Tim Wescott wrote:
ken scharf wrote:
Tim Wescott wrote:
On Thu, 04 Dec 2008 06:23:48 -0800, JIMMIE wrote:

After years of avoiding morse code I am finally getting into it. the
ideal of operating a very simple transmitter appeals to my junkbox/
trashcan construction mentality.
I am looking for a substitue for a 6L6 that has the plate brought out
the top. I was trying to build a little Glowbug transmitter but was
having all kinds of problems neutralizing the the thing. I think I
would
have better luck if I can separate the grid and plate circuits from
each
other. I am considering an 807 as a replacement Suggestions would be
appreciated.

Jimmie

Dunno if it's been mentioned yet -- 2E26. The 807 is _not_ a 6L6 in
a different envelope -- it's quit arguably the 6L6's big brother, but
it's got different ratings; it could probably be shoe-horned into a
circuit designed for the 6L6, but you'd be missing out on about 6dB
of final output power.

The 807 IS a 6L6G with a 5 pin base and the plate connected to the top.
The published ratings of the 6L6G look different than the 807 because of

-- snip --

The type 1614 is a metal tube based on the 6L6. It is a transmitting
version, and probably has additional shielding. Otherwise its internal
structure is the same as the 6L6 metal type.

How is the 6L6 metal type different internally from the 6L6G?

I've never xrayed or took a 6L6M apart. However the 6L6M would have
shorter leads and different inter-electrode capacitance specs due to the
metal envelope and the shorter leads. Also the metal envelope might
lead to a lower max plate voltage rating due to the danger of arc-over
to the envelope (which is connected to pin 1 for ground/shield). The
glass envelope version of the tube has more electrical insulation in
this regard. The 1614 is a transmitting version of the 6L6M. Other
than being spec'ed for ICAS operation and *maybe* having additional
internal shielding it's identical to the 6L6M.

On Thu, 04 Dec 2008 06:23:48 -0800, JIMMIE wrote:

After years of avoiding morse code I am finally getting into it. the
ideal of operating a very simple transmitter appeals to my junkbox/
trashcan construction mentality.
I am looking for a substitue for a 6L6 that has the plate brought out
the top. I was trying to build a little Glowbug transmitter but was
having all kinds of problems neutralizing the the thing. I think I would
have better luck if I can separate the grid and plate circuits from each
other. I am considering an 807 as a replacement Suggestions would be
appreciated.

Jimmie

Have you considered a 6L6 with careful shielding at the socket? IIRC the
pins that neighbor the plate pin would be at RF potential; you could put
a big, flat, high-value ceramic right between those socket pins to shield
the grid, and possible even extend the shield out if you were willing to
hand-make a cap from copper strip and Kapton tape.

It's kinda heroic measures to take on a tube that's more expensive now
than it's "high-tech" RF brethren, but if you just gotta have that metal-
tube look it may do the trick.

--
Tim Wescott
Control systems and communications consulting
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott
Elsevier/Newnes, http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

On Dec 5, 11:28*am, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Thu, 04 Dec 2008 06:23:48 -0800, JIMMIE wrote:
After years of avoiding morse code I am finally getting into it. the
ideal of operating a very simple transmitter appeals to my junkbox/
trashcan construction mentality.
I am looking for a substitue for a 6L6 that has the plate brought out
the top. I was trying to build a little Glowbug transmitter but was
having all kinds of problems neutralizing the the thing. I think I would
have better luck if I can separate the grid and plate circuits from each
other. I am considering an 807 as a replacement Suggestions would be
appreciated.

Jimmie

Have you considered a 6L6 with careful shielding at the socket? *IIRC the
pins that neighbor the plate pin would be at RF potential; you could put
a big, flat, high-value ceramic right between those socket pins to shield
the grid, and possible even extend the shield out if you were willing to
hand-make a cap from copper strip and Kapton tape.

It's kinda heroic measures to take on a tube that's more expensive now
than it's "high-tech" RF brethren, but if you just gotta have that metal-
tube look it may do the trick.

--
Tim Wescott
Control systems and communications consultinghttp://www.wescottdesign.com

Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott
Elsevier/Newnes,http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

I have a NOS 6DQ6 I can use in place of the 6L6s. I think they will
work. the biggest problem will be relocating the plate circuit. I will
have to add a front panel to my "fool killer" to hold the tuning
caps.


Jimmie

On Dec 5, 11:28*am, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Thu, 04 Dec 2008 06:23:48 -0800, JIMMIE wrote:
After years of avoiding morse code I am finally getting into it. the
ideal of operating a very simple transmitter appeals to my junkbox/
trashcan construction mentality.
I am looking for a substitue for a 6L6 that has the plate brought out
the top. I was trying to build a little Glowbug transmitter but was
having all kinds of problems neutralizing the the thing. I think I would
have better luck if I can separate the grid and plate circuits from each
other. I am considering an 807 as a replacement Suggestions would be
appreciated.

Jimmie

Have you considered a 6L6 with careful shielding at the socket? *IIRC the
pins that neighbor the plate pin would be at RF potential; you could put
a big, flat, high-value ceramic right between those socket pins to shield
the grid, and possible even extend the shield out if you were willing to
hand-make a cap from copper strip and Kapton tape.

