.

Commendable

Since I'm a little unclear on the nomenclature (and trying to re-remember
all those acronyms) and how amateur radio and CW has changed since I was a
kid, I'm a little fuzzy on the best way to approach physically keying
Morse Code.

Specifically, there are a lot more choices of how to go about actually
making those dits and dahs now, and there seems to be as many opinions on
the "best" way to do things.

As a raw beginner who has no intentions of being a speed demon, is a plain
ol' straight key good enough? Does it make any sense to learn on a single
or "iambic" paddle even for 5-10 WPM use?

At the lower speeds -- a straight key is good enough -- but tiring after
extended QSO's.
A single or iambic paddle is worth while learning as you increase speed --
it will be easier to use than a straight key.
And the electronic keyers allow you to send more precise proper code than
many Hand keyers.

A single paddle is easy to learn -- much like a straight key. Iambic takes
some learnin but most will recommend it.



Based on my research, it appears that to actually send/recv CW, one must
have (or it helps to have?) a transceiver that has a CW "mode." Is my
assumption correct? I'm not entirely clear on why CW would be a mode
(i.e., it is often listed in specs along with SSB), other than a pretty
good understanding for how signals can be modulated.

Most modern rigs have the CW "mode". Older ones have a BFO which allows you
to hear an audible beat tone.

It is common to specify the method of transmission as a "mode". There is a
place on QSL cards for "mode" CW, SSB, FM etc

Finally, if I do get a starter transceiver, I either have to have one with
a built-in keyer, or supply a keyer myself. True?

True. Many new rigs have the keyer built in. Otherwise there are several
outboard keyers available -- older ones on e-bay -- look for a Curtis Keyer.
For a new one look at the K1EL Keyers at URL:
http://k1el.tripod.com/

I understand the limitations my Basic qualifications would have. I'm just
thinking into the future, and planning on getting a transceiver that goes
down into the 6 (and possible 2) metre bands. As I gain experience and
qualification, I can introduce myself to the HF bands.


Here are several good Morse code pages.
http://ac6v.com/morseaids.htm

http://ac6v.com/morsepages.htm

Thanks for listening.
--
clvrmnky

Heat up and unmunge email to reply.

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"clvrmnky" wrote in message
news
Greetings,

[snip]


Finally, if I do get a starter transceiver, I either have to have one
with a built-in keyer, or supply a keyer myself. True?

True. Many new rigs have the keyer built in. Otherwise there are several
outboard keyers available -- older ones on e-bay -- look for a Curtis
Keyer. For a new one look at the K1EL Keyers at URL:
http://k1el.tripod.com/


A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

Ah of course " A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do."

Sorry over looked that question

Thanks Dee
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"Dee Flint" wrote in message
...

"Caveat Lector" wrote in message
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"clvrmnky" wrote in message
news
Greetings,

[snip]


Finally, if I do get a starter transceiver, I either have to have one
with a built-in keyer, or supply a keyer myself. True?

True. Many new rigs have the keyer built in. Otherwise there are several
outboard keyers available -- older ones on e-bay -- look for a Curtis
Keyer. For a new one look at the K1EL Keyers at URL:
http://k1el.tripod.com/


A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do.

Dee D. Flint, N8UZE

On 02/02/2005 11:13 AM, Caveat Lector wrote:
Ah of course " A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do."

Sorry over looked that question


Right, thanks. This is what I thought, but needed confirmation from
someone who knows. Right now I'm at a point where I got a pretty good
handle on amateur radio in the abstract, but there are some specifics
that I've had to dig around for on the beginner pages.

I'm just thinking ahead to when I'll be starting CW training; I've read
some screeds that suggest I just start with a keyer and a paddle (of
some sort) because that is where I'll end up anyway. This seems
reasonable, even if I have a rather romantic idea of hand-made dits and
dahs with a straight key.

It is a cheap alternative, though, and I'm thinking that learning good
(enough) rhythm and timing will serve me well in the future. On the
other hand, I'm a musician and computer programmer and appreciate how
proper equipment can minimize terrible damage to nerves and joints.

