Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hello all,
I am trying to put a co-ax line through the wall of my shack. I purchased two chassis mount N-type connectors a while ago, one for inside and one for outside the shack. As you will know these connectors have a solderable centre pin for the co-ax inner conductor and seem to rely on the chassis for the outer connection. My question is if I use a metal enclosure to mount these N connectors how do I connect the centre pins together. Do I use co-ax with the braid disconnected at both ends, or one end, or do I use wire, or just put the chassis mount N-types to one side and buy some in-line N-types? I am not too worried about the mechanics of putting the enclosure on the wall. Any help would be much appreciated. 73 JOHN |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
John W jrw wrote:
Hello all, I am trying to put a co-ax line through the wall of my shack. I purchased two chassis mount N-type connectors a while ago, one for inside and one for outside the shack. As you will know these connectors have a solderable centre pin for the co-ax inner conductor and seem to rely on the chassis for the outer connection. My question is if I use a metal enclosure to mount these N connectors how do I connect the centre pins together. Do I use co-ax with the braid disconnected at both ends, or one end, or do I use wire, or just put the chassis mount N-types to one side and buy some in-line N-types? I am not too worried about the mechanics of putting the enclosure on the wall. Any help would be much appreciated. You don't mention what frequency you are operating on; that makes quite a bit of difference. Also what the distance between the two connectors is. Anything that is small compared to the wavelength of the signal you are trying to transfer is not so critical. So on 3.5 MHz you may be able to use a simple wire, while on 3.5 GHz is is really important to maintain coaxiality. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article ,
"John W" wrote: Hello all, I am trying to put a co-ax line through the wall of my shack. I purchased two chassis mount N-type connectors a while ago, one for inside and one for outside the shack. As you will know these connectors have a solderable centre pin for the co-ax inner conductor and seem to rely on the chassis for the outer connection. My question is if I use a metal enclosure to mount these N connectors how do I connect the centre pins together. Do I use co-ax with the braid disconnected at both ends, or one end, or do I use wire, or just put the chassis mount N-types to one side and buy some in-line N-types? I am not too worried about the mechanics of putting the enclosure on the wall. Any help would be much appreciated. 73 JOHN They make a flanged coax connector for RG type cable. You can put two of those back to back with enough coax to get you thru the wall. OR, You can just have a 3" Pipe Nipple with screw on Deck Plates made long enough to pass thru the wall, and then when you have run all your coax lines thru it, fill the voids with spray foam..... done those, many times.. -- Bruce in Alaska add path before the @ for email |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article ,
"John W" wrote: I am trying to put a co-ax line through the wall of my shack. I purchased two chassis mount N-type connectors a while ago, one for inside and one for outside the shack. As you will know these connectors have a solderable centre pin for the co-ax inner conductor and seem to rely on the chassis for the outer connection. John- The chassis mount N connectors should come with a "back shell" that allows the center pin of Co-ax to be soldered, and the shield to be soldered to the shell. If transmitting, you need to maintain the shield to prevent your signal from being leaked from the unshielded wire. The unshielded wire will act as both a loop antenna and an inductive reactance in series with the center conductor. As others suggested, feeding the Co-Ax through the wall may be the best approach. There is a plastic tube available for doing that. It used to be sold by Radio Shack as their model 15-1200A "Wall Feed-Through Tube", but I can't find it at their web site. Another approach is an MFJ-4602 "Window Antenna feedthru panel". It has three Co-ax plus balanced, single wire and ground feedthroughs. The panel is meant to be mounted on a window sill with the window closed over it. Fred K4DII |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thank you for your comments so far folks.
J Todd and Philo, putting the cable straight through the wall omitting the two connectors is certainly worth me considering. Rob, to answer your questions I will mainly be using frequencies up to 146MHz but with the hope of going into the low microwave bands in the future. I will be able to put the connectors back to back so their centre conductors can be soldered directly to each other. This would mean that the connector bodies are about 10mm apart. Thanks again, JOHN |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 12/12/2010 02:17 PM, John W wrote:
Thank you for your comments so far folks. J Todd and Philo, putting the cable straight through the wall omitting the two connectors is certainly worth me considering. Rob, to answer your questions I will mainly be using frequencies up to 146MHz but with the hope of going into the low microwave bands in the future. I will be able to put the connectors back to back so their centre conductors can be soldered directly to each other. This would mean that the connector bodies are about 10mm apart. Thanks again, JOHN Considering you will be 146 mhz and microwave... then I'd definably not use any junction at all... cable straight through the wall |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Dec 13, 6:17*am, "John W"
wrote: Thank you for your comments so far folks. J Todd and Philo, putting the cable straight through the wall omitting the two connectors is certainly worth me considering. Rob, to answer your questions I will mainly be using frequencies up to 146MHz but with the hope of going into the low microwave bands in the future. *I will be able to put the connectors back to back so their centre conductors can be soldered directly to each other. *This would mean that the connector bodies are about 10mm apart. Could you cut a small piece of copper pipe of the right diameter in half then solder it around that centre pin? Simulating a small piece of hardline coax? |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
FA: Elecraft K2 Twin (KPA100 & KAT100 in EC2 Enclosure) | Equipment | |||
FA: Elecraft K2 Twin (KPA100 & KAT100 in EC2 Enclosure) | Swap | |||
FA: Elecraft K2 Twin (KPA100 & KAT100 in EC2 Enclosure) | Equipment | |||
FA: Elecraft K2 Twin (KPA100 & KAT100 in EC2 Enclosure) | Equipment | |||
FA: Elecraft K2 Twin (KPA100 & KAT100 in EC2 Enclosure) | Swap |