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Refurbishing BC221
I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws
securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
Dick wrote:
I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks It has been many years since I had a BC-221, but I seem to think that a Bristol wrench was needed to remove the knobs. No bets, however. Bob, W6NBI |
Dick wrote:
I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks It has been many years since I had a BC-221, but I seem to think that a Bristol wrench was needed to remove the knobs. No bets, however. Bob, W6NBI |
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick
wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I won't bet on it though. hth Mike W, G8NXD |
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick
wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I won't bet on it though. hth Mike W, G8NXD |
Hi,
You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual (TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Cheers - Joe |
Hi,
You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual (TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Cheers - Joe |
I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. As one who converted a lot of WWII surplus gear for Amateur Radio use, I often hoped the guy who invented Glyptol got sealed in his coffin with the stuff. Doug Moore |
I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. As one who converted a lot of WWII surplus gear for Amateur Radio use, I often hoped the guy who invented Glyptol got sealed in his coffin with the stuff. Doug Moore |
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Correction, that should have been WEINER not WIENER!
Malcolm "Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
Correction, that should have been WEINER not WIENER!
Malcolm "Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual
(TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. I have seen the wrenches on e-bay from time to time. To remove the screws after ordering a bowflex machine and working out with it for 6 months, heat them and the "glue" will release and you will be able to turn them. |
You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual
(TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. I have seen the wrenches on e-bay from time to time. To remove the screws after ordering a bowflex machine and working out with it for 6 months, heat them and the "glue" will release and you will be able to turn them. |
Mike W wrote:
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I won't bet on it though. hth Mike W, G8NXD I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM |
Mike W wrote:
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks Dick, I think they are "Allen Key" or "Hex Key" grub screws but I won't bet on it though. hth Mike W, G8NXD I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM |
You might check inside the instrument. A Bristol wrench was often
included in military gear under a clip someplace. I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. It would probably take an unusually long one, and if it didn't fit well there'd be a danger of chewing the screw so it'd never come out. Might be worth investigating, though. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bill Janssen wrote: I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM |
You might check inside the instrument. A Bristol wrench was often
included in military gear under a clip someplace. I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. It would probably take an unusually long one, and if it didn't fit well there'd be a danger of chewing the screw so it'd never come out. Might be worth investigating, though. Roy Lewallen, W7EL Bill Janssen wrote: I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM |
Joe McElvenney wrote:
Hi, You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual (TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Cheers - Joe I put a drop of "Breakfree" in the hole and wait a couple days to remove tight screws. -- Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Joe McElvenney wrote:
Hi, You are correct Bob, according to the SCR-221 technical manual (TM-11-300) there should be two Bristol wrenches (#6 & #8) in the spares kit. I have just tried the one I have on an old wreck of a BC221-T and it fits but don't know whether it is a #6 or a #8. It is just under a 1/10" across the flutes. I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Cheers - Joe I put a drop of "Breakfree" in the hole and wait a couple days to remove tight screws. -- Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
.... I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. .... :-) Yep, indeed. In fact, my older daughter bought a new faceplate for my younger daughter's cell phone as a present, only it turned out to be a whole new case (clear plastic). Yours Truly got to replace the case, which was held in with #6 Torx. I was happy to find that one of the Bristol spline wrenches from an old GC set fit just fine, as my Torx drivers go down only to #8 here at home. So you MAY find that a #6 or #8 or #10 Torx will work in your BC221. Mebbe I'll go try it on my LM (Navy equivalent of the BC221) and report back. Cheers, Tom |
Roy Lewallen wrote in message ...