If only for this reason I'm leaning toward a single-lever paddle. The
minimal side-to-side motion /seems/ healthier, and I'm not sure I "get"
the iambic squeeze method. Hearing it described makes my thumb joint
hurt. I guess the notion is you can use double-lever paddle like a
single until you want to introduce the squeeze method. Like I said:
only thinking about the future.

I know this makes me sounds like a complete newbie and everyone has
heard this all before. Please forgive my mutterings. In my defence,
I'm quite excited about amateur radio, like I was when I was 10 years
old. My SO doesn't really understand why I'm doing this. I don't talk
on the phone very much, or use the internet to "chat" at all. She's
puzzled why I'd want to be a "ham" and talk to strangers in even
stranger code.

She has a point, I guess. Perhaps that's a subject for a future
posting. Thanks for listening.
--
Clever "I won't sign my postings '73' until I get my callsign" Monkey

Comments inserted
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"clvrmnky" wrote in message
...
On 02/02/2005 11:13 AM, Caveat Lector wrote:
Ah of course " A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do."

Sorry over looked that question


Right, thanks. This is what I thought, but needed confirmation from
someone who knows. Right now I'm at a point where I got a pretty good
handle on amateur radio in the abstract, but there are some specifics that
I've had to dig around for on the beginner pages.

I'm just thinking ahead to when I'll be starting CW training; I've read
some screeds that suggest I just start with a keyer and a paddle (of some
sort) because that is where I'll end up anyway. This seems reasonable,
even if I have a rather romantic idea of hand-made dits and dahs with a
straight key.

Many Hams have a straight key and paddles/keyer as well. It is fun to send
with a straight key, The ARRL sponsers Straight Key Night see URL:
http://www.arrl.org/contests/rules/2005/skn.html

Straight keys are so cheap -- see e-bay -- that you might start there and
get the paddle later.

It is a cheap alternative, though, and I'm thinking that learning good
(enough) rhythm and timing will serve me well in the future. On the other
hand, I'm a musician and computer programmer and appreciate how proper
equipment can minimize terrible damage to nerves and joints.

If only for this reason I'm leaning toward a single-lever paddle. The
minimal side-to-side motion /seems/ healthier, and I'm not sure I "get"
the iambic squeeze method. Hearing it described makes my thumb joint
hurt. I guess the notion is you can use double-lever paddle like a single
until you want to introduce the squeeze method. Like I said: only
thinking about the future.

IAMBIC keying is used by many -- see URL for details
http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/modeab.pdf

AND
http://www.morsecode.dutch.nl/iambic.PDF

I know this makes me sounds like a complete newbie and everyone has heard
this all before. Please forgive my mutterings. In my defence, I'm quite
excited about amateur radio, like I was when I was 10 years old. My SO
doesn't really understand why I'm doing this. I don't talk on the phone
very much, or use the internet to "chat" at all. She's puzzled why I'd
want to be a "ham" and talk to strangers in even stranger code.

It is an exciting hobby -- one can get into emergency service, work
satellites, try the digital modes like PSK31, talk with Hams world wide,
build and experiment, and much more.


She has a point, I guess. Perhaps that's a subject for a future posting.
Thanks for listening.
--
Clever "I won't sign my postings '73' until I get my callsign" Monkey

Perfectly OK to use 73 (Best Regards) might as well learn the linngo now.

Good Luck

clvrmnky wrote:

On 02/02/2005 11:13 AM, Caveat Lector wrote:

Ah of course " A straight key does not need a keyer. Paddles do."

Sorry over looked that question


Right, thanks. This is what I thought, but needed confirmation from
someone who knows. Right now I'm at a point where I got a pretty good
handle on amateur radio in the abstract, but there are some specifics
that I've had to dig around for on the beginner pages.

I'm just thinking ahead to when I'll be starting CW training; I've read
some screeds that suggest I just start with a keyer and a paddle (of
some sort) because that is where I'll end up anyway. This seems
reasonable, even if I have a rather romantic idea of hand-made dits and
dahs with a straight key.

It is a cheap alternative, though, and I'm thinking that learning good
(enough) rhythm and timing will serve me well in the future. On the
other hand, I'm a musician and computer programmer and appreciate how
proper equipment can minimize terrible damage to nerves and joints.

