Joe McElvenney wrote:

Hi,

You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual
(TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the
spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a
BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It
is just under a 1/10" across the flutes.

I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to
tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a
good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the
governorship of California has since been able to move them.


Cheers - Joe


I put a drop of "Breakfree" in the hole and wait a couple days to
remove tight screws.
--


Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Hi,

You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual
(TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the
spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a
BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It
is just under a 1/10" across the flutes.

I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to
tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a
good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the
governorship of California has since been able to move them.


Cheers - Joe

Dick wrote:
I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws
securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest
where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that
can be modified to do the job ??
Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a
clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess
that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head
but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than
3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia
steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand
filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for
help !!
My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s -
There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at
least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh
paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century
than I have.
Thanks

It has been many years since I had a BC-221, but I seem to think that a
Bristol wrench was needed to remove the knobs. No bets, however.

Bob, W6NBI

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick
wrote:

I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws
securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest
where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that
can be modified to do the job ??
Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a
clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess
that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head
but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than
3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia
steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand
filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for
help !!
My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s -
There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at
least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh
paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century
than I have.
Thanks
Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I
won't bet on it though.
hth Mike W, G8NXD

Mike W wrote:

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick
wrote:

I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws
securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest
where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that
can be modified to do the job ??
Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a
clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess
that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head
but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than
3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia
steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand
filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for
help !!
My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s -
There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at
least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh
paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century
than I have.
Thanks
Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I
won't bet on it though.
hth Mike W, G8NXD

I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would
probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of
BC221
and the newer version with a CRT.

Bill K7NOM

You might check inside the instrument. A Bristol wrench was often
included in military gear under a clip someplace.

I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall
their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. It would
probably take an unusually long one, and if it didn't fit well there'd
be a danger of chewing the screw so it'd never come out. Might be worth
investigating, though.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Bill Janssen wrote:

I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would
probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of
BC221
and the newer version with a CRT.

Bill K7NOM

Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
....
I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall
their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers.
....
:-) Yep, indeed. In fact, my older daughter bought a new faceplate
for my younger daughter's cell phone as a present, only it turned out
to be a whole new case (clear plastic). Yours Truly got to replace
the case, which was held in with #6 Torx. I was happy to find that
one of the Bristol spline wrenches from an old GC set fit just fine,
as my Torx drivers go down only to #8 here at home. So you MAY find
that a #6 or #8 or #10 Torx will work in your BC221. Mebbe I'll go
try it on my LM (Navy equivalent of the BC221) and report back.

Cheers,
Tom

Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
....
I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall
their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers.
....
:-) Yep, indeed. In fact, my older daughter bought a new faceplate
for my younger daughter's cell phone as a present, only it turned out
to be a whole new case (clear plastic). Yours Truly got to replace
the case, which was held in with #6 Torx. I was happy to find that
one of the Bristol spline wrenches from an old GC set fit just fine,
as my Torx drivers go down only to #8 here at home. So you MAY find
that a #6 or #8 or #10 Torx will work in your BC221. Mebbe I'll go
try it on my LM (Navy equivalent of the BC221) and report back.

Cheers,
Tom

You might check inside the instrument. A Bristol wrench was often
included in military gear under a clip someplace.

I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall
their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. It would
probably take an unusually long one, and if it didn't fit well there'd
be a danger of chewing the screw so it'd never come out. Might be worth
investigating, though.

Roy Lewallen, W7EL

Bill Janssen wrote:

I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would
probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of
BC221
and the newer version with a CRT.

Bill K7NOM

Bill Janssen wrote: I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here
but it would

probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of
BC221
and the newer version with a CRT.

Bill K7NOM

That CRT comment was about as wrong as can be.
The "CRT" was a magnifier glass to read the film strip dial.

Should have looked at the unit before commenting.

Bill K7NOM