.... I don't have a Bristol wrench for comparison any more, but I recall their cross sectional shape as resembling modern Torx drivers. .... :-) Yep, indeed. In fact, my older daughter bought a new faceplate for my younger daughter's cell phone as a present, only it turned out to be a whole new case (clear plastic). Yours Truly got to replace the case, which was held in with #6 Torx. I was happy to find that one of the Bristol spline wrenches from an old GC set fit just fine, as my Torx drivers go down only to #8 here at home. So you MAY find that a #6 or #8 or #10 Torx will work in your BC221. Mebbe I'll go try it on my LM (Navy equivalent of the BC221) and report back. Cheers, Tom |
"Bibby" wrote in message news:z3c0b.183660$YN5.135802@sccrnsc01... Dick, as others have said, these probably need Bristol wrenches. I bought some a few months back from Good luck, Malcolm, W1/GW3NJY Some Bristol wrenches here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=46 73 |
"Bibby" wrote in message news:z3c0b.183660$YN5.135802@sccrnsc01... Dick, as others have said, these probably need Bristol wrenches. I bought some a few months back from Good luck, Malcolm, W1/GW3NJY Some Bristol wrenches here http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ategory=46 73 |
Bill Janssen wrote: I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here
but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM That CRT comment was about as wrong as can be. The "CRT" was a magnifier glass to read the film strip dial. Should have looked at the unit before commenting. Bill K7NOM |
Bill Janssen wrote: I vote for the Bristol answer. I think I have a couple here
but it would probably take a "crime scene" investigation to find them. I have a couple of BC221 and the newer version with a CRT. Bill K7NOM That CRT comment was about as wrong as can be. The "CRT" was a magnifier glass to read the film strip dial. Should have looked at the unit before commenting. Bill K7NOM |
I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Many, MANY years ago I wanted to remove the knobs from several pieces of equipment (BC-610 tuning units vaguely comes to mind), and I recall that I stripped an average of one properly-sized Allen wrench per knob removed. Fortunately, the town where I was living at the time (Fort Collins, CO) had a "war surplus" store, and -- even more fortunate for me -- they had bins AND BINS of Allen wrenches of the proper size for a dime apiece! Needless to say, I bought a lot of them! --Myron. -- Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTX). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
I believe that during WWII there was a specially employed
lady, complete with tattoos presumably, whose task it was to tighten the set-screws on all military equipment. She did such a good job that nobody except a certain candidate for the governorship of California has since been able to move them. Many, MANY years ago I wanted to remove the knobs from several pieces of equipment (BC-610 tuning units vaguely comes to mind), and I recall that I stripped an average of one properly-sized Allen wrench per knob removed. Fortunately, the town where I was living at the time (Fort Collins, CO) had a "war surplus" store, and -- even more fortunate for me -- they had bins AND BINS of Allen wrenches of the proper size for a dime apiece! Needless to say, I bought a lot of them! --Myron. -- Five boxes preserve our freedoms: soap, ballot, witness, jury, and cartridge PhD EE (retired). "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTX). W0PBV. (785) 539-4448 NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor (Home Firearm Safety, Rifle, Pistol) |
"Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL You need Bristol wrenches or Bristol keys or whatever Bristol calls them. They come in 4 or 6 point form. The 6 point ones look very much like Torx head screws. You need the 4 point type. I got mine from McMaster Carr: mcmaster.com I don't know if Bristol wrenches are easily available in the UK. McMaster's website seems to be down right now, but I have to figure they do international orders. Frank Dresser |
"Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL You need Bristol wrenches or Bristol keys or whatever Bristol calls them. They come in 4 or 6 point form. The 6 point ones look very much like Torx head screws. You need the 4 point type. I got mine from McMaster Carr: mcmaster.com I don't know if Bristol wrenches are easily available in the UK. McMaster's website seems to be down right now, but I have to figure they do international orders. Frank Dresser |
"W7TI" wrote in message ... No need to toss a "stripped" Allen wrench. Just grind off the stripped part and it's good as new. Go slow while grinding so you don't overheat it or you'll ruin the temper. Dunk it in water every few seconds. While I haven't tried this on Bristol wrenches, it would probably fix them too. As a side note, often when it seems that the wrench is stripped, what really happens is the set screw develops a crack which widens it out and makes it appear like the wrench is stripped. When this happens, you're in deep doo-doo. You might also be able to use one of those reverse-threaded screw extractors if you can find one small enough. If not, drill the set screw out very carefully, and if you're lucky, no harm will be done to the threads in the knob. If the drill does gouge out the threads, you may be able to re-thread it for the next larger size set screw. Also, a metric or Torx wrench might get enough bite in the damaged socket head screw. If you do go for the drill, try to find a bit with a left hand twist. If it locks in the set screw, it might well spin it out. Frank Dresser The best approach for old military equipment though, is to apply penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so. The more valuable the equipment, the more days you should let it sit. With any luck, the set screw will come right out. And use REAL penetrating oil, not just WD-40 or something similar. -- 73, Bill W7TI |