If only for this reason I'm leaning toward a single-lever paddle. The
minimal side-to-side motion /seems/ healthier, and I'm not sure I "get"
the iambic squeeze method. Hearing it described makes my thumb joint
hurt. I guess the notion is you can use double-lever paddle like a
single until you want to introduce the squeeze method. Like I said:
only thinking about the future.

The Iambic is harder to describe than to use! Don't let the description
scare you off. The Iambic is very easy on the wrist and hand after you
get used to it

Personally, I would suggest starting with a straight key. It will help
you at the start because you won't be thinking about "which paddle do I
hit now?"

But you can train even before you get any type of key. I recommend
NuMorse code training software. Pretty simple to use, has groups and QSO
training, and plenty of adjustments for Farnsworth spacing. (sending the
code at a higher text speed, but slower word speed)

It is available as shareware, and you can learn the code enough to pass
Element 1 without registering. I suggest registering your copy though.


I know this makes me sounds like a complete newbie and everyone has
heard this all before. Please forgive my mutterings. In my defence,
I'm quite excited about amateur radio, like I was when I was 10 years
old.

Welcome! Being a newbie is one of the most fun times of any
hobby/avocation. There is an enjoyment in putting together a station and
antenna that will allow you to talk across the world with the power of
an ordinary light bulb or less.


My SO doesn't really understand why I'm doing this. I don't talk
on the phone very much, or use the internet to "chat" at all. She's
puzzled why I'd want to be a "ham" and talk to strangers in even
stranger code.

One does not have to be a talker to be caught up in Amateur radio. It's
about so much more than just talking.

She has a point, I guess. Perhaps that's a subject for a future
posting. Thanks for listening.

Nah, she doesn't get it. My XYL used to question my hobby. I noted that
maybe I should give it up for hanging out at bars and carousing with
strange women. At least she knows where I am at night! 8^)

- Mike KB3EIA -

Be very careful which version of Morse Code you learn
from encyclopaedias!

A few years ago, a couple of guys turned up at Portishead
Radio to take the 12 WPM test and were failed when it came to
sending because they had learned from an old encyclopaedia
what was the old Yank landline code!

"clvrmnky" wrote in message
news
Since I'm a little unclear on the nomenclature (and trying to
re-remember all those acronyms) and how amateur radio and CW has changed
since I was a kid, I'm a little fuzzy on the best way to approach
physically keying Morse Code.

On 01/02/2005 2:52 PM, Airy R.Bean wrote:
Be very careful which version of Morse Code you learn
from encyclopaedias!

A few years ago, a couple of guys turned up at Portishead
Radio to take the 12 WPM test and were failed when it came to
sending because they had learned from an old encyclopaedia
what was the old Yank landline code!

Heh. I'm assuming that I'll need to learn International Morse.
American Morse isn't very common, is it?

I figure I'll learn to read by listening in on the beginner frequencies
out there. I've read some stern warnings about touching a key until I
can read relatively accurately. Well, I can pick out "CQ" as of yesterday.

I do have a bit of confusion about "Farnsworth" and friends, which I'm
slowly clearing up by reading some online refs.
--
clvrmnky

Heat up and unmunge email to reply.

clvrmnky wrote:

I figure I'll learn to read by listening in on the beginner frequencies
out there. I've read some stern warnings about touching a key until I
can read relatively accurately. Well, I can pick out "CQ" as of yesterday.

That's a start indeed.

Other letters have distinctive patterns that can be associated with
words or phrases: "Here comes the bride" for "Q", "Aladdin's lamp"
for "L", and so on.

You might want to build or buy a code practice oscillator. You'll want
a key eventually, of some sort, and a straight key + CPO will let you
develop the muscle-motion patterns for sending low-speed Morse.

After that, it's the old matter of how you get to Carnegie Hall:

"Practice, practice, practice".

I do have a bit of confusion about "Farnsworth" and friends, which I'm
slowly clearing up by reading some online refs.

I tend to think of Farnsworth-style Morse as fast letters in slow words.

--
Mike Andrews, KE5DMQ

Tired old sysadmin