It's kinda heroic measures to take on a tube that's more expensive now
than it's "high-tech" RF brethren, but if you just gotta have that metal-
tube look it may do the trick.

--
Tim Wescott
Control systems and communications consultinghttp://www.wescottdesign.com

Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott
Elsevier/Newnes,http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Thanks Tim, I rplaced the 6L6 with a 6DQ6 and all is right with the
world on this end. Im putting out about 40 watts on 80M.
My next project may be building a little super rengerative receiver.
Im trying to see just how little I can get by with and still have a
productive station.

Jimmie

"JIMMIE" wrote in message
...
..
My next project may be building a little super rengerative receiver.

You mean a regenerative receiver, surely?

On Dec 8, 5:15*am, "Theo" wrote:
"JIMMIE" wrote in message

...
.
My next project may be building a little super rengerative receiver.

You mean a regenerative receiver, surely?

Yes one should not type and carry on a conversation with thier wife
at the same time.

Jimmie

In article
,
JIMMIE wrote:

I am considering an 807 as a replacement

Jimmie-

Just how simple will this transmitter be? My first novice transmitter
was built from an ARRL publication back in the 50s. The specification
was for a single 6V6, used as a crystal oscillator with output coupled
to the antenna.

I found I could get more power with a 6L6 plugged into the same socket.
Along the way to getting more power, I found that crystal current would
increase to the point where the crystal would fracture!

If you use a 807 or 1625, I hope you will have a lower power oscillator
driving it. Something like a 6AG7 would make a nice crystal oscillator,
and should have sufficient output to drive an 807.

73,
Fred
K4DII

Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article
,
JIMMIE wrote:

I am considering an 807 as a replacement

Jimmie-

Just how simple will this transmitter be? My first novice transmitter
was built from an ARRL publication back in the 50s. The specification
was for a single 6V6, used as a crystal oscillator with output coupled
to the antenna.

I found I could get more power with a 6L6 plugged into the same socket.
Along the way to getting more power, I found that crystal current would
increase to the point where the crystal would fracture!

If you use a 807 or 1625, I hope you will have a lower power oscillator
driving it. Something like a 6AG7 would make a nice crystal oscillator,
and should have sufficient output to drive an 807.

73,
Fred
K4DII
The 6AG7 - 807 combo is a classic. E. F. Johnson sold a 50 Watt Novice
transmitter in the '50's with this tube line up (also a 5R4GY rectifier
IIRC). Other tubes that have been used as the oscillator/driver were
the 6CL6, 12BY7, 6GK6, and 5763.

On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 16:41:00 -0500, ken scharf
wrote:

Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article
,
JIMMIE wrote:

I am considering an 807 as a replacement

Jimmie-

Just how simple will this transmitter be? My first novice transmitter
was built from an ARRL publication back in the 50s. The specification
was for a single 6V6, used as a crystal oscillator with output coupled
to the antenna.

I found I could get more power with a 6L6 plugged into the same socket.
Along the way to getting more power, I found that crystal current would
increase to the point where the crystal would fracture!

If you use a 807 or 1625, I hope you will have a lower power oscillator
driving it. Something like a 6AG7 would make a nice crystal oscillator,
and should have sufficient output to drive an 807.

73,
Fred
K4DII
The 6AG7 - 807 combo is a classic. E. F. Johnson sold a 50 Watt Novice
transmitter in the '50's with this tube line up (also a 5R4GY rectifier
IIRC). Other tubes that have been used as the oscillator/driver were
the 6CL6, 12BY7, 6GK6, and 5763.

That would be the Johnson Viking Adventurer. I built one in 1955 from
a kit. I later replaced the 807 with a 6146 - didn't make much
difference, actually.

Bruce W0BF

"Bruce W. Ellis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 Dec 2008 16:41:00 -0500, ken scharf
wrote:

Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article
,
JIMMIE wrote:

I am considering an 807 as a replacement

Jimmie-

Just how simple will this transmitter be? My first novice transmitter
was built from an ARRL publication back in the 50s. The specification
was for a single 6V6, used as a crystal oscillator with output coupled
to the antenna.

I found I could get more power with a 6L6 plugged into the same socket.
Along the way to getting more power, I found that crystal current would
increase to the point where the crystal would fracture!

If you use a 807 or 1625, I hope you will have a lower power oscillator
driving it. Something like a 6AG7 would make a nice crystal
oscillator,
and should have sufficient output to drive an 807.

73,
Fred
K4DII
The 6AG7 - 807 combo is a classic. E. F. Johnson sold a 50 Watt Novice
transmitter in the '50's with this tube line up (also a 5R4GY rectifier
IIRC). Other tubes that have been used as the oscillator/driver were
the 6CL6, 12BY7, 6GK6, and 5763.

That would be the Johnson Viking Adventurer. I built one in 1955 from
a kit. I later replaced the 807 with a 6146 - didn't make much
difference, actually.

Bruce W0BF


Yep, that's what I started out with. Bought my Adventurer used back in 1964
along with an HQ-110c.
When I got my General ticket I got a nice drifty Knight Kit VFO.

My antenna relay was taken from an old pinball machine!

My best contact was Ascension Island . Africa on a 40 meter CW..

I used a
wire vertical...
that was not terribly vertical G