"W7TI" wrote in message ... No need to toss a "stripped" Allen wrench. Just grind off the stripped part and it's good as new. Go slow while grinding so you don't overheat it or you'll ruin the temper. Dunk it in water every few seconds. While I haven't tried this on Bristol wrenches, it would probably fix them too. As a side note, often when it seems that the wrench is stripped, what really happens is the set screw develops a crack which widens it out and makes it appear like the wrench is stripped. When this happens, you're in deep doo-doo. You might also be able to use one of those reverse-threaded screw extractors if you can find one small enough. If not, drill the set screw out very carefully, and if you're lucky, no harm will be done to the threads in the knob. If the drill does gouge out the threads, you may be able to re-thread it for the next larger size set screw. Also, a metric or Torx wrench might get enough bite in the damaged socket head screw. If you do go for the drill, try to find a bit with a left hand twist. If it locks in the set screw, it might well spin it out. Frank Dresser The best approach for old military equipment though, is to apply penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or so. The more valuable the equipment, the more days you should let it sit. With any luck, the set screw will come right out. And use REAL penetrating oil, not just WD-40 or something similar. -- 73, Bill W7TI |
Dick, you got a lot of helpful feedback on your question - yet no response
from you. Don't you think a simple "thank you" would be in order? Malcolm "Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
Dick, you got a lot of helpful feedback on your question - yet no response
from you. Don't you think a simple "thank you" would be in order? Malcolm "Dick" wrote in message ... I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
Dick, there's a BC221 on Ebay UK's Ham Radio list, selling later
today, current;y the bid is 12.50 UKP if you're interested. Not mine I hasten to add. atb Mike W -- On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
Dick, there's a BC221 on Ebay UK's Ham Radio list, selling later
today, current;y the bid is 12.50 UKP if you're interested. Not mine I hasten to add. atb Mike W -- On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:00:04 +0100, Dick wrote: I'm trying to get a hold of a tool that will undo grub screws securing the front panel knobs on my venerable BC221, can anyone suggest where I can get a hold of one, a modern equivalent and/or something that can be modified to do the job ?? Although all BC221s were provided with the tool (stored in a clip beside the spare valves) I've never seen one and can only guess that it must be something like a very small Phillips screwdriver head but with a parallel rather than tapered tip. It must also be less than 3/32" dia 'cos I've just tried to make one by hand out of 3/32" dia steel rod and that was too big, don't think my eyesight is up to hand filing the cruciform tip in any smaller dia rod, hence a request for help !! My BC221 is still furkling along after 63+ years (& only c/s - There, I've said it !!) out of calibration) but I think I should at least try & smarten up the case with a good clean and a bit of fresh paint. Who knows, it's probably got more chance of making the century than I have. Thanks -- Dick GM0MNL |
In message YGP3b.227320$Oz4.62141@rwcrnsc54, Bibby
writes Dick, you got a lot of helpful feedback on your question - yet no response from you. Don't you think a simple "thank you" would be in order? Malcolm Yes, my fault & I should have got back to thank everyone for their input to my BC221 query sooner than this. I've now got a set of small Bristol wrenches on order from the US and I'll post an up date once they arrive & I've had a chance to try & remove the grub screws (carefully). Once again, thanks for all the suggestions & loan offers. -- Dick GM0MNL |
In message YGP3b.227320$Oz4.62141@rwcrnsc54, Bibby
writes Dick, you got a lot of helpful feedback on your question - yet no response from you. Don't you think a simple "thank you" would be in order? Malcolm Yes, my fault & I should have got back to thank everyone for their input to my BC221 query sooner than this. I've now got a set of small Bristol wrenches on order from the US and I'll post an up date once they arrive & I've had a chance to try & remove the grub screws (carefully). Once again, thanks for all the suggestions & loan offers. -- Dick GM0MNL |
"Bibby" wrote in message news:YGP3b.227320$Oz4.62141@rwcrnsc54...
Dick, you got a lot of helpful feedback on your question - yet no response from you. Don't you think a simple "thank you" would be in order? I'm glad to see that others feel the same way I do about that. I often respond to questions, and end up with no idea if my response was helpful or not. "Thank yous" are nice, but feedback even without a thank-you would also be welcome, just to know that we're not talking into the wind. Also, an "I solved the problem (thus-and-such way)" is helpful: we then know we don't have to write any more, and maybe we learn another way to solve such a problem, or place to get such parts. Sometimes the discussion is worthwhile even without the OP's response, but I'd always like to see _something_ back from the OP. Welcome to bash me unmercifully if I fail to follow up like that on any question I post! Cheers, Tom